Hands are bloodied, fingers sore but its fixed (non Valk)

[Chrisj CMA]

My 2011 F-150 just went out of warranty a few miles ago.  Then all of a sudden the heater stopped working just in time for winter.  LOL  Ok so after much research and looking at the book I decide to buy a new blend door motor thinngy.  Simple thing, it sits right behind the radio in the center of the dash.  

I know why (now) that Ford says to remove most of the dashboard.  Holy crap that thing was hard to get to.  I could see it and get to one mounting screw but the rear screw was a tight fit, no socket wrench gonna make it in there.  Thought I hit the lottery when I thought of a small vice grip clamped on the socket but even once I got the buggar on the screw there was no room to turn it.

So I decided to just hold the socket in my hand and place it on the screw and turn it with finger power.  Was working great until I dropped it and heard it go ting ting tingting thud.

So I took a break.  Did some thinking and came up with the fix (oh, after dropping a second 8mm socket)  good thing 5/16 I think was the one that fits good enough

So I took a zip tie and trimmed the head enough so it would go deep int the socket but not all the way through.  so it was a socket with a tail so I had a way to pull it back if I dropped it.

After an hour and bloody knuckles cut on all the sharp metal they have under there I was able to unscrew that rear screw and change the motor.  saved $600 but it was not fun

Best part of the whole deal is that it worked!  I have heat again!!

[msb]

You need a heater in Florida? 

I miss the days when many car or truck repairs could be done by even someone like myself with somewhat limited mechanical knowledge/skills. The wife's '92 Miata is fun to work on and I can keep it up to snuff, but not sure how much I'll be able to do on her 2017 Mazda3 and my 2017 Tacoma when they get older and need repairs.

[Chrisj CMA]

You need a heater in Florida? 

I miss the days when many car or truck repairs could be done by even someone like myself with somewhat limited mechanical knowledge/skills. The wife's '92 Miata is fun to work on and I can keep it up to snuff, but not sure how much I'll be able to do on her 2017 Mazda3 and my 2017 Tacoma when they get older and need repairs.

Here in North West FL we have already had mornings at or just under 32 degrees. Ya you need the heater when it's at that temp

[The emperor has no clothes]

If it's anything like Nissan Titan, I feel your pain. Had to replace some heater door actuators a while back. Holy crap ! I thought working on an Astro Van was bad. That was child's play compared to the Titan.

[Moonshot_1]

You need a heater in Florida? 

I miss the days when many car or truck repairs could be done by even someone like myself with somewhat limited mechanical knowledge/skills. The wife's '92 Miata is fun to work on and I can keep it up to snuff, but not sure how much I'll be able to do on her 2017 Mazda3 and my 2017 Tacoma when they get older and need repairs.

Here in North West FL we have already had mornings at or just under 32 degrees. Ya you need the heater when it's at that temp

Wore shorts and light coat going to work this morning. 32 was the high here. Should get cold up here next month maybe.

[msb]

You need a heater in Florida? 

I miss the days when many car or truck repairs could be done by even someone like myself with somewhat limited mechanical knowledge/skills. The wife's '92 Miata is fun to work on and I can keep it up to snuff, but not sure how much I'll be able to do on her 2017 Mazda3 and my 2017 Tacoma when they get older and need repairs.

Here in North West FL we have already had mornings at or just under 32 degrees. Ya you need the heater when it's at that temp

Was just kidding about the heater of course, but I actually did not know that you get freezing temps there...even in Northern Florida. Up here we just think you're all in shorts and T's all year long Has been a beautiful sunny weekend here in SW BC , 53 F … go figure, not bad for November.

Back on topic...at Billings Inzane, I dropped two screws behind the radiator when removing the side cowlings of my fairing to tighten a loose front signal stem. Wound up taping a magnetized allen key to the end of my radio antenna to fish them out.

[Gryphon Rider]

Although they're not as dirty, under-the-dash jobs are about the worst ones.  Between getting a light positioned so it won't blind you or be blocked the moment you get your hand in there, and positioning your body, typically lying on your back but with everything below your armpits in some weird, super awkward position, wishing you had extra joints between your shoulders and elbows and wrists, and the fact that there are many sharp steel edges under there to squeeze your hands past, and that you can never put a tool down in an easily-retrievable location, they are jobs that inspire new combinations of profanity.

