Rescued a 1998 Tourer

[jh1528]

A post to say hello, again... An old member re-joining the Valk side! Picked up a beautiful 1998 Tourer  from a work buddy that retired a few years ago... Its been sitting (inside), for about 2 years... Ive got a little maintenance to do, plan to change all the fluids, service the rear diff, change plugs and go through the carbs... Anything else you guys recommend I check before putting her back on the road? Nice to be a Valk owner again!!!

[hubcapsc]

Bike looks great. Seems like you're focusing on the right maintenance...

-Mike

[Forge]

Welcome back. Good looking ride.

[Valkorado]

Hard to stray far, ain't it?  Nice bike and some sweet xtras - - engine chrome, cobra light bars, lower fork covers, fender and bag rails, etc.  You scored big time!

[Tfrank59]

very nice!  I like the rad hoses.  #miles?  You're right to get into the final drive and see if it's been  greased.  I rode my girl 5-6k before changing the rear tire only to learn then that the PO (or his mechanic) didn't do the rear end maintenance

Oh, get you a new Yuasa so you won't get stranded

[jh1528]

Definitely hard to stay away, the Valk is the best road bike Ive ever ridden! She has almost 54K on the clock, not even broke in good... Ive know the bike since it was new, has been very well maintained... It is definitely loaded with aftermarket accessories! It also has Mark T exhaust!

[h13man]

Really a nice bike you got there! I'd give her a 1/2 can of Seafoam to a fresh tank of gas. Mine was a garage queen also and that's all it took to make her perfect within 2.5 mi.

[Bagger John - #3785]

That bike reminds me of one of F6Gal's. Don't know if she still has it, as I don't frequent the General board much these days.

Good score. 

[..]

She's a cracker! (English term).

[old2soon]

            Check mfg date on tires. New battery makes Perfect sense. Have a look at ALL the brake pads and the rotors. MAYBE after settin up so long intake O-rings and check all 18 clamps and have a look at the air filter or just change it out. Something may have taken up residence in 2 years! Check upper and lower radiator hose clamps. And-B T W-welcome back!  These cursed motorsickles of ours be VERY Addictive!  RIDE SAFE.

[Grandpot]

She's a beauty.  With 53K miles she's just about broken-in.

[jh1528]

           Check mfg date on tires. New battery makes Perfect sense. Have a look at ALL the brake pads and the rotors. MAYBE after settin up so long intake O-rings and check all 18 clamps and have a look at the air filter or just change it out. Something may have taken up residence in 2 years! Check upper and lower radiator hose clamps. And-B T W-welcome back!   These cursed motorsickles of ours be VERY Addictive!   RIDE SAFE.

Great additions to my check list, thanks... has to have a new battery, current one is dead... I checked the tires, Avon Venoms, fairly new, date code 08/16, no dry rotting no cracks or delamination. Will definitely be checking the air filter and the brakes... thanks again

[DGS65]

Be proactive and replace the petcock before you have an issue!  They don't like to sit and the vacuum membrane dries not and falls allowing fuel to back into the engine.

[jh1528]

Be proactive and replace the petcock before you have an issue!  They don't like to sit and the vacuum membrane dries not and falls allowing fuel to back into the engine.

thanks for the info, I do remember petcock issues... Adding that to my list of items to inspect...

[¿spoom]

I'd pull the plugs before turning it over that first time, just in case any cyl. has gas pooled in it. Too many hydrolock damaged bikes after a long sit. Click, clunk, crack, park. 

[jh1528]

I'd pull the plugs before turning it over that first time, just in case any cyl. has gas pooled in it. Too many hydrolock damaged bikes after a long sit. Click, clunk, crack, park. 

Added to the list thanks... had planned on installing new...

[98valk]

pull drive shaft and moly grease u-joint.

pull alternator clean out dust. brushes will be well within spec. check the rear bearing, mine at 52k was spinning too easily and had some noise. I replaced it with a better bearing from napa.

[Gryphon Rider]

Be proactive and replace the petcock before you have an issue!  They don't like to sit and the vacuum membrane dries not and falls allowing fuel to back into the engine.

To prevent hydrolock you'd do better to proactively replace the float needle valves.  You can test the fuel diaphragm of the vacuum side of the valve by disconnecting the fuel hose, turning on the valve, and seeing if it drips.

If you're replacing parts just due to age because they might fail in the future, why stop at the fuel valve?  Replace the alternator, all hoses under the tank, bearings for the steering and wheels, the U-joint, the drive shaft and pinion cup, the drive shaft seal, fork seals and bushings, the clutch dampener, the timing belts, all the light bulbs, all the relays, the water pump, etc., etc., etc. ...

When it comes to the fuel valve, if it's working and you would replace it with an OEM valve should it fail, the best thing is to buy a cover set kit and put it on your shelf or in your saddlebag until needed.

[franco6]

Real nice Valk .Where is the windscreen? You might want to get one ,unless you like holding on in a tornado. lol.

[98valk]

Be proactive and replace the petcock before you have an issue!  They don't like to sit and the vacuum membrane dries not and falls allowing fuel to back into the engine.

To prevent hydrolock you'd do better to proactively replace the float needle valves.  You can test the fuel diaphragm of the vacuum side of the valve by disconnecting the fuel hose, turning on the valve, and seeing if it drips.

