1998 1500C project

[Davemn]

Dude, you're my hero.

[rafalc]

Just a word on the alternator repair rafalc. The problem you had is a common one on your model alt.,, there was no strain relief left on that lead as in the one to the left. If you just butted the ends together and soldered them, it will not last. If you cut the waxed string in a way that the ends can be retied and release the lead, melt a slot  in the plastic plate and undo the crimp (high heat and little time to not heat everything up and short a diode) and solder the lead in, you should have a permanent repair that will last the life of the bike. Might want to check the brushes while your in there.
   Just thinking that after you get this bike assembled, you probably won't want to be tearing into it again for awhile.   You know, scratching up your new paint.  

Any progress?

Thanks for the suggestion. If I remember right, I first wrapped a piece of copper wire around the break, then melted solder all around it instead of jut butting it, hopefully that will hold it better. The brushes still had a ways to go until the mark, bike only has 11k miles.


It's starting to look like a bike again....









Now I need to decide on rear shocks. Original thought was the progressive 412HDs but after reading some bad feeback I'm leaning towards the 444 with 140/200 spring rate. Considering I will be trimming some weight off the typical 1500C weight, riding 2 up about 50% of the time, for a total load of about 340lbs.

What do you guys think? Based on the numerous progressive 444 threads I read I will be right on the line between standard rate and HD.

[luftkoph]

Maybe Yss racing suspension USA or Ikon suspension USA

[John Schmidt]

Great work, love to see the final product. I noticed in the picture of the carbs broken down that you hadn't separated the carb bodies. If you're doing all of the rest of the work you really ought to split them enough to replace the o-rings on the fuel and air rails. Especially if the bike sat for an extended period prior to you taking possession. Those o-rings will most likely be dried out and possibly leak when fuel first applied.

[Madmike]

Gonna be a nice looking bike by the looks of the work that you've done so far.  If you want to test the fuel rails before you install the carbs you can set the carbs up on the floor with some wood blocks and then take your tank and some loose fuel line and set it up high somewhere and it will give head pressure that is way more than what you get on the bike, leave it for a while to check your bowl seals, main needles and the fuel rail orings.  Will you install a Dan Marc shutoff??

[rafalc]

Gonna be a nice looking bike by the looks of the work that you've done so far.  If you want to test the fuel rails before you install the carbs you can set the carbs up on the floor with some wood blocks and then take your tank and some loose fuel line and set it up high somewhere and it will give head pressure that is way more than what you get on the bike, leave it for a while to check your bowl seals, main needles and the fuel rail orings.  Will you install a Dan Marc shutoff??

Thanks for that. That is definitely worth checking before putting it back on the motor. And yes, the plan is to install the shutoff.

[rafalc]

Great work, love to see the final product. I noticed in the picture of the carbs broken down that you hadn't separated the carb bodies. If you're doing all of the rest of the work you really ought to split them enough to replace the o-rings on the fuel and air rails. Especially if the bike sat for an extended period prior to you taking possession. Those o-rings will most likely be dried out and possibly leak when fuel first applied.

You beat me to it!






I used that small Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner with Extreme Simple Green (Aircraft cleaner) - supposed to be safe on Aluminum which it was. I did get some corrosion starting on some brass components and regular steel screws after they sat for a week. I think the trick is to not let it sit for too long and immediately dip it / rub with WD40, Seafoam or something similar.

[larue]

Keep us posted with the progress  :cooldude been a while

[Valkorado]

I'm anxiously anticipating the next round of pictures.

[rafalc]

I'm anxiously anticipating the next round of pictures.

Not much progress.... 

Carbs all clean and back together. Tested the fuel rails and gaskets by running some fuel through it. I now see how hydrolock can be an issue. By the way, the Redeye kit is a MUST! Best rebuild kit Ive ever used.









Also been trying to decide on a final color scheme, photoshopped some examples. This is always the most difficult decision, you dont want to put it all together and not like what it looks like. Here were some of the options. Engine obviously is already red.

[yrunvs]

I'm not usually a big chrome guy but these bikes are chrome magnets. They just look awesome when the chrome shines.

[gordonv]

I feel that if you have a dual colour, you need to continue that 2nd colour over the bike. Tastefully in different area, not just one or 2 locations.

