99 Brake caliper pin (stripped)

[Kevin Valk]

Hello,
I successfully removed this rear brake caliper pin - no issues. But when I reinstalled after changing the brakes, the threads to tighten the bolt are stripped. The bolt is fine, but does not tighten as the threads in the hole are stripped. I had to get the bike put back together and got the bolt to hold, but am not confident that it will hold after riding. I noticed that the pin is put in place with a small hammer and tightened by the threads, (not sure what actually holds the pin from falling out).

I researched a fix using a "helicoil", by drilling out the hole, threading new threads in the hole, and installing helicoil in the hole to allow the same bolt to be reused. The thread looks like a M12 x 1.25mm.

Thoughts?

[indybobm]

Good that you started a new thread. Do you mean item #10 or #15 on the parts fiche?

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1998/gl1500ct-a-valkyrie-tourer/rear-brake-caliper

[Gryphon Rider]

Are you sure you actually got the threads to engage?  I haven't done my brakes recently, but if my very fuzzy memory serves me, it may take a bit of wiggling or tapping to get the pin inserted far enough for the threads to engage.  Just looking at the design, it would be very hard to actually strip the threads.  Item 9 (or maybe 14?) in this picture:

[..]

Once you have 15 in then part 14 should hold it in place?

[Kevin Valk]

#9, the pin bolt. Honda part # 45131-MA3-006. The bolt is fine, but the threads in the hole are shot.

[..]

#9, the pin bolt. Honda part # 45131-MA3-006. The bolt is fine, but the threads in the hole are shot.

Ohhhhh. The big booger.

[..]

I use a drop of blue Loctite when reinstalling.

Some will tell you that the bolt should be replaced every time.

[indybobm]

That is a pretty important bolt. You might want to buy a used Caliper off of ebay and rebuild it. Make sure that it is one for for an Interstate.

[Kevin Valk]

Thanks for the feedback. I will try the locktite. I put the bolt back in at a slight angle to get it to grab. The Loctite may be an easy fix that I hope will hold. I don't want to use a helicoil as it requires drilling and threading.

I still don't understand how this bolt actually holds the brake caliper in place. The pin is pushed in, and the threads themselves just hold the bolt/pin to the caliper. The end of the pin has to hold in place by friction. It looks like a thru bolt with a nut on the end will keep the pin from falling out.

I will try to the fix this weekend and hope that the caliper does not break loose from hard riding, sudden stops or hitting a pothole.

[SCain]

Thanks for the feedback. I will try the locktite. I put the bolt back in at a slight angle to get it to grab. The Loctite may be an easy fix that I hope will hold. I don't want to use a helicoil as it requires drilling and threading.

I still don't understand how this bolt actually holds the brake caliper in place. The pin is pushed in, and the threads themselves just hold the bolt/pin to the caliper. The end of the pin has to hold in place by friction. It looks like a thru bolt with a nut on the end will keep the pin from falling out.

I will try to the fix this weekend and hope that the caliper does not break loose from hard riding, sudden stops or hitting a pothole.

The bolt doesn't hold the caliper in place, its one of the pins that the caliper floats on or slides on. The caliper is a free floating caliper and needs that large pin and the small pin (#11) to slide on.
Don't put a thru bolt with a nut on the end, it will not work. Any rear valkyrie caliper will work, they are not bike specific. The interstate calipers were black and the Std/Tourer were silver.

[indybobm]

Any rear valkyrie caliper will work, they are not bike specific. The interstate calipers were black and the Std/Tourer were silver.

Actually, the Interstate calipers are different. There is a difference in diameter of the pistons that push against the brake pads. Best to get one for an Interstate.

[sandy]

Are you sure you actually got the threads to engage?  I haven't done my brakes recently, but if my very fuzzy memory serves me, it may take a bit of wiggling or tapping to get the pin inserted far enough for the threads to engage.  Just looking at the design, it would be very hard to actually strip the threads.  Item 9 (or maybe 14?) in this picture:

Bolt #9 has a torque spec. It's 47 ft/lb. Like others have said, use Never Sieze on the threads.

[Kevin Valk]

The bolt was reinstalled at a slight angle and grabbed enough to hold the caliper in place. I am not confident that it will hold for a prolonged period. Yes, it does seem odd to have the threads stripped. It was frustrating to say the least. I suspect the threads were already damaged from the previous owner, (likely from over tightening or using an impact).

[indybobm]

Are you sure you actually got the threads to engage?  I haven't done my brakes recently, but if my very fuzzy memory serves me, it may take a bit of wiggling or tapping to get the pin inserted far enough for the threads to engage.  Just looking at the design, it would be very hard to actually strip the threads.  Item 9 (or maybe 14?) in this picture:

Bolt #9 has a torque spec. It's 47 ft/lb. Like others have said, use Never Sieze on the threads.

Actually, I think bolt #9 has a torque spec of 9 ft/lb.

[Chrisj CMA]

For future reference that bolt does not need to be removed for brake pad changing. wheel removal or any other normal maintenance.

[Ricky-D]

The bolt was reinstalled at a slight angle and grabbed enough to hold the caliper in place. I am not confident that it will hold for a prolonged period. Yes, it does seem odd to have the threads stripped. It was frustrating to say the least. I suspect the threads were already damaged from the previous owner, (likely from over tightening or using an impact).

You are saying you intentionally cross threaded the bolt to gain purchase and you are going to ride the bike like that

That bolt is the main holding force to keep the caliper body from rotating.

If the bolt breaks free you risk tearing up some parts not to mention losing braking on the rear wheel.

There are many descriptive words to describe what you plan to do, all I will say is that it is very dangerous.

***

[Kevin Valk]

Hello. Thanks for the feedback. I realize the rear brake caliper pin does not need to be removed to change the brake pads. I had to remove it as the pistons were seized, I mean really corroded. I had to pull the whole caliper off, remove the pistons to clean them, relubricate and reinstall the caliper.

That is where I noticed that the caliper bolt would not retighten. The bolt/pin went back in, but as I tightened it, would just spin and not grab. I pulled the pin and noticed that there were shavings from the threads in the hole. The bolt itself was fine. I just bought some thread lock tape and thread lock to see if the bolt will retighten and grab enough to hold. If it does not, then the helicoil is the only other option. A used caliper would also fix the problem as well.

[Hook#3287]

I have a couple of rear calipers I picked up over the years.

I checked them out, to see if I could come up with some help for you and discovered one is also cross threaded like you suspect your is. ???

When the pin bolt is installed, the pin goes up in a slight angle, probably keeping the caliper from sliding as it should.  Now I know why it was in the parts grab bag.

It appears the threading on the caliper does not go all the way through, but you may be able to file it down some and insert a tap from the back to fix your threads.

Might be easier than the helicoil.

[hubcapsc]

I think you don't want to be removing the caliper from the mounting plate.

When you need to remove the caliper to work on it, you can jack your
bike up to where the rear wheel is "neutral"... not off the ground, but
no weight on it. Go through the motions as if you're going to remove
the rear wheel, but only  pull the axle out enough to remove the
plate/caliper combo, and then you can work on it.







-Mike "we all do it a little different..."

[9Ball]

That bolt doesn’t ever need to be removed unless it is rusted and you need to replace it.  A torn boot will allow water inside and wash the silicone grease out after prolonged exposure.

The caliper just slides off the bracket...I just rebuilt mine and know this for a fact.  I replaced both boots, new pistons, oil seals and dust seals, new pad pin and pin cover screw.

Good luck...