I've changed blower motors in several different vehicles (again, a necessity in winter), but was pleasantly surprised how easy it was in my new-to-me Dakota.

Not me, but I can certainly relate:

[cookiedough]

I dropped a plastic clip once up under the glove box fiddling with the cabin air filter (same area).  I could see it pulling the side plastic trim up some, but no room to reach it about 18 inches away.  I have one of those metal long 18 inch or so rods that have 3-4 prongs at the end able to pick up small items.  It worked without having to disassemble more of the dash up under there.  Magnets come in handy as well.  Amazes me how clumsy we can be at the worst possible moment.

[MAD6Gun]

 As a GM dealer tech for over 30 years I specialized in electrical much of witch is behind the dash so I know your pain Jeff. My hands have come away from some of those jobs looking like I tangled with a angry cat. As a 6'1 320 pound guy it was real tough to get under some of those dashes. I got fairly good at standing on my head.

[Chrisj CMA]

Yes, all of you describe better than I did why it feels like you were in a fist fight after this kind of job.  It's satisfieng when the thing is fixed. I'd be bummed right now if I felt like this and it was still broke

[f6john]

I have a Titan that has at times not wanted to give me warm air when I want it but so far I haven’t had to dig into the dash, probably only a matter of time. I have watched the you tube videos and I’m not looking forward to the task. I don’t think $600.00 would begin to satisfy my dealer for the job. Glad you got through it and saved the cash.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I have a Titan that has at times not wanted to give me warm air when I want it but so far I haven’t had to dig into the dash, probably only a matter of time. I have watched the you tube videos and I’m not looking forward to the task. I don’t think $600.00 would begin to satisfy my dealer for the job. Glad you got through it and saved the cash.

They first quoted me $800 to replace 2 actuators. Then after actually looking at it they said they didn't want to do it.  It took me most of a day to take the dash, airbags, all the associated stuff apart and replace the actuators. By that point I'd had enough and waited till the next day to put everything back together. All for some broken plastic worm gears.

[old2soon]

              Most of my aircraft wrenchin was on the fine U S Navy speced stuff from Grumman iron works. Lets just say during assembly they did NOT have the Navy tech in the field or on the aircraft carrier uppermost in their minds. I had More than anyones fair share of the W T F were they thinkin moments. I looked at the videos for replacing the fuel pump on my 06 Pontiac. Looks like it SHOULD be pretty straight forward operation BUT I ain't gonna hold my breath. All these newer computer controlled everything new cars pickup trucks are gonna be will be pure dee ass bitches to work on. When's the last time anyone here gapped the points in a distributor?  RIDE SAFE.

[F6Dave]

My 2011 F-150 just went out of warranty a few miles ago.  Then all of a sudden the heater stopped working just in time for winter.  LOL  Ok so after much research and looking at the book I decide to buy a new blend door motor thinngy.  Simple thing, it sits right behind the radio in the center of the dash.  

I know why (now) that Ford says to remove most of the dashboard.  Holy crap that thing was hard to get to.  I could see it and get to one mounting screw but the rear screw was a tight fit, no socket wrench gonna make it in there.  Thought I hit the lottery when I thought of a small vice grip clamped on the socket but even once I got the buggar on the screw there was no room to turn it.

So I decided to just hold the socket in my hand and place it on the screw and turn it with finger power.  Was working great until I dropped it and heard it go ting ting tingting thud.

So I took a break.  Did some thinking and came up with the fix (oh, after dropping a second 8mm socket)  good thing 5/16 I think was the one that fits good enough

So I took a zip tie and trimmed the head enough so it would go deep int the socket but not all the way through.  so it was a socket with a tail so I had a way to pull it back if I dropped it.

After an hour and bloody knuckles cut on all the sharp metal they have under there I was able to unscrew that rear screw and change the motor.  saved $600 but it was not fun

Best part of the whole deal is that it worked!  I have heat again!!

You're making me nervous. I also have a 2011 F-150. I bought an extended warranty, but it runs out in three months.