2 tone fenders, pods, and fairing, maybe a little on the tank and side covers, maybe the exhaust hangers. Sometimes it takes finding another bike with some colour placement that you like.

[Valkorado]

I'm liking the black, but I'd take the shine clean out of it and go for a matte similar to the carb covers.  Going with Gordon's idea, I'd consider running that continuous stripe (as seen on that blue and white paint scheme) right down the middle all the way from fender to fender -- except maybe a bit narrower and in red.



Maybe dark smoke flasher lenses up front. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Smoke-Turn-Signal-Lens-Lenses-Indicator-Blinkers-For-Honda-Valkyrie-1997-2000/153216484511?hash=item23ac6a049f:g:70oAAOSwQG9d-msV

Then toss a set of these on as the icing on the cake!  https://www.ebay.com/itm/291487184381



Or maybe even better these!  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Red-1-25mm-Rubber-Handlebar-Hand-Grips-Cafe-Racer-Bobber-Bike-Custom/282597895720?hash=item41cc25ae28:g:HwAAAOSwyYFaHNIs&redirect=mobile



Gotta admit that blacked out bottom picture looks pretty radical as well.

Awesome so far...  

[mello dude]

@Valkorado..Not to side track, but what is the seat on the blue bike?

[larue]

Not to side track, but what is the seat on the blue bike?

I believe it's a Corbin stinger

[rafalc]

Moving slowly but moving ....

Radiator cleaned, fins straightened out, touched up with radiator black, new hoses
Wire harness cleaned and re-taped, all terminals cleaned
Valve covers...still on the fence and considering changing to black. Have to see how everything will look back together
Alternator and starter installed
Progressive 444 13" HD shocks - for those wondering, it was a plug and play with no mods required except for using the included smaller diameter lower bolt sleeve on the left side
Switches disassembled, cleaned, greased, painted satin black

[The emperor has no clothes]

Looking good 

[Madmike]

........ thing of beauty.......

[Jims99]

For paint colors, I like chrome, second picture. But going blacked out, I think the third picture looks great. Everything is looking really good, can't wait to see more.

[larue]

I'm loving it

[Farside]

Not to side track, but what is the seat on the blue bike?

I believe it's a Corbin stinger

I have a Corbin Stinger and they are more tapered at the tail end than what this one looks like.  

[Ken aka Oil Burner]

Not to side track, but what is the seat on the blue bike?

I believe it's a Corbin stinger

I have a Corbin Stinger and they are more tapered at the tail end than what this one looks like.  

Possibly a Saddlemen Profiler?  https://saddlemen.com/motorcycle-seats/profiler-seat-valkyrie-honda

[Valkorado]

Ya this is gonna be fun to see...

[rafalc]

Getting closer....

Fuel shutoff valve mounted using basic items











I really wanted to make it work this way (more room, cleaner look) but decided to use the other carb crossmember to avoid the fuel supply line turn








Rear brake, airbox, breather tubes, ignition, coils/wires installed. I installed the carb and airbox before moving onto the coil and wires - big mistake, should have done coils/wires first.

[larue]

That's one clean inside out build my friend, speechless 

[The emperor has no clothes]

I don't know if it will be an issue. But the rubber around the electric fuel shutoff might insulate the solenoid to the point of it overheating. Something to keep an eye on I think.

[rafalc]

That's one clean inside out build my friend, speechless 

Thanks. I can almost see the finish line...

[rafalc]

I don't know if it will be an issue. But the rubber around the electric fuel shutoff might insulate the solenoid to the point of it overheating. Something to keep an eye on I think.

Good point. I think I may lift the box out of the way and trim that rubber, leave only the width I need for the metal clamp.

[Madmike]

Coming along nicely.  Is that clear/yellow line rated for fuel??  Ihave seen a similar product used for diesel return line and it really hardens with age.  Who manufactured/marketed that fuel solenoid, looks interesting.  Nice work.

[Bagger John - #3785]

Which paint did you use for block, valve covers, etc?

[rafalc]

Coming along nicely.  Is that clear/yellow line rated for fuel??  Ihave seen a similar product used for diesel return line and it really hardens with age.  Who manufactured/marketed that fuel solenoid, looks interesting.  Nice work.

