clutch bleeding

[ricoman]

Am reinstalling the clutch slave cylinder tomorrow. A local  Honda mech. has helped me in the past, in fact he removed the unit and cleaned it up so it can be put back with new seals. Unfortunatley he is MIA on the reinstall. So I'll do it myself.
What do I need to be concerned with and how do you bleed the system to refill with new fluid?
Need tips on this. I do not have (or access to) a speed bleeder.
Would appreciate any/all help on this.

[junior]

buy a new pump oil can and a short lenght of rubber hose and bleed it from the slave cycl to the master cycl. and do it slow as not to create air pockets

[ricoman]

will do.
starting at noon eastern!

[donaldcc]

   Check shop manual, easy instructions.  I just replaced clutch and brake fluids this last weekend.  First time for me as I have had 97 tourer for about a month and have put about 1500 miles on it .  Now up to 13,300.  Did it by myself and took a little longer than it will the next time.  Fluid was medium brown so really needed it.  Had more problem with clutch than brakes.  With my handlebars turned far to the right the master cylinder was still not level and I'm sure I got air in the lines as my clutch did not work at all after.  Redid it and it is fine now.  I had a heck of a time though sitting on bike, trying to lean it over to the right so I could fill clutch master cylinder all the way without spilling out.  Trying to keep this heavy thing upright, pour brake fluid in and keep from splashing all over (covered bike in plastic to prevent that) was difficult.  I got "one man bleeder" from autozone that worked fine.
    Front brakes were working good before and still do.  Back brake had a little play in the pedal and that is much better now.  And to allyou more experienced riders out there, for the next time is there any magic to getting clutch master cylinder level without breaking my back by trying to lean it over??

[Ferris Leets]

PIA but, loosen the bars.  Then you can move them so that the master cylinder is level.

[Sodbuster]

Get yourself a harbor freight wheel chock to keep bike level .... makes things a lot easier to keep reservoirs level after you've loosened bars.  I wrapped painters tape around bars and marked their home position so as to put everything back where it was.

Also, invest in a mity-vac .... well worth the money.

[DFragn]

Get yourself a harbor freight wheel chock to keep bike level .... makes things a lot easier to keep reservoirs level after you've loosened bars.  I wrapped painters tape around bars and marked their home position so as to put everything back where it was.

Also, invest in a mity-vac .... well worth the money.

If it needs to be done while on the side stand.
It's easier to loosen the Lever/Reservoir clamps and snug level with the bars turned for bleeding. When finished realign the bar indent to the clamps top seam, torque the fasteners and repeat procedure on the other side. This gives a better leveling range when on the side stand as opposed to rotating the bars when the bike is vertical by center-stand or wheel chock. JMHO

[Baloo]

I need to do this in a near future too. Thanks for the info, they'll prove helpfull when I do it. Talking to some of my friends, they came up with an idea they say they are using very successfully. I've been looking to get a mighty vac, but am having a hard time to find one around here... 

Seems like a pretty easy method of changing the fluid. I did not try it yet, but surely will when I change the fluids. Here's the idea, for what it's worth:

They said they are using a car windshield washer pump. You start by emptying the system completely, because of course, if you don't, you'll end up with a nice oil mess! Then you put the pump inlet line in your can of fresh fluid and hook the pump discharge line to your bleeder. Open the bleeder, turn the pump on and you should be able to fill the system from the bottom. Just monitor the level in the reservoir and stop when it's full. When you're done, to avoid ruining it, clean the pump by making it pump water to rinse off the oil.

If anybody ever tried this, please let me know... Otherwise, I'll post the results of my experiment when I try it.

[DFragn]

I need to do this in a near future too. Thanks for the info, they'll prove helpfull when I do it. Talking to some of my friends, they came up with an idea they say they are using very successfully. I've been looking to get a mighty vac, but am having a hard time to find one around here... 

Seems like a pretty easy method of changing the fluid. I did not try it yet, but surely will when I change the fluids. Here's the idea, for what it's worth:

They said they are using a car windshield washer pump. You start by emptying the system completely, because of course, if you don't, you'll end up with a nice oil mess! Then you put the pump inlet line in your can of fresh fluid and hook the pump discharge line to your bleeder. Open the bleeder, turn the pump on and you should be able to fill the system from the bottom. Just monitor the level in the reservoir and stop when it's full. When you're done, to avoid ruining it, clean the pump by making it pump water to rinse off the oil.

If anybody ever tried this, please let me know... Otherwise, I'll post the results of my experiment when I try it.

Along with the MightyVac, SpeedBleeders are also a great idea.

[Patrick]

If you feel like doing the job by hand with the minimum amount of tools; just stick a 2x4 under the side stand, do what is necessary to almost level the master cylinder, cover the tank etc. with blankets, remove most[ not all] of the fluid[ baster], add new fluid, pump lever a couple times and hold in, back-off the bleeder then tighten, release lever and start process over until fluid runs clear and all air bubbles stop.. Don't allow the master cylinder to go dry during this[ and don't release lever until bleeder is closed] or you'll have to start over and this time you'll have to get the air out of the master cylinder also.. It takes longer to write this than to do it..Have fun..

[ricoman]

Done!
I have a wheel chock (the black Harbor Frieght) so it was upright. Moved the master cylinder up the bar to get it vertical and level. Covered everything with old towels and didn't spill a drop.
Reinstalled the slave cylinder, with new seals (all 3). No one told me what a pain it would be to get the old seals out.
Bled and refilled as directed.
Ya know-sometimes when you do a job for the first time and it turns out OK, there is a good feeling of accomplishment. Makes you less fearful of tackling the next new chore!
I appreciate the words of advice from all.

[F6Dave]

I bought a livestock syringe and a