drilling out jets

[deez]

H :uglystupid2:as anyone tried the old hotrodders trick of drilling out their jets to the next size? I know the 35 slow jets can be opened up to 38/39 by using a #60 drill bit in a pin vise (in theory) has anyone tried it? I know people in the hotrod world do it all the time sucessfully. I priced the jets, and while not excessive, they wanted almost as much to "handle and ship" I mean come on, stick then in a parcel post bag at the post office for all of $5.00 and get it on the road! I was quoted $20 shipping from one source!! 

[Steve K (IA)]

 I have never been into the insides of the Valk carbs, but will assume they are like the carbs on other Honda MC's and the jets are brass. 
 If I was to try it, I'd use a reamer instead of a drill.  Unless you can knock the rake off the drill, it will only catch and try and pull it's self through.  It might ruin the jet.

[R J]

Steve, it is a little HAND manuvered drill.    Yaa turn it with your finger tips......

Stop by the house sometime and I'll show ya one I used to use years ago when drag racing.

This was the way to cheat legally..   LOL........

[DFragn]

H :uglystupid2:as anyone tried the old hotrodders trick of drilling out their jets to the next size? I know the 35 slow jets can be opened up to 38/39 by using a #60 drill bit in a pin vise (in theory) has anyone tried it? I know people in the hotrod world do it all the time sucessfully. I priced the jets, and while not excessive, they wanted almost as much to "handle and ship" I mean come on, stick then in a parcel post bag at the post office for all of $5.00 and get it on the road! I was quoted $20 shipping from one source!!  

I realize some internet orders can have exorbitant shipping charges, but in most cases they're very fair & well worth it compared to my time and gas. With the ease of internet shopping so many folks forget what actual costs used to be to spend an afternoon driving around looking for a special purchase and that was while we were  "letting our fingers do the walking". Even today your saving.

I don't recall who I ordered my 38's from,  but shipping was about $7.00.
It'll cost you $20.00 via PayPal to imonlykidding@ahoo.com for me to look it up!  

C'mon people. This is laughable. Just decide who from & order 'em. You'll spend more time dinking around trying to open up your stock jets and add to which if you leave an internal scratch or groove you've puck'd up their flow. Brass is pretty darn soft ya'll know.

[dreamaker]

I got mine from these guys and shipping is $7.99 for $20 to $99 purchase , I also bought two sets one for backup.

Dan

http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Chaparral/product_family.asp?family%5Fid=11180&gift=False&mscssid=6124004559EA4D25A8406AB142577D17

[John Schmidt]

Total cost was in the mid-$30 range including shipping. The first link is their home page, the second link is the specific page where the jets are located.

http://www.sudco.com/
http://www.sudco.com/vol33/138.pdf

[dreamaker]

Total cost was in the mid-$30 range including shipping. The first link is their home page, the second link is the specific page where the jets are located.

http://www.sudco.com/
http://www.sudco.com/vol33/138.pdf

If you goto Chaparral it is a buck cheaper each for the same jet.

Dan

[Ricky-D]

Sure, I've drilled out jets with the little wire drills with no ill affects. That's how the manufacturers make em. Drill them out!

If you can find some fine wire reamers that would be even better.

I think to assume that the stock manufacturers jets are all identical (in the same size) is folly. Has no one ever heard of manufacturing tolerances?   

Reaming jets is absolutely the best way to assure uniformity among the jets.  Easing the hole edges is the cream, as an extra step.

***

[R J]

Damn, I hate to admit it but I'm totally in agreement with Ricky-D.

Way back in the mid 50's, Chevrolet came out with a Duntov cam.

Bought one, installed it and car ran crappy.

Had a buddy who worked for a cam grinder in California.

Had him regrind the cam to Duntov factory spec's.

Old cam ran lumpy as we called it back then.

Put the regrind in and it ran smoother than a stock cam. 

Ran like a stripped arse ape.  I was a drag racer and got tore down several times, they never did find this illegal cam.   When they mic'ed it, it was within stock figures, only very consistent in those figures.

[Steve K (IA)]

Steve, it is a little HAND manuvered drill.    Yaa turn it with your finger tips......

Stop by the house sometime and I'll show ya one I used to use years ago when drag racing.

This was the way to cheat legally..   LOL........

RJ,
Stop trying to dumb f*cker me.   You think I don't know what a pin vise is?  I have two (different sizes) in one of my toolboxes.  I was a machinist and toolmaker for longer than I can remember....Remember?
 
1)  A drill will not cut a perfect hole.  

2)  If you want a perfectly symmetrical hole, you need to use a boring bar, but in this case a reamer will work.
 
3)  Like was said below,  you use a drill and you will likely put a nick in the hole making the jet useless.   The ONLY way to be sure the holes are a consistent size is to ream them.

4)  Also mentioned...Manufacturing tolerances.  Yes, there are manufacturing tolerances on just about everything, there has to be.  But a carb jet?  A hole that small? ???  I've never made jets before, but I imagine the tolerance is no more than +/-  .0001. 

5)  Buy a new set of jets and put the stock ones away in case you want to go back.

[R J]

 

RJ,
Stop trying to dumb f*cker me.  
 

Didn't know and realize I was, in your eyes, but we will drop the subject here.

WOW MOM, are we ouchy.

I know you were a machinist.    I said 'were' due to you being unemployed at present.


Didn't know you had jury rigged jets.............    My error.