If you're replacing parts just due to age because they might fail in the future, why stop at the fuel valve?  Replace the alternator, all hoses under the tank, bearings for the steering and wheels, the U-joint, the drive shaft and pinion cup, the drive shaft seal, fork seals and bushings, the clutch dampener, the timing belts, all the light bulbs, all the relays, the water pump, etc., etc., etc. ...

When it comes to the fuel valve, if it's working and you would replace it with an OEM valve should it fail, the best thing is to buy a cover set kit and put it on your shelf or in your saddlebag until needed.

Mike Nixon – noted CBX and vintage Honda guru says:

    "I don't arbitrarily replace parts, only what is needed. The factory float valves often last longer than the motorcycle. They're also expensive. But, I will not use aftermarket float valves, and here is why. That's chrome plating that is coming off this aftermarket float valve. The factory ones never do that."
http://www.randakksblog.com/more-problems-with-aftermarket-float-valves/

[jh1528]

Be proactive and replace the petcock before you have an issue!  They don't like to sit and the vacuum membrane dries not and falls allowing fuel to back into the engine.

To prevent hydrolock you'd do better to proactively replace the float needle valves.  You can test the fuel diaphragm of the vacuum side of the valve by disconnecting the fuel hose, turning on the valve, and seeing if it drips.

If you're replacing parts just due to age because they might fail in the future, why stop at the fuel valve?  Replace the alternator, all hoses under the tank, bearings for the steering and wheels, the U-joint, the drive shaft and pinion cup, the drive shaft seal, fork seals and bushings, the clutch dampener, the timing belts, all the light bulbs, all the relays, the water pump, etc., etc., etc. ...

When it comes to the fuel valve, if it's working and you would replace it with an OEM valve should it fail, the best thing is to buy a cover set kit and put it on your shelf or in your saddlebag until needed.

Wont be replacing parts for parts sake, just servicing it. thanks for the tips..

[jh1528]

Real nice Valk .Where is the windscreen? You might want to get one ,unless you like holding on in a tornado. lol.

I have the factory windscreen, took it off when I got it home because the anti scratch coating is yellowed... I plan to remove the coating and polish the lexan eventually... I'm good without a screen, but will keep it because its factory to the bike, and will use it for cold weather
riding...

[Gryphon Rider]

Be proactive and replace the petcock before you have an issue!  They don't like to sit and the vacuum membrane dries not and falls allowing fuel to back into the engine.

To prevent hydrolock you'd do better to proactively replace the float needle valves.  You can test the fuel diaphragm of the vacuum side of the valve by disconnecting the fuel hose, turning on the valve, and seeing if it drips.

If you're replacing parts just due to age because they might fail in the future, why stop at the fuel valve?  Replace the alternator, all hoses under the tank, bearings for the steering and wheels, the U-joint, the drive shaft and pinion cup, the drive shaft seal, fork seals and bushings, the clutch dampener, the timing belts, all the light bulbs, all the relays, the water pump, etc., etc., etc. ...

When it comes to the fuel valve, if it's working and you would replace it with an OEM valve should it fail, the best thing is to buy a cover set kit and put it on your shelf or in your saddlebag until needed.

Mike Nixon – noted CBX and vintage Honda guru says:

    "I don't arbitrarily replace parts, only what is needed. The factory float valves often last longer than the motorcycle. They're also expensive. But, I will not use aftermarket float valves, and here is why. That's chrome plating that is coming off this aftermarket float valve. The factory ones never do that."
http://www.randakksblog.com/more-problems-with-aftermarket-float-valves/

For a hydrolock to happen, the float needles must allow fuel to get past them.  The internal spring will get soft with age.

For those who don't regularly look at Valk carbs off the bike, note that in BonS' video, the carbs are upside-down:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuRJcEwW3QY

[98valk]

Be proactive and replace the petcock before you have an issue!  They don't like to sit and the vacuum membrane dries not and falls allowing fuel to back into the engine.

To prevent hydrolock you'd do better to proactively replace the float needle valves.  You can test the fuel diaphragm of the vacuum side of the valve by disconnecting the fuel hose, turning on the valve, and seeing if it drips.

If you're replacing parts just due to age because they might fail in the future, why stop at the fuel valve?  Replace the alternator, all hoses under the tank, bearings for the steering and wheels, the U-joint, the drive shaft and pinion cup, the drive shaft seal, fork seals and bushings, the clutch dampener, the timing belts, all the light bulbs, all the relays, the water pump, etc., etc., etc. ...

When it comes to the fuel valve, if it's working and you would replace it with an OEM valve should it fail, the best thing is to buy a cover set kit and put it on your shelf or in your saddlebag until needed.

Mike Nixon – noted CBX and vintage Honda guru says:

   "I don't arbitrarily replace parts, only what is needed. The factory float valves often last longer than the motorcycle. They're also expensive. But, I will not use aftermarket float valves, and here is why. That's chrome plating that is coming off this aftermarket float valve. The factory ones never do that."
http://www.randakksblog.com/more-problems-with-aftermarket-float-valves/

For a hydrolock to happen, the float needles must allow fuel to get past them.  The internal spring will get soft with age.

the spring has nothing to do with shutting off fuel flow completely. the spring sees very very little stress, it will last almost forever. It is the little metal stop that surrounds the spring on top of the needle valve which contacts the float tab (see pic). all carbs and the needle and seat and float have been designed like this for decades.
see my posts  http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,93751.0.html

[baird4444]

Sweet lookin Bike!!!
     Love it!

        Big Score - Mike