My old deck is an embarrassment

[Jess from VA]

Built on the ground off the back of my house over 30 years ago, out of the 'good' pressure treat, 24 feet wide by 16 foot long.  Only a hack carpenter myself, but back then I had a retired Navy chief neighbor who was a master carpenter, and we got along famously.  Me just out of the Air Force (9 yrs), we would trade military stories, and drink a lot of beer.  He was an old Alabama boy, had been a deep water sailor all over the world, and funny as hell and kept me in stitches.  He taught me to use the tools, and measure the wood and he would supervise while I worked.

When finished, I sanded and stained it, and it looked like a beautiful gymnasium floor.  He was also an expert electrician, and we ran 220 out there and put a very nice Jacuzzi 4 man hot tub on it, as well as a 5 foot tall concrete fountain (which was a big mistake with water damage over the years).  The wife and I would entertain with other couples out there.

Fast forward to today, the fountain is gone and so is the Jacuzzi.  I no longer use the deck for anything but a work area (occasionally).  Age, water damage and rot are covered with pieces of scrap lumber, mostly plywood, but also a patchwork of 1X4, 1X6, 2X4 pieces.  I've stained it down dark to sort of hide the embarrassment.  I just came in from covering two new holes my foot could go through.  

I've thought about repairing it, but it would take 23 pressure treat eight foot 2X6's ($$), and hours yanking out 4" twist nails with a crowbar, but I'm not doing it.  (Only a few of the deck boards are bad all the way across, most are just bad on one end, and the frame underneath remains good and solid.) 

Fortunately, it cannot be seen from the street/sidewalk (and the nice handrail around the outside which can be seen is still in excellent shape).  It's just a hard use work area that is rarely used.  

I do not post my own pictures on here and would be too embarrassed to do it if I could.  

   

[da prez]

  Do a little destruction bit by bit. It will soon disappear.  A stone step and pavers will clean it up.

                                     da prez

[Jess from VA]

Ross, it's still a solid deck (with solid though ugly repairs), I'm not going to tear it off.  It just doesn't look very good.  

I have a lot of stone around the place too.  It doesn't wear out.  

[Serk]

My brain swapped the e for an i and I was thinking WoW! Ole' Jess is REALLY oversharing these days!

But seriously... Repair/replace the structurally bad boards, then cover the whole thing in outdoor carpeting?

[Jess from VA]

My brain swapped the e for an i and I was thinking WoW! Ole' Jess is REALLY oversharing these days!    My e for i, is doing remarkably well.  Good thing since I have to pee through it 47 times a day.  

But seriously... Repair/replace the structurally bad boards, then cover the whole thing in outdoor carpeting?

I'm not replacing 23 eight foot boards on a deck I use maybe once a month, and if I did, covering a deck with carpet is a terrible idea.  But thanks for weighing in.  

[Jersey mike]

If just the surface boards are in bad shape, then you still have something to build on. Is everything on 16" centers?

You could either go the easy way with pressure treated 3/4" plywood and throw some of that outdoor grass carpet over it or have a pro come in and fiberglass it or have a pro come in and put a decking product similar to Trex installed.

[Jess from VA]

I believe it is 16" on centers.

I'm not fixing it beyond what I've done, although I have some better plywood I can use when the weather is warmer and will get out my circular saw.  I still have piles of ice back there from the big storm 3 weeks ago.

I'm not paying anyone to do what I won't do.

With a deck that will likely require continuing repair, I would never cover it with carpet which would hide the damage and have to be removed for additional repairs.   

If I really feel energetic, when it warms up and I get it better repaired, I will power wash it and stain it again (mainly for weatherproof, not looks).  

[Jersey mike]

I believe it is 16" on centers.

I'm not fixing it beyond what I've done, although I have some better plywood I can use when the weather is warmer and will get out my circular saw.  I still have piles of ice back there from the big storm 3 weeks ago.

I'm not paying anyone to do what I won't do.

With a deck that will likely require continuing repair, I would never cover it with carpet which would hide the damage and have to be removed for additional repairs.   

If I really feel energetic, when it warms up and I get it better repaired, I will power wash it and stain it again (mainly for weatherproof, not looks).  

Sorry Jess, it seemed as though you didn't want to have a dangerous situation on hand and didn't want to be the one pulling up the old P/T lumber. I was just trying to offer up some new options that would be available in case you were interested in something else.

[Jess from VA]

No apology necessary Mike, this post was intended to invite comments, suggestions and ideas.

And to make guys laugh.   

I covered the two new holes, so there's no more danger (although some of my patches are small trip hazards).   

[Hook#3287]

Cover it with metal roofing.

Just kidding.

If the joists and beams are still structurally sound, replacing the deck should not be overly difficult and should take 2 competent carpenters about a day, based on your stated size.

But, then there's guard system and stairs, if any.

My 35+ deck is starting to show its age, but so am I, so we'll age together.

Some of the deck boards are comprised and need replacement, so I just don't look there and stay clear when walking by.

[Jess from VA]

Cover it with metal roofing.

Just kidding.

