2003 Valkyrie Standard Clutch Issue

[carolinarider09]

I have an issue with the "clutch" on my 2003 Valkyrie Standard a threee or four months ago.  I rebuilt the Master Cylinder and verified it did work just by using the clutch in the garage and verify it allowed me to shift as I moved the bike. 

I have not had the chance to ride the bike until today.  However, I thought that, every time I was in the garage and had access to the bike, I did check the clutch lever for "firmness". 

Well today was to be a "test ride" for the entire bike.  I park my bikes in neutral so, I rolled the Valk out of the garage and then pressed the clutch lever and there was no "effort" required. 

So, I suspect I need to rebuild the clutch slave cylinder.   But, I'd rather just replace the whole unit. 

Here is a link to the part I think is correct.  I just want some to verify it's the correct part.


Slave Clutch on Parzilla

Thanks.

[98valk]

easy to rebuild.

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/gl1500-why-to-rebuild-clutch-slave-cylinder.372581/

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/slave-cylinder-gl1500.675160/#post-6000573


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/changing-the-clutch-on-a-gl1500.344127/

[John Schmidt]

FWIW, I never park in neutral when not running. If I or someone should bump it in a motion that moves it forward, over it goes. Many bikes won't move that easy, many do depending partly on how far over it leans when parked. The more vertical the bike is on the side stand, the easier to knock it over. In years past I've been the guilty party and caused that current ride to move slightly and over it went. Just my opinion based on experience, others may(and will) differ. 

[Chrisj CMA]

Probably just needs to properly bled

[98valk]

I have an issue with the "clutch" on my 2003 Valkyrie Standard a threee or four months ago.  I rebuilt the Master Cylinder and verified it did work just by using the clutch in the garage and verify it allowed me to shift as I moved the bike. 

I have not had the chance to ride the bike until today.  However, I thought that, every time I was in the garage and had access to the bike, I did check the clutch lever for "firmness". 

Well today was to be a "test ride" for the entire bike.  I park my bikes in neutral so, I rolled the Valk out of the garage and then pressed the clutch lever and there was no "effort" required. 

So, I suspect I need to rebuild the clutch slave cylinder.   But, I'd rather just replace the whole unit. 

Here is a link to the part I think is correct.  I just want some to verify it's the correct part.


Slave Clutch on Parzilla

Thanks.

the link u have is for the rear brake cylinder.

use Dot 4 LV for a firmer feel in wider range of temps and change out is extended  from 2-3 yrs to 3-4 yrs.

[carolinarider09]

the link u have is for the rear brake cylinder.

use Dot 4 LV for a firmer feel in wider range of temps and change out is extended  from 2-3 yrs to 3-4 yrs.

Thanks.  I had to do some real work verify your statement just because I like to double check.  I checked the website I linked several times and it took some real work to find the right part. 

So, I looked for another site besides Partzilla and found the part here.

(22860-MZ0-000)

And then I went back to Parzilla and yes, the same part was there. 

I have no idea how theses companies run these "parts" websites. 

Will be verifying the need before purchasing.  There might just be a leak in the clutch fluid hydraulic system.  I am sure I checked it several times while the bike was sitting (I replaced the fuel supply valve on the tank).  It was full (or showed liquid in the sight glass).  Anyway I filled the clutch fluid reservoir up and it had no pressure. So I will bleed again and see if I a determine if the slave cylinder is truly leaking. Or is it something else.

[TTG53#1717]

I bought a slave rebuilding kit on eBay and was fortunate to have a reasonably clean cylinder to start with.

Access to the unit is a pita having to remove the side stand bracket but the job itself is straightforward and was a complete success.

It then allowed me to confirm that my pressure plate was one of the early defects and needed replacing.👎

A Harbor Freight vacuum brake bleeding tool made things easier on the fluid side.

Reference...

https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,131068.0.html

[Chrisj CMA]

Try reverse bleeding. Drain the master then, using a syringe push fluid up into the master from the bleeder. Do this before taking anything apart. This fixed a clutch for me that was acting just like yours

[carolinarider09]

Ok, this is an update and a report about the current status.

First some "history".  I have always had a mental issue with the location of the brake and clutch reservoirs.  When "my" bikes handlebars are positioned for a straight forward move by the bike, both of these reservoirs are angled.

In the first image below, the handlebars are turned far to the right and, as you can see (and probably know), the clutch reservoir (pictured in this image) is almost level.  Now if you turn the handlebars (again as you all probably know) the "straight forward" location, the reservoir is angled maybe at 30 degrees.



When I rebuilt the clutch reservoir and refilled it (as part of a repair to the reservoir because it leaked), I did it with the handlebars in the "straight forward" position.  In fact, when I rebuilt the clutch reservoir I was concerned about the amount of fluid in the reservoir and the angle the reservoir was usually at.  It seemed like it was not right. How would the fluid stay in there (well it had for years).

I was concerned when I tired to fill it with the handlebars pointed straight ahead, so, I raised the handlebars up a little to allow the reservoir to be at a smaller angel (but not much).

Now, I have ridden this bike, since I purchased it in new in June of 2003, with handlebars titled lower than now and had no issues.  I guess I thought I was just lucky. 

Oh, one more thing, the thing I think that is called a "diaphragm" is pictured below.  It looks a little "deformed" but it still inserted and sealed.



Ok here is a picture of the internal parts of the clutch reservoir as it was when I started the work today.



The arrow in the image was the level of the fluid in the reservoir.  As you can see, it was not high enough to keep the fluid flowing to the slave cylinder. 

But back to the issue with the clutch reservoir and its tilt.  This time I turned the handled bars, as seen in the first image above, and filled the reservoir full.  The arrow in the image below shows the fluid level. 



I then inserted the reservoir diaphragm.  I protected the area under the reservoir because I knew some fluid would be forced out but.....  I did not have an issue.

As I said, I was always sort of worried about the angel of the clutch and front brake reservoirs but never really did anything until this last clutch master cylinder rebuild.  I think that was an error. 

I then used a hand vacuum pump and a reservoir connected to the clutch "bleed" valve and made sure the air was all removed. 

When I handled the clutch lever, it was firm as it should be. 

So, I believe I have resolved hte issue and it was not an equipment failure but a failure on my part to do what I had done in the past.

I am going to lower the handle bars back to the level they had been for years tomorrow. But first I will check and verify that the brake master cylinder is full. 

Then I will take the bike for is first ride in a few months. 

If you have any comments or want to mention things I should be looking at, please feel free to comment.

As I said I hope to have the bike road ready tomorrow.   

[98valk]

the cover diaphragm needs to be pushed in and flush before installing.

[carolinarider09]

OK, thanks for the feedback.  I did "push" the diaphragm cover in so it was flat.  I checked the front brake to verify it was flat and it was.

I lowered the handle bars back to where they were when I first started this work on the bike and that was months back.  So.....

I got all the mirrors pointed so I could see stuff behind me.  Did some basic checks and then took the bike for a short ride (round trip about 2.5 miles).  Just to get the bike warmed up and check for leaks and fluid levels.

Oil level was fine. I had a hard time getting the radiator cap off until I found the screw that was sort of locking it in place.  The radiator was full.   Next check is the final drive.

The main engine oil needs to be changed which I will do in the coming days. 

Then I will take it for a longer ride, just to see how it responds.  And then put it back in "service".  It has sat way too long.