Starter button service

[hoosier jaybird]

I would like to service the starter button on my I/S. Looking at the instructions in shop talk it should be relatively easy but disconnecting the throttle cable ends so that the switch housing will hang down to access the small phillips screws holding the switch has me stumped. The instructions say you don't have to do anything with the cables but I'm missing something. Without getting slack in the cables to rotate the "ball" on the two ends so they will slide through the slot in the plastic, getting the cable ends loose is not happening. Highside or anyone, will you give me a little coaching? Thanks, Jaybird.

[The emperor has no clothes]

You don't need to remove the throttle cables, or throttle tube.

[hoosier jaybird]

Ooh K. How do I get the housing down far enough to access the switch screws? Right now the lower housing half won't drop down more than a 1/4 inch. 

[Hook#3287]

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/VSGPages/starterbutton.htm

This is a good write up on how to do it.

No pics, but it explains things well.

[hoosier jaybird]

Thanks, I have read and reread that article. I am having issues with the lower housing half not dropping down far enough to access the small screws that hold in the switch. The housing screws are out and the top half is off to the side. The article says you don't have to do anything with the cables but the cables attach to the throttle tube on each side of the handlebar and won't let the housing go down. Right now the housing drops down about a 1/4 inch and one of the little screws is visible but tucked under the handle bar. Even if I could get on it I don't think I could get it back in. I must be missing something here.

[RonW]

Problem is that the people who have done this forgot already if the lower clamshell got hungup. The article does state that you don't have to mess with the throttle cables (quote below). The instructions might have been for a tourer/standard or an Interstate, visa versa, whichever bike the author owns. The Interstate cable elbows differ from the standard/tour elbows.

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"The button/switch can be accessed by removing the two phillips head screws located
underneath the button/kill switch housing assembly. This housing also serves to hold
the throttle on (no worries) as the lower half of this housing has a post that mates with a
corresponding hole drilled into the handlebars. You do not have to mess with the throttle
cables at all. Very simple disassembly."

[The emperor has no clothes]

Ooh K. How do I get the housing down far enough to access the switch screws? Right now the lower housing half won't drop down more than a 1/4 inch. 

If you have removed both screws holding the bottom of the housing to the upper part, the only thing I can think of is the little nub in the bottom housing is corroded into the handlebar. There is a hole in the bar that cooesponds with the nub. Wedge it off with a screwdriver or such.

[Hook#3287]

If your still having issues getting it off, you could loosen the handle bar bolts and move the bars over and up a little.  That will give you a little extra room to work.  Just be careful the bars don't smack the tank.

[hoosier jaybird]

Thanks RonW, I have a suspicion that maybe the Standard and Tourer are different than the I/S. My Clymer's book shows that you just unhook those cable ends at the throttle tube. The picture in the book isn't too clear but it appears that you can unhook them with your fingers. I don't see how because the "ball" on the cable end needs to rotate so it will slip out of the slot on the throttle tube. The lower half of my housing is free from the locating nipple underneath. The cables go up each side of the handle bar and attach to the throttle tube. When the throttle is rolled, the cables work opposite to each other and keep a slight tension on the throttle tube. Consequentially the housing will not go down because the cables won't let it. Those of you riders that have a I/S, have you done this button service and what do I need to do? Thanks, Jaybird.   

[The emperor has no clothes]

Thanks RonW, I have a suspicion that maybe the Standard and Tourer are different than the I/S. My Clymer's book shows that you just unhook those cable ends at the throttle tube. The picture in the book isn't too clear but it appears that you can unhook them with your fingers. I don't see how because the "ball" on the cable end needs to rotate so it will slip out of the slot on the throttle tube. The lower half of my housing is free from the locating nipple underneath. The cables go up each side of the handle bar and attach to the throttle tube. When the throttle is rolled, the cables work opposite to each other and keep a slight tension on the throttle tube. Consequentially the housing will not go down because the cables won't let it. Those of you riders that have a I/S, have you done this button service and what do I need to do? Thanks, Jaybird.   

I have a Standard and an I/S. I haven't done the cleaning on the I/S because they have a relay that keeps them from have all the current go thru them like the Standard. But the housings come apart the same way. Something is keeping yours stuck for some reason. Corrosion or maybe some grip glue got on it. But with both screws removed it the lower part should come off and hang by the wires.

[hoosier jaybird]

Well thanks for trying to help. I can lower the housing bottom half by about 1/4 inch, then what little slack is in the cables tightens up and the housing will go down no further. There is still a trick here somewhere.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Well thanks for trying to help. I can lower the housing bottom half by about 1/4 inch, then what little slack is in the cables tightens up and the housing will go down no further. There is still a trick here somewhere.

Sorry, I wasn't paying close enough attention. I thought you were attempting to clean the starter button switch on a Standard. I would do as Hook recommended and slide the entire throttle off the bar. But now I'm curious why you want to clean the switch. I've never had to on my I/S. Had to 3 or 4 times on the Standard.

[hoosier jaybird]

Thanks Meathead, just trying to head trouble off at the pass. I have seen a post or two of guys having issues with the switch and corrosion.