[Chrisj CMA]

My 2011 F-150 just went out of warranty a few miles ago.  Then all of a sudden the heater stopped working just in time for winter.  LOL  Ok so after much research and looking at the book I decide to buy a new blend door motor thinngy.  Simple thing, it sits right behind the radio in the center of the dash.  

I know why (now) that Ford says to remove most of the dashboard.  Holy crap that thing was hard to get to.  I could see it and get to one mounting screw but the rear screw was a tight fit, no socket wrench gonna make it in there.  Thought I hit the lottery when I thought of a small vice grip clamped on the socket but even once I got the buggar on the screw there was no room to turn it.

So I decided to just hold the socket in my hand and place it on the screw and turn it with finger power.  Was working great until I dropped it and heard it go ting ting tingting thud.

So I took a break.  Did some thinking and came up with the fix (oh, after dropping a second 8mm socket)  good thing 5/16 I think was the one that fits good enough

So I took a zip tie and trimmed the head enough so it would go deep int the socket but not all the way through.  so it was a socket with a tail so I had a way to pull it back if I dropped it.

After an hour and bloody knuckles cut on all the sharp metal they have under there I was able to unscrew that rear screw and change the motor.  saved $600 but it was not fun

Best part of the whole deal is that it worked!  I have heat again!!

You're making me nervous. I also have a 2011 F-150. I bought an extended warranty, but it runs out in three months.

Well.  I'll be here for moral support if you have to do this particular job

[MarkT]

The heater control on my 97 Exploder broke some years ago.  You can't change the temp.  However it still puts out heat.  Combined with A/C in the summer.  To fix it required removing the dash. I said WTF?  You put in a part in there that does not work forever then put parts in front of it so labor to repair is off the scale.  I never fixed it.  Still had heat in the winter - modulated by changing the fan, switching it off, or opening the window.  It's a Ford after all.  Fix Or Repair Daily.  Will never buy another.  I'm a Toyota guy now.  Mostly bullet proof. 

Speakin of that.  Installed Evans coolant in the 4Runner recently.  You have to get all the water and antifreeze out.  Draining the block is possible but you need nearly three feet of 1/4" socket extension with a 10mm swivel and a really good flashlight.  Then when pulling it off the drain be careful - you have to drain, blow it out, close all the drains & fill with Evans Prep fluid, run it up to temp with the heater on high, open the drains, blow it out again (don't forget the heater core and the radiator & removing the thermostat), close all the drains again, fill with Evans coolant, run it again, burp it & fill again, run it much further and fill it again and eventually you may get the Evans quantity almost to the 11 Qts Toyota says it holds.  Meanwhile keep the tools with you and another gallon of Evans.  I'm up to 9 1/4 Qts now - Evans says it's OK if some of the prep fluid remains in the system.  BTW the refractometer says I have 0.4% water in it.  Almost perfect - their system can handle up to 5% water.  Did I mention, Evans costs $40/gallon - and so does the prep fluid?  This change costs $240 just for the fluids.  But then I'll never touch it again, and the aluminum block won't corrode, and the system runs with no pressure, will never overheat.  Just make sure no grease monkey adds water.  Or otherwise messes with the cooling system.  I added warning stickers and tell them every time - don't touch the cooling system.

Did I mention, when removing the 3 ft extension and 10mm swivel, the swivel dropped into the chassis?  Can't see it from any angle with a GOOD flashlight and no chance of retrieving it with a magnet just by luck.  So that 10mm swivel is somewhere on the road or ditch between here and the rifle range now. (Getting ready for the hunt) 

I buy 10mm sockets by the case.

[Chrisj CMA]

Hey Mark. My wife’s 98 explorer is broke just like yours. The PO put a petcock in the heater hose that goes to the heater core so you can close it in the summer and get only AC. Open in the winter and get just enough heat to be comfy. Not perfect but better than removing the dash which also requires removing the steering column.

[¿spoom]

Ugh those left blend door actuators are such a bear on many GM large cars that folks just use the right side turned all the way up to keep the driver warm. I guess the passenger sits in back when they get too hot. My STS is one of those cars If it goes out in Winter, the car's gonna go away.