Its a Tygon hose rated for fuel and lubricants. It is very flexible and is supposed to not harden over time .... almost too flexible.

[rafalc]

Which paint did you use for block, valve covers, etc?

Eastwood 2K Engine Primer and Engine Paint in gloss red. It was a pain to spray though, and a mixed can only lasts 24hrs so forget about small touch ups the next day or so. I hope it holds up better than other non-2K paint as advertised.

Frame, brackets, etc. used Eastwood Extreme Chassis satin black (combination of 2K and regular).

[Flrider]

Wow!!!

Nice project and I can see there is a lot attention to detail, can't wait to see the finished product 

I like the handlebars, where did they come from?

[rafalc]

Wow!!!

Nice project and I can see there is a lot attention to detail, can't wait to see the finished product 

I like the handlebars, where did they come from?

Thanks. The bars came with the bike, not sure 100% as to what they are. I think they might be drag specialties tattoo series raised drag bars (flame engravings) but just guessing.

[Flrider]

Wow!!!

Nice project and I can see there is a lot attention to detail, can't wait to see the finished product 

I like the handlebars, where did they come from?

Thanks. The bars came with the bike, not sure 100% as to what they are. I think they might be drag specialties tattoo series raised drag bars (flame engravings) but just guessing.

Thanks for the response. 

Definitely keeping my eyes on your progress. 

[rafalc]

Been a while since the last update.... bike is up and running!

Synched the carbs with a DigiSync. The thing is great, I don't know why anyone would want to do it without one. One thing I did notice is that there is a difference of about 200rpms between a tach which uses the stock tach wire/signal and the DigiSync. DigiSync shows the higher reading. Which do you think is the more true reading?




Also installed the shifter bracket and the difference is night and day. The only thing to watch out for is that it is not ideal with 6-6 Cobra pipes. The shifter shaft needs to be rotated back a bit, otherwise it will hit the pipe on a downshift. This then causes the bracket to be at its upper limit (of the curved cutout).




SS braided black brake and clutch lines. I recommend Galfer over Spiegler especially for the rear. Spiegler rear kit only includes a short 8" piece, and you still have to use the pipe and the rear rubber piece (what's the point for braided if you still have a rubber piece?) Galfer gives you the entire long braided length.

Mounted the front T in the stock location.






Some extra shots of front controls finished, Intellitronix tach, Kury Riot mini floorboards and passenger pegs.












Bike is running smooth, sounds amazing and pulls STRONG! Some backfire at deceleration, will try to turn out the mixture screws more, I think I'm already 2.5-2.75 out.

Next up a lot of fabrication for side covers, fender modifications, maybe a custom modular sissy bar. Maybe a seat mod...I feel like the Corbin pushes me too far towards the front. Also, might have to make some foot peg lowering brackets. With the Cobra 6-6 the pipes are in the way, the bracket would need to push out the pegs at least .5" before I can move them down some.

[Ken aka Oil Burner]

Looking fantastic! Can't wait to see the finished (if there ever really is a finished) product.

[gordonv]

The digi counts the pulse of vacuum, the one off the coil would be more reliable and accurate.

[mello dude]

Been a while since the last update.... bike is up and running!

SS braided black break and clutch lines. I recommend Galfer over Spiegler especially for the rear. Spiegler rear kit only includes a short 8" piece, and you still have to use the pipe and the rear rubber piece (what's the point for braided if you still have a rubber piece?) Galfer gives you the entire long braided length.

On the rear SS line, I had to make the same choice... I went with new OEM pipe and the rubber part to the master cylinder, and then getting the short line at the very rear. Knowing the SS lines are stiff as you know what, I didnt want to fight routing them around the swing arm similar to OEM....


Could you post a pic of the shifter assist bracket install?  thx

And have you decided on what to do with the passenger seat? - That's an item on my fix list too. Really havent started it yet, other than lookin at websites...  

btw - its Brakes.... not Breaks.... I'm only anal because and worked in automotive brake engineering for 6 years...  

[The emperor has no clothes]

The digi counts the pulse of vacuum, the one off the coil would be more reliable and accurate.

I always assumed the DigiSynch was more precise because of the analog meter.