[Jess from VA]

Well thanks for trying to help. I can lower the housing bottom half by about 1/4 inch, then what little slack is in the cables tightens up and the housing will go down no further. There is still a trick here somewhere.

Sorry, I wasn't paying close enough attention. I thought you were attempting to clean the starter button switch on a Standard. I would do as Hook recommended and slide the entire throttle off the bar. But now I'm curious why you want to clean the switch. I've never had to on my I/S. Had to 3 or 4 times on the Standard.

What Hook suggested was to loosen the riser bolts (first padding the tank), and slide the entire bar and all controls to the left a little, loosening up the throttle cables to make it easier to work on the switch.  Not to pull the throttle controls off the bar.

I've never had one problem with the starter switch on either of my interstates, 19 years-old each.

[1NorthRyder]

I just took mine apart last weekend (I/S) and found the same problem. I couldn't get the throttle cable off the tube either so disconnected one cable at the carburetor and then everything came apart real easy. I hope to put mine back together this weekend.

[hoosier jaybird]

Thank you 1NorthRyder, your info looks like what I needed. I will do the PM before the riding season. Right now it's 10 degrees outside, RATS. Anyhow, what was the condition of the switch when you got it open? Jaybird.

[1NorthRyder]

Thank you 1NorthRyder, your info looks like what I needed. I will do the PM before the riding season. Right now it's 10 degrees outside, RATS. Anyhow, what was the condition of the switch when you got it open? Jaybird.

My switch looked good, I was actually taking it apart so I could wet sand and polish the aluminum housing which cleaned up really nice, very shiny now.

[hoosier jaybird]

Ok 1North Ryder, your tip was the ticket. I serviced the button switch today. One of the little dimples in the switch had a little green so I used contact cleaner and a fine scuff pad then bulb grease to put it together. Cranks every push. Now to you guys with Interstates that have never done this procedure, I learned a few things today. You will need to loosen the throttle cable housing anchor down at the carb bank on the right side. Take off the chrome choke linkage cover to gain a little more access. Raising the fuel tank a little aids in getting to the nut and housing end. The nut is kept from turning by a bend on the bracket. The housing end has a swivel that you turn ccw with a 10mm open end wrench to back off the nut so you can slip the anchor out of the bracket and once it is out of the bracket you can pull the housing down and unhook the cable end and gain some slack on the cable up at the throttle tube. Once that is off rotate the throttle the other way to slacken the other cable so you can unhook that cable. Now the switch housing will come down and you can proceed with the switch service. The screws that mount the switch are really small so a sheet over the tank and engine will keep the engine compartment from eating one of those little guys if you drop it. After the service reassemble in reverse. A needle nose pliers really helps for those with butter fingers. I don't know why the difference between the standard/tourer and the I/S, but you won't get that switch housing down with the cables attached to the throttle tube. I would not want to do that procedure in a parking lot or along the roadside. Now it's one less concern for the season. Thanks to all that helped me with this, Jaybird.   

[mrgeoff]

I know that when I did mine on my 99 Tourer, I used one of those plastic grocery bags that I hung, underneath the switch, so if I dropped any thing or small screw, it would fall into the bag...Just take your time...one simple step at a time...you will be ok...I know I was nervous as heck when I first did it...made sure I cleaned the contacts really well...then prayed like heck that I didn't mess anything up as I put it all together...It worked...You will see...it is very simple...just take your time...I always take my time when I do any work on my bike...!!!
Another helpful hint from the "Sandman"...!!!

[Tfrank59]

It's been at least a couple of years since I did my starter button maintenance, and when I did it I followed the shop talk to the letter. It was still a pain in the butt as I recall. The fact is for about the last year my headlights been messed up because I've had a dirty starter switch. I guess it's past time to get in there and take care of it. What I've been doing in the meanwhile to make my headlight come on is just barely pop the starter switch after the bike's already running and the light comes on. Telltale sign that the switch needs a good cleaning.

[Alberta Patriot]

Not sure this would help but I have had problem switches on power tools over the years and have sprayed lots of WD40 in and air jet after....repeated until working again. My tools are subjected to very dusty(sawdust/MDF) conditions and some switches/triggers are not sealed very well.

[Paladin528]

I rean into the same issue last year when I did mine.  I just disconnected the cables and removed the grip from the bar.  More work but eaiser to play with the small parts in there

[Chrisj CMA]

Not sure this would help but I have had problem switches on power tools over the years and have sprayed lots of WD40 in and air jet after....repeated until working again. My tools are subjected to very dusty(sawdust/MDF) conditions and some switches/triggers are not sealed very well.

wont help

[Tfrank59]

yeah even using electronics spray cleaner won't get in there (or in the turn signal switch for that matter) to get the contacts clean.  These switches are designed NOT to allow stuff (good or bad) to get into the contacts.

[gordonv]

From what I've heard/seen, it's the holes that the springs are in, along with the old grease. You have to clean out these cavities, so the spring can do there job of pushing.

That is why flushing wont do anything. You're only cleaning the contact. It's the spring not pushing on the contacts that are the problem.