I wonder how many people with late model V8s know their starter motor is on top of the engine, buried under the intake manifold, fuel rails, etc? Some dealer replaced starters easily run $700~$800

[MarkT]

Thanks Chris.  Interesting idea.  Might mention that to the guy who buys it.

It has another problem.  The automatic 4WD activates sending power to the front axle when it shouldn't.  Randomly.  Has done that since new.  I had the dealer re-flash the ECM back around '98.  Charged me a ton of money for that (right after the warranty ran out - during the warranty they said "It's supposed to do that")  which basically cost them nothing.  $350 IIRC.  The problem was fixed for 3 weeks.  Then it was back.  And has been ever since.

F'n FORD.  Fix Or Repair Daily.

Wiper switch failed.  Wipers move only when using the wash function. I keep Rain-X on the windshield.

Stereo failed.  Randomly turns on & off the left then the right speakers.  Whatever it feels like.

Door lock control failed, passenger door.  Drivers window control of passenger window failed.  Driver's door - outside handle latch failed.  Followed by the inside latch.  This paragraph I had fixed by the dealer - cost me a grand.

Rear hatch linkage is failing.

Gonna get rid of this PIECE OF SHIΤ before something else breaks.  After I get the coolant leak fixed.  Appears like it's getting burned up in a cylinder - same as hydrolock.  Coolant disappears at a high rate and it's not in the oil or on the ground.

And this GEM has all of 145k miles on it.

I expect my 4Runner to still be running when I'm on the wrong side of the grass.

[cookiedough]

while I do generally agree Ford vehicles have higher repair rates overall,  at the time in 2007,  I bought NEW a 2007 RAV4 3.5L V6 AWD thinking it was going to last forever.  After about 24K miles,  the headgasket was leaking not horrible, but noticeable.  So, not all Toyota's are bulletproof, just most of them.   It took dealership under warranty all of an 8+ hour day to rip it all apart and fix supposedly.  I did not keep it since had a few other issues with it so got rid of it while it was still worth something under warranty.  I had plans of keeping it forever originally though since at the time, was rated #1 in terms of reliability, guess not...

[Patrick]

I have to ask if that motor was vacuum or electric ? I grew up fixing those things but have been away from them for awhile.  Did you try taking out the glove box ?

[Chrisj CMA]

I have to ask if that motor was vacuum or electric ? I grew up fixing those things but have been away from them for awhile.  Did you try taking out the glove box ?

It's electric and it's higher than the glove box plus it's in the center of the dashboard. I did have to remove the glove box last year to replace the vent fan resistor thing that controls the fan speed so I knew that was no help

[JimC]

Something for you guys to think about when working under the dash.

My son and I ( mostly my son lately )  do most of the maintenance on our family vehicles. When we have a job that requires working under the dash for any length of time we remove one or both of the front seats. Most of the time they are buckets, and most of them only have 4 nuts, and two wire retainers to disconnect. It can normally be done in less than 5 minutes out and 10 minutes back in.
That makes it much more comfortable working under there. Your legs are stretched out flat rather than balled up like a contortionist similar to that picture above. Lets face it, if you are going to be under there for half a day or more, you may as well be comfortable. I even go so far as laying out a chase lounge pad under me so I don't get hung up on the studs from the seats.

Jim

[MAD6Gun]

Ugh those left blend door actuators are such a bear on many GM large cars that folks just use the right side turned all the way up to keep the driver warm. I guess the passenger sits in back when they get too hot. My STS is one of those cars If it goes out in Winter, the car's gonna go away.

I wonder how many people with late model V8s know their starter motor is on top of the engine, buried under the intake manifold, fuel rails, etc? Some dealer replaced starters easily run $700~$800

 On most GM cars the HVAC door actuators are buried behind the dash. Some can be accessed behind the glove box and some can be removed easily from under left side. BUT many require removal of dash,braces and column. I stopped at the last dealer I worked for a couple of weeks ago and a tech I know was replacing a HVAC case on a newer Camero. Not only does the dash have to come out but for clearance so does the windshield. Talk about a pain.

 Not all GM V8s have the starter under the intake, just the Cadillac Northstar. On the LS based engine the starter is still underneath.

