Interstate headlight change

[Mike M in ohio]

     Despite the twenty-two degree weather on Sunday, I took the Valk for a 50 mile spin to the ocean and back. Upon return, noticed that one of the two headlights was out. My service manual only shows a change procedure for the standard, so, I wanted to ask if there was any strange proceedures or details I should be aware of on the Interstate. I assume the decorative chrome trim is removed first, than similar bulb swap as with the standard. But advise me if there are any cautions or surprises within. Thanks much to all. This latest task will give me something to do during wed-thursday's big snowstorm.            Mike

[Rio Wil]

You don't need to disassemble any part of the fairing.  Just reach up to the back side of the light socket from the inside bottom of the fairing.  Remove the plug, rubber weather boot, unsnap the spring like retainer and remove the lamp.  (somewhat a test of manual dexterity)  If using a oem lamp, just reverse the procedure, be sure not to touch the glass portion of the lamp(clean with alcohol if you do). I suggest replacing both lamps, cause I betcha in a few months the other one will go.  The 9003 bulb will fit, some folks leave the tabs as is, others cut two of the tabs off and use a adapter ring available on ebay.

[Jess from VA]

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/interstateheadlight.htm

[Ricky-D]

When the bulb went out in my I/S I went ahead and changed it.
It wasn't a month later that the other bulb went out!

I guess what I'm trying to communicate is that you ought to go ahead and change both and avoid the headache.

I have since purchased those rings so that I can use standard auto bulbs instead of the expensive muthas from Honda.

It's pretty close now to the time where I expect one or the other to burn out.

I remove the speaker panel to get a better access to the back of the headlight.

***

[Friagabi]

Turn the front wheel away from the side the bad bulb is on. If you have a hand that is challenged to get a good grip on a pencil reach up along side of the front down leg and just above the aiming adjustment you will fine the bulb boot. Roll this back and release the spring retainer. Pull the bad bulb and then disconnect the plug and then remove the boot. If your hand is a little bigger then it is a little more of a problem. If you have made it this far without problems take a look at the spring retainer. Once done its like a side cover removal wihout breaking off the clip. Or falling out of bed. Not near as hard the second time.

[sugerbear]

and, DON'T take the screw out of the retaining clip.

if your hands are too big, let the wife, daughter, son etc do it.

[Cattman]

I use a 12" pair of 90 degree needle nose pliars to place the bulb and are attach the spring. A good flashlite helps too.

[Ricky-D]

Trying to remember, it seems that there are two bolts that hold the fairing at the top.

You can access to bolts by removing the chrome trim that carries the "HONDA" lettering that finishes the bottom of the clear windshield.

If you take those bolts loose you can simply rotate the whole fairing toward the front to reveal the backside of the headlight module.  You gain very easy access to the bulb connectors this way.

There's a little more to it than I describe and I am not recommending doing this but simply suggesting an alternative to the very restricting access problem you would encounter otherwise.

***

[Mike M in ohio]

Thanks for the specific directions everyone. I DO have one last request: I went to local Honda dealer to buy two bulbs. (One for spare) They had none in house, but the service tech said to just bring bulb to any auto supply and they can match it with a cheaper auto bulb. I seem to remember some talk of needing an adapter ring to do this. ARE there any bulbs, not Honda-made that are exact replacement? If so, do you know the number. Thanks again, Mike

[Joe Hummer]

Hey Mike,

Check the Shoptalk page referenced above, it gives the auto replacement bulb that you can use with on the IS...the 9003.  All you have to do is clip the bottom two tangs and it will fit in the stock housing.  I have not used the adapter ring and don't have any problems with aim or fitment. 

Joe

[BobAnth]

I am writing in this old topic because many riders are faceing the light bulb problems. It is a real  to get your hand up in the light socket. So bite the bullet and remove the speaker housing, remove the four small screws (do not loose them, special screws) carefully holding the assembly, pull the speaker plug wire connections apart (DO NOT pull the wires to do this)
The original bulb for the headlamps are Phillips halogen 45 watt and tab specific, no other 9003 bulb will work without modification (removing the 2 lower tabs and keeping the top tab. I have not been able to locate the conversion ring.
You can still find the original Phillips halogen light bulb if you want or put a 9003 halogen with tabs removed, it will stll sit in the bulb socket and once clipped in be solid. OR come into the modern age and replace the Halogen bulb with Bright LED 50 watt 9003 bulbs. You do not need any fans atteched to cool them, they come with a heat sink built on them  and have the low and high beam on the bulb.  I have been using OXILAM H4 9003 LED Headlight High/Low Beam 6000K Bulb Fit Motorcycle , 2 for less than 30 bucks. You still have to remove the lower tabs. Like all replacement bulbs, you may have make headlight adjustments. Don't put the speaker panel back untill you check for proper headlight projection. The high/low adjuster is the white wheel just above the socket. I recommend a flashlight or head light to do any of the work or a shop light, it's dark working in the tight areas.

[gordonv]

I couldn't get my hand in easily enough, so I went and got my skinny sister with her dainty little hands to replace the bulb and place the bracket back one.