News:

If you're new to this message board, read THIS!

Main Menu
VRCC Calendar Ad

I’m no mechanic

Started by Sixgunluvr, Sat 06, Dec 2025, 15:01:06

Previous topic - Next topic

Sixgunluvr

But I did get the carb rack out with no problems. Some say the air box is a pain, but I took a tip to take the clamps off first and then reach in and keep the legs together as best you can and it slips right out. The plastic guard the shields the radiator/hose now that was a pain. Just have to squeeze it together as it slips out up through the top like the air box did. The plastic would have been more pliable if it was warm.     All in all no trouble going from parked with a full tank off gas to looking for a box to put the carb rack in in just 2-3hrs.
 I did not remove any mounting brackets. I did not fully remove the fuel selector.





I did take the wiring harness off the small frame studs. Removed the coil on the left and used a couple zip ties to keep things out of the way. I've read using zip ties when reinstalling the air box is a huge help.  

98valk

#1
no reason to remove the radiator shield. the tech manual instructs to move the upper engine mounts out of the way.
air box goes in and out much easier when done taken out and put in vertically end to end.
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

Sixgunluvr

#2
Quote from: 98valk on Sat 06, Dec 2025, 16:50:49

air box goes in and out much easier when done taken out and put in vertically end to end.

I simply tried to keep the end pointed upward and squeezed the legs of the air box together two at a time, and worked it out, was no hassle at all/slipped right out. I did not have to remove any engine mount bolts, regardless of what the manual says.

Sixgunluvr

All slicked up and ready for re install.


Sixgunluvr

Update from the guy working on my carbs.  



Less than 9,000 miles on the bike....but 22yrs old.

Sixgunluvr

#5
So I got the back back and put it all back together....start it up and fuel started leaking out the fuel overflow tube.  Ugh... took it all back apart. Sent it back. Got it back again...put it all back together again. Finally..everything seems ok.  The rack was definitely dropped because I had to bend the end of the rack rear plate to line up the screw holes for the chrome throttle cable cover.  Glad to be done with that ordeal.  Not really as complicated as I thought, just tedious.......   DRay, where wherever you are, I couldn't have done it without you. I did not remove any mounting brackets to remove the rack. I did not remove the fuel selector/just loosened the screw and pulled it down a bit.
  I live 8min from ethanol free gas, so I plan to fill up with that as much as possible. Next on my list is to change the oil and then digisync.  For now I'm gonna ride and enjoy for a month.


rug_burn

Ahh, the memories.    Many of us have spent a lot of time in that crowded forest of hoses and intake plumbing.  It'll happen again for me too soon, I'm sure.   Could use some diaphragms cheap right now.
    Looks like you got it under control.
   Thanks-
...insert hip saying here..

98valk

Quote from: Sixgunluvr on Sun 11, Jan 2026, 17:30:05
Update from the guy working on my carbs.  



Less than 9,000 miles on the bike....but 22yrs old.

nice how the guy cut each one the same way.
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798