[Serk]

Had to do the same thing on our Acura MDX. Working under the dash is one of those times being a tall guy really REALLY sucks, I had to do some crazy contortions to get up under there, but I got it done....

Ugh... bad memories... very bad memories...

[¿spoom]

               When's the last time anyone here gapped the points in a distributor?  RIDE SAFE.

Hee hee - this spring, dual points at that 

[¿spoom]

Ugh those left blend door actuators are such a bear on many GM large cars that folks just use the right side turned all the way up to keep the driver warm. I guess the passenger sits in back when they get too hot. My STS is one of those cars If it goes out in Winter, the car's gonna go away.

I wonder how many people with late model V8s know their starter motor is on top of the engine, buried under the intake manifold, fuel rails, etc? Some dealer replaced starters easily run $700~$800

 On most GM cars the HVAC door actuators are buried behind the dash. Some can be accessed behind the glove box and some can be removed easily from under left side. BUT many require removal of dash,braces and column. I stopped at the last dealer I worked for a couple of weeks ago and a tech I know was replacing a HVAC case on a newer Camero. Not only does the dash have to come out but for clearance so does the windshield. Talk about a pain.

 Not all GM V8s have the starter under the intake, just the Cadillac Northstar. On the LS based engine the starter is still underneath.

I may have worded it badly-the comment on topside starters was generic. Didn't even know about the N*, but have seen/heard of it on several Japanese v8 pickups and similar base SUV.

[old2soon]

               When's the last time anyone here gapped the points in a distributor?  RIDE SAFE.

Hee hee - this spring, dual points at that 

                 You'd Think after all this time I'd KNOW we have some older wrenches on this board!  RIDE SAFE.

[Patrick]

               When's the last time anyone here gapped the points in a distributor?  RIDE SAFE.

Hee hee - this spring, dual points at that 

                 You'd Think after all this time I'd KNOW we have some older wrenches on this board!  RIDE SAFE.

Sometime in probably June or July I checked and adjusted them in the old roadster. I was just checking for possible block wear. Some newer points are junk.

[Patrick]

I have to ask if that motor was vacuum or electric ? I grew up fixing those things but have been away from them for awhile.  Did you try taking out the glove box ?

It's electric and it's higher than the glove box plus it's in the center of the dashboard. I did have to remove the glove box last year to replace the vent fan resistor thing that controls the fan speed so I knew that was no help

OK thanks. I asked because I just changed one in a 10 year old car that had a vacuum one which I hadn't seen in quite a while. I changed the resistor in a friends F350 a month ago and it looked just like one from the 50s.  I was just thinking out loud that maybe taking the box out would have allowed for a bit more access, guess not. They sure don't make these monsters to be worked on, seems to get worse every year.

[Valkski]

Hello,
  I know how you feel, I changed the heater core in my wife's 1984 T-Bird Elan. That was a nightmare.
  Rich K ( Valk Ski )

[¿spoom]

               When's the last time anyone here gapped the points in a distributor?  RIDE SAFE.

Hee hee - this spring, dual points at that 

                 You'd Think after all this time I'd KNOW we have some older wrenches on this board!  RIDE SAFE.

[Robert]

              Most of my aircraft wrenchin was on the fine U S Navy speced stuff from Grumman iron works. Lets just say during assembly they did NOT have the Navy tech in the field or on the aircraft carrier uppermost in their minds. I had More than anyones fair share of the W T F were they thinkin moments.

 

Thanks you made me laugh because I can't tell you how many times I thought this also. Not in the service just wrenching on some cars. Like 13k to replace the starter on a Bentley Continental.

[¿spoom]

              Most of my aircraft wrenchin was on the fine U S Navy speced stuff from Grumman iron works. Lets just say during assembly they did NOT have the Navy tech in the field or on the aircraft carrier uppermost in their minds. I had More than anyones fair share of the W T F were they thinkin moments.

 

Thanks you made me laugh because I can't tell you how many times I thought this also. Not in the service just wrenching on some cars. Like 13k to replace the starter on a Bentley Continental.

But that includes the courtesy car and complimentary Grey Poupon, right?