Rear wheel and drive shaft removal and installation and help needed.

[hubcapsc]

Question?

How often should you replace wheel dampers? Mine looked fine when I took the wheel off, no cracking, etc. I'm just wonder if like all rubber pieces the performance drops with time or is it something you don't worry about until they fail? 

When you have the wheel off, feel the slack in them each time. They'll
seem looser on the next tire... when you go to change a tire and they
seem real loose and especially if there's a bunch of rubber dust in there,
that's when I change them... when we were kids and didn't have two
dimes to rub together, we'd let the dampers in our little enduro bikes
go too long, I ruined a hub that way... one "trick" we used to get by
was to enhance the worn dampers with RTV, kind of like RonW's
shimming suggestion... changing them out every so often is the
best bet, though...

-Mike

[..]

Thanks for that. I had an older Triumph and it had a one unit five sectioned damper. Partzilla seems to have some good pricing for oem parts. Damper, shock bushings and thrust washer are in the cart any other items I should consider? I'd like to find the air cut off tubes maybe an email to Redeye will do that.

Sometimes it's worth a price check here.

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/l/hon/5054120ff870021c54bee675/1998-gl1500ct-a-parts

[yrunvs]

Thanks for that. I had an older Triumph and it had a one unit five sectioned damper. Partzilla seems to have some good pricing for oem parts. Damper, shock bushings and thrust washer are in the cart any other items I should consider? I'd like to find the air cut off tubes maybe an email to Redeye will do that.

Sometimes it's worth a price check here.

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/l/hon/5054120ff870021c54bee675/1998-gl1500ct-a-parts

Holy Crap! ron ayers site is way cheaper! Thanks for the link you just saved me a bunch!

I have a 2000 Standard model so is this the correct version 2000 HONDA GL1500A A ?? Their are 10 different GL1500 choices when choosing your model for oem parts.

[hubcapsc]

On the wheel dampers... buy the Interstate kind, not the stinky old fashioned expen$ive STD/Tourer kind.

The Interstate dampers have the metal part infused into the rubber, the old kind come
in two parts, you have to buy the rubber part and the metal part and fit them together
and it costs a lot more...

-Mike

[..]

Thanks for that. I had an older Triumph and it had a one unit five sectioned damper. Partzilla seems to have some good pricing for oem parts. Damper, shock bushings and thrust washer are in the cart any other items I should consider? I'd like to find the air cut off tubes maybe an email to Redeye will do that.

Sometimes it's worth a price check here.

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/l/hon/5054120ff870021c54bee675/1998-gl1500ct-a-parts

Holy Crap! ron ayers site is way cheaper! Thanks for the link you just saved me a bunch!

[gordonv]

I'm just wonder if like all rubber pieces the performance drops with time or is it something you don't worry about until they fail? 

I don't think you need to worry until they fail.

Then get the IS model ones for replacement, they are a single unit, instead of 2 pieces (cheaper).

[yrunvs]

I'm just wonder if like all rubber pieces the performance drops with time or is it something you don't worry about until they fail? 

I don't think you need to worry until they fail.

Then get the IS model ones for replacement, they are a single unit, instead of 2 pieces (cheaper).

On the Ron Ayers website the best I can figure is that the Standard model and the Interstate model have the same Part number for the damper see below.

The interstate
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2f84f870023420a31b9d/rear-wheel

The Standard
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/hon/506cb6b9f870023420a4194c/rear-wheel

[Jess from VA]

After the '99 Interstate came out with the newer better part, Honda later discontinued the earlier 2-piece parts, and substituted the improved part in the older model parts fishes.  All dampers fit all models

Several improved parts came out with Interstates, and they were substituted for earlier 97-8 Tourer/Std parts, but I can't name them all. 

[Willow]

I'm just wonder if like all rubber pieces the performance drops with time or is it something you don't worry about until they fail? 

I don't think you need to worry until they fail.

Then get the IS model ones for replacement, they are a single unit, instead of 2 pieces (cheaper).

As explanation for a new guy they don't suddenly fail.  They just get looser and looser until they need to be replaced.  They won't suddenly leave you stranded.

[SCain]

The easiest trick to get things back together, is to run the axle through the pumpkin and wheel, but leave the brake caliper and spacer off the other side (do not forget the internal wheel spacer tube or thrust washer).  With the axle all the way through, the wheel is now straight and level, and you don't have to ruin your back trying to hold it up, and you should be able to mate things together properly.  Also, some new Orings are a bit fatter than others, and those have caused difficulty in the mating process.  With everything mated properly, then pull the axle back out just enough to add the caliper and spacer.

Also there is a groove in the metal and on reassembly it seems intuitive that the plastic guard should cover the groove.... but it doesn't.   This is where before (and after) pictures can come in handy, though I've never done it.

This is good advise, get everything lined up on the axle and then slide the wheel over and into place, put the bike in gear. Slide the axle back just flush and install the spacer and caliper bracket.

[RonW]

This is another member's pic which I saved to my photo files. If there were pics of the 2 different type rear rims, I think it'll make more sense. I'm guessing the rims have different profiles. There's more than just the raised or flush bolts to it.

[h13man]

One last question just to double check......If I got it all back together with no extra parts and the wheel spins smoothly and quietly and I torqued down the drive shaft last and the brakes work fine and the thrush washer is in the correct place and the test ride seemed normal.... is it fair to say all is well??

Sounds like you did it correct to me. I would definitely go with new shock bushings. Handling will improve. The VTX ones are better.

https://redeye.ecrater.com/p/18385698/rear-shock-bushing-kit-ver-2

[yrunvs]

Yes I just received and installed Redeyes shock bushings yesterday