If the joists and beams are still structurally sound, replacing the deck should not be overly difficult and should take 2 competent carpenters about a day, based on your stated size.

But, then there's guard system and stairs, if any.

My 35+ deck is starting to show its age, but so am I, so we'll age together.

Some of the deck boards are comprised and need replacement, so I just don't look there and stay clear when walking by.

The deck sits on the ground Bill, so there's just one easy step up from the concrete walk that runs to it.

The outside handrail (4X4 uprights with lattice) is perfect.  The underlying framework is good.

The inside half of the deck that butts the house is also near perfect.  But the outside corner that had the stupid water fountain on it is patched with plywood which is mostly solid, but has some spongy spots I avoid. 

With no garage, I stored a bunch of scrap lumber and plywood by screwing it vertically to my 7' fence behind the 2 sheds and covered it with vinyl sheeting, so it has stayed pretty solid (and I did such a good job I have not wanted to rip it all off to use for salvage).  All my previous patches have been made with whatever I could find, a little at a time, and it shows.

I've decided what I need to do is uncover it and see what I have, and/or buy new plywood, tear off all the old patches and do a better job than the hodgepodge that's on there now.

I will not restore it properly with deck boards, but I will do a better more solid plywood repair.  Eventually.   

[Hook#3287]

I definitely get it Jess.

Lately, my attitude on house maintenance is "It's only got last as long as me"

[h13man]

I'm looking at 32 yr. old 10'x12' deck removal this year but @ 26" above ground level. Sawsall will be the primary removal tool.

[Jess from VA]

I definitely get it Jess.

Lately, my attitude on house maintenance is "It's only got last as long as me"

That's exactly my attitude too Bill.  

After all the discussion in this thread, I got out there today (breezy 50) and uncovered my wood, and found some good plywood, and spent all afternoon improving my patchwork.

Got out the tape measures, hammer, drills, screws, builder's square, circular saw, pry bar, but none of that makes me a good carpenter.  

All but one of my poor spongy old repairs is now solid (for a while anyway).

The last one needs a much bigger piece of wood than I have, but it won't let your foot go through unless you jump up and down on it.  

[Jersey mike]

I definitely get it Jess.

Lately, my attitude on house maintenance is "It's only got last as long as me"

That's exactly my attitude too Bill.  

After all the discussion in this thread, I got out there today (breezy 50) and uncovered my wood, and found some good plywood, and spent all afternoon improving my patchwork.

Got out the tape measures, hammer, drills, screws, builder's square, circular saw, pry bar, but none of that makes me a good carpenter.  

All but one of my poor spongy old repairs is now solid (for a while anyway).

The last one needs a much bigger piece of wood than I have, but it won't let your foot go through unless you jump up and down on it.  

Safety first Jess.

Worry about ascetics later when the time is right and the weather is more cooperative.

[Jess from VA]

It's just an old beat up patched deck.  The rest of the yard back there is pretty much a mud hole anyway, although having the two giant old oaks back there severely trimmed back will let more light back in for grass, I'm not going to try and get lawn going.... the heck with that.

My contractor buddy told me to just tear it off.  No way I'm doing that, and just make more mud hole.

It remains a good dry work area for other projects, and now safe to walk (or drink beer) on.    

[Jess from VA]

I needed stuff at the Home Depot this morning, and while there I looked at plywood.

Holy crap is that stuff expensive. 

They sell smaller pieces than 4 X 8', but I failed to measure the last piece I need to complete my final repair.  But at those prices I'll probably just use some more old stuff I have laying around. 

[John97]

I'm looking at 32 yr. old 10'x12' deck removal this year but @ 26" above ground level. Sawsall will be the primary removal tool.

Last summer I removed my deck. When I bought my house 16 years ago the deck was 3 years old and basically unused and the owners died right after installing it. Then I watched it turn to crap due to boards butted together, inclined toward the house posts just set into holes in the ground, wiring laid on the ground and just covered with lava rock etc. At the beginning it was beautiful and the end I barely was able to salvage a few joists. I also eliminated the 24' pool. Sawzall was my best friend. He burned up so sawzall #2 became my best friend.

Good thing I removed it as this winter my septic failed and I had to replace all the pipe from in my crawlspace to an unknown about tank that was under the former deck. Why two tanks? No idea but #1 was buried and found by accident. I also had to jackhammer out a 8'x4' concrete pad that was hidden by the deck to access the pipe. It would have been even worse if I'd had to destroy a good deck to fix the septic.

So now I have a 24' circle of sand and a muddy mess where a crappy deck once stood. I love owning my home.

[Jess from VA]

Good story John.    The joy of home ownership never stops.  

My sump pump discharge runs under my deck, and 30 years ago I did a really crummy job of running the water line out there.  Then built the ground level deck over it with no thought in my stupid mind.  It has never failed, but I would also have to tear all or part of the deck off if it ever did.  

But every time it rains long and hard enough to get that sump pump working, I start worrying and crawling back in my basement corner (behind/beside a big refrigerator), to make sure it isn't backing up.  I have battery and 110vt submersible pumps ready.  But only have ever needed them in a power outage.

