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dreamaker
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« on: November 01, 2009, 11:53:28 AM » |
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Getting information from another thread for a quickie test if I understand correctly, to check plug fire it was suggested to use a inductive timing light. At 900rpm I checked 1-2 and had a quick pulse, then checked 3-4 which also had a quick pulse. When I checked 5-6 it had a slower intermittent pules.
What my issue is I can take off on the bike and it would be running perfect and maybe I could stop for a light and suddenly get a flutter when I take off. Its not so bad that the bike runs real bad or wants to stall just an intermittent flutter. Then maybe at the next light it may run good again. I have checked, clean and replace everything I could think of, from tank to engine. So now I am thinking there maybe an issue with the 5-6 coil. has anyone had issues with coils with similar symptoms.
Dan
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Pete
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« Reply #1 on: November 01, 2009, 02:07:53 PM » |
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Since it is occasional - could it be floating trash in one or two carbs, occasionally stopping up 1 or more jets and then being released? thanks Pete.
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dreamaker
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« Reply #2 on: November 01, 2009, 02:36:10 PM » |
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This has been happening all summer. I went through the carbs twice, in fact instead of cleaning the jets I replaced them and blew everything out with carb cleaner. Real hair puller.
Dan
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Pete
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« Reply #3 on: November 01, 2009, 05:35:49 PM » |
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Good luck, sorry that was my best shot. Pete.
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dreamaker
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« Reply #4 on: November 01, 2009, 05:44:57 PM » |
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Thank you for your help.
Dan
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fstsix
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« Reply #5 on: November 01, 2009, 06:43:04 PM » |
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I have found that the stock ignition is pretty sound,Most of the tuning issues are Carb related ie vacuum leaks, Have you ever checked or replaced hoses.The pair valves will even hang up also, lean condition. These bikes are getting old, Have you reworked your petcock that thing will starve your motor, also been a big topic recently. Also check the vent hose under your tank that is not pinched.
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dreamaker
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« Reply #6 on: November 02, 2009, 02:56:41 AM » |
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Not sure what the pair valve is. I replaced all hoses, it is already desmogged, I replaced and checked the petcock diaphragm and replaced the gas tank filter. Also replaced and checked the vent hose to the tank and the vent hose to the air-box. Has anyone had issues with one of the coils running weaker then the others.
Dan
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #7 on: November 02, 2009, 04:35:22 AM » |
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I often wonder how long the stock spark plug wires are supposed to last. If my truck was doing what you describe and the wires were a few years old, Id replace them and plugs (if need be) before checking anything else. My "97 has 109K and runs great, but I still wonder about the plug wires?????
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dreamaker
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« Reply #8 on: November 02, 2009, 05:35:09 AM » |
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I was kinda thinking that , but the slow pulse is on the 5-6 cylinders which is on the same coil also. Thinking about switching I/S mod. to the stock mod., then if no change check connections to the coil. Didn't want to pull the tank because it is full.
Dan
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #9 on: November 02, 2009, 05:40:54 AM » |
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I was kinda thinking that , but the slow pulse is on the 5-6 cylinders which is on the same coil also. Thinking about switching I/S mod. to the stock mod., then if no change check connections to the coil. Didn't want to pull the tank because it is full.
Dan
Ive pulled my tank when full, not a problem. Its 5 gallons of gas, just get in a good leverage position and be ready for it......someone a few years back started an urban legand that you cannot remove a tank with gas in it.........only if you have some limitation (injury or something) preventing you from lifting 70lbs |
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fstsix
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« Reply #10 on: November 02, 2009, 06:03:23 AM » |
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I know this may seem old school on a damp day last month a work van had a intermittent rough running syndrome  This happened before years ago so i wait for nightfall and opened engine cover start motor and used water spray bottle to mist plug wires looked like a Christmas tree. As far as your coils try voltage with Ohmmeter for resistance. |
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CajunRider
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« Reply #11 on: November 02, 2009, 06:52:45 AM » |
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Before you buy a new coil, swap the 3-4 coil with the 5-6 coil. See if your problem follows the coil. You could also try swapping plug wires, but they are all different lengths, so it'd have to be a temp thing just to check the fire. Also, try the same with the spark plugs. The easiest way to check electrical is to start swapping parts and see what the problem follows. Since we have three of everything in the ignition, we got plenty of spares.  If you have the manual (or know the proper values and procedures...) you can connect a cheap volt meter to everything and check for proper resistances. |
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Sent from my Apple IIe
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Patrick
Member
Posts: 15433
VRCC 4474
Largo Florida
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« Reply #12 on: November 02, 2009, 10:28:55 AM » |
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I agree with swapping coils, and, removing a full fuel tank is easy, like stated.. Swapping the coils will probably fix a dirty connection anyway..I don't remember any problems with these coils ever being mentioned before or with any factory ICM[except for a dirty or bent pin connector once in a while],, but,, there can be a first for anything..
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dreamaker
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« Reply #13 on: November 02, 2009, 11:46:22 AM » |
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Well I pulled the 5-6 coil and cleaned the rust off of it and reinstalled, Boy that was fun !!! I guess my hands are to big. Took it for a short run seemed to run OK for now, I'll have to take a longer run when it stops raining. I looked in the shop manual and far as checking the wires and coil they say I need a 10M ohm multimeter.
Dan
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dreamaker
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« Reply #14 on: November 07, 2009, 09:04:45 AM » |
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Well I also pulled my slides and took out the FactoryPro needles out and put the stock ones back in and at low end it seems to run stronger. I thought the needles take effect after 3000rpm. I'm totally confused now. I also inspected the diaphragm for cracks and holes and they looked OK. It was hard to listen to the engine because the wind is kicking up, but it seemed to run smoother, I maybe should re-sync the carbs. again.
Dan
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #15 on: November 07, 2009, 10:57:39 AM » |
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When the discussion about carburetors and the metering parameters revolves around the jets which are the "idle" the "needle" and the "main" it is necessary to realize there is a large amount of overlap and the result is that each jet will definitely affect the overall performance throughout the complete range but will have the greatest effect withing the range the jet is designed to attenuate.
That being said, the subject of range when referencing carburetors is not connected to RPM's. The range in reference to carburetors is throttle setting. Closed-mid-full. The best practice when dealing with this area is to index the throttle on you bike so then you will know exactly in which range you throttle is operating when experiencing a describable problem.
Without trying to start a pissing contest I'll use the example of 3000 rpm's where this is easily achievable at a very low throttle setting (mainly on the idle jet) with the transmission in neutral and at the other end of the spectrum where going up a steep hill in top gear it's possible to be at full throttle and yet only achieving 3000 rpm's.
So, when using a rpm figure to describe a carburetor function and performance feature it is only really suitable when connected to the two ends of the spectrum which would be "idle" or "WOT".
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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