Pete
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« Reply #1 on: January 21, 2018, 11:25:17 AM » |
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Use electrical/chemical method to turn the rust left in the tank to black oxide. Black oxide does not allow the rust to restart.
Battery charger, pool chemical and 12 to 24 hours, search the archives for the method.
Here is one
Jason’s de-rusting method
Hi all, I've gotten a few requests for the magical gas tank derusting process. Wonder if it deserves space in the faq?
You need 1 rusty gas tank 1 small container of sodium carbonate, chemical compound, Na2CO3 pool/spa supplies PH+ 1 4amp or better battery charger 1 average bolt approx 3/8 x 1.5 1 short length of copper wire, ~ 12 awg 1 qt naptha 1 qt denatured alcohol
Empty out all the gas, take out the petcock and remove the fuel cap. Remove any old fuel residue and varnish with a good rinse of naptha, make it petroleum free and then drain / dry. using a sock with a handful of small nuts/washers etc, add a little water and shake this all around inside the gas tank to loosen the big chunks, rinse with clear water scrub well. In a decent pail (not oil drain bucket), dissolve some of the sodium carbonate in water, 1/3 cup for say a magna, 1/2 cup for a sabre in a gallon of clear water, when its dissolved all the way stir it a bit more!
Seal up all but the filler cap opening on the top, pour in the well stirred mix using a funnel if you've had too much coffee. Fill the tank right to the top with water, set the tank so that the cap opening is the highest part, burp out as much air as possible and keep the tank full for the process.
Wrap a half dozen or so turns of the wire around the bolt to hold it secure, twist it tight so the bolt won't fall off. Attach the (-) lead of the batt charger to the outer shell of the tank, attach the (+) to the other end of the copper wire, suspend the bolt in the solution and turn on the battery charger to a fairly high rate, an amp or two flowing is good, then wait. Time to process is ~48 hours and it won't overdo itself.
The bolt gets nasty after a day, I cleaned mine now and again to remove the crud but not sure it helps. After a couple days, remove the leads, discard the bolt, save the wire, drain and rinse the tank well, drag out that sock and slosh it all around to remove any loose material. Rinse a few more times until the rinse water seems clean, shake well and then use a bit of the alcohol to fetch out the rest of the water.
Once the tank is dry, you're all set to put it back into service. More coating not required
Science, maybe remove this junk The process by which rust forms is electrochemical in nature so this method employs a reverse current flow in an alkaline bath at a higher voltage to reverse the process at a quicker rate. There are actually two forms of rust: iron III oxide or red oxide (Fe2O3) and iron II, III oxide or black oxide (Fe3O4)(FeO). Black oxide is a smaller molecule. The electrolytic process converts red rust to black rust and in the process the black rust becomes weakly bonded to the base metal. The black rust that takes the place of the red rust can be easily wiped, washed, or brushed off leaving rust free base metal. Any pitting that has occurred will remain, this method will not repair damage, but the pits will be rust free.
This is an alkali process and not acid, so you don't have a lot of pits in the steel filled with stray hydrogen ions which would just love to start rusting immediately instead of a much less active coating of black oxide.
-Jason
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