I have finally completed all my deck repairs with good dry plywood.  I admit to being a bit afraid of my circular saw, but that thing cuts straighter lines than I can ever do with my battery sawzall.  Every single repair can now be jumped up and down on without fear of going through.  Got it all stained/waterproofed too, so it should be good for years to come.  It doesn't look good, but it works good.      And it beats the heck out of the big mudhole that the rest of that backyard is.  

[Hook#3287]

I'm looking at 32 yr. old 10'x12' deck removal this year but @ 26" above ground level. Sawsall will be the primary removal tool.

Last summer I removed my deck. When I bought my house 16 years ago the deck was 3 years old and basically unused and the owners died right after installing it. Then I watched it turn to crap due to boards butted together, inclined toward the house posts just set into holes in the ground, wiring laid on the ground and just covered with lava rock etc. At the beginning it was beautiful and the end I barely was able to salvage a few joists. I also eliminated the 24' pool. Sawzall was my best friend. He burned up so sawzall #2 became my best friend.

Good thing I removed it as this winter my septic failed and I had to replace all the pipe from in my crawlspace to an unknown about tank that was under the former deck. Why two tanks? No idea but #1 was buried and found by accident. I also had to jackhammer out a 8'x4' concrete pad that was hidden by the deck to access the pipe. It would have been even worse if I'd had to destroy a good deck to fix the septic.

So now I have a 24' circle of sand and a muddy mess where a crappy deck once stood. I love owning my home.

Was the wiring for the pool?

You could get a RC model car or 4 wheeler and do laps in the circle.

[John97]

The pool pump/filter and an outlet. Romex just lying on the ground. There are some good things and some bad things about living just outside city limits here. Not having to follow building codes regarding electrical stuff sucks for the owner some years down the road. A single stall garage was added onto my double and they ran wires from the fuse box (removed) in the 2 car over to a shiny new breaker box in the single garage. There are quite a few unused breakers yet my bathroom, laundry room and machines hallway and kitchen including all appliances are on one circuit. I'm not an electrician by any means but I know I wouldn't have done that.

[Hook#3287]

I was wondering because of you stated 2 Tanks. One could have been a pump chamber, which would need power.

Anything in the electrical code might as well be Chinese to me.  My knowledge is very limited there and I plan on keeping it that way.

I deal with a lot of people that feel that pesky building code is for everyone else, not them.

Some find out the hard way when they sell, or their family does after they're gone.

[Rams]

Generally speaking, it's not uncommon to be required to have two septic tanks.   The first being primarily used to catch solids, the second for waste water and grease waste , although the second tank will normally also receive some of the finer solid waste.  There are three layers of waste in a septic tank, the solid waste on the bottom, waste water in the middle and grease on top.

Rams

[Hook#3287]

Generally speaking, it's not uncommon to be required to have two septic tanks.   The first being primarily used to catch solids, the second for waste water and grease waste , although the second tank will normally also receive some of the finer solid waste.  There are three layers of waste in a septic tank, the solid waste on the bottom, waste water in the middle and grease on top.

Rams

Maybe it's a statewide or regional thing, but in my area, all new residential septic systems I've seen are tank, d-box, fields.

Only reason for two tanks is in a pump-up system.

I've seen grease traps in commercial systems, depending on use.

Heath codes, being state control, vary, so two tanks could be the standard in other areas than my experience.

But, this all has to do with the John97 finding a electrical cable just laid in the dirt.

I know that there are types of cable that can have ground contact, but my understanding is they are to be at least 18" under grade W/ caution tape over.

It's amazing what people do, putting themselves and future occupants in danger.

[Jess from VA]

I know that there are types of cable that can have ground contact, but my understanding is they are to be at least 18" under grade W/ caution tape over.

It's amazing what people do, putting themselves and future occupants in danger.

That 18" depth for electric cable is my local code too.  Over 30 years ago, I ran 110 electric from the house to my two sheds in the back of my back yard, and using an ax to cut my summertime solid clay soil got old, so I only buried it about 8-10" but I covered it all with 2X4 pressure treat boards (the good old pressure treat), and have been very careful out there ever since.  Never had a problem so far.   

[Rams]

While building my shop, I investigated and learned my local code required electrical lines be buried at 2 feet below surface and in conduit.  No surprises there but I did expect an 18 inch depth.

I have since discovered I want more electrical power in my shop than previously planned for.  So now I will be fishing another wire through that same conduit from my home to the shop.

I'm did not want to have to run another line from the street to the shop which also would have required another meter (at commercial rates) on my shop.

Rams

[Hook#3287]

While building my shop, I investigated and learned my local code required electrical lines be buried at 2 feet below surface and in conduit.  No surprises there but I did expect an 18 inch depth.

I have since discovered I want more electrical power in my shop than previously planned for.  So now I will be fishing another wire through that same conduit from my home to the shop.

I'm did not want to have to run another line from the street to the shop which also would have required another meter (at commercial rates) on my shop.

Rams

Ah, the wonders of the electrical codes.  It's Chinese to me

Having a conduit already in place sure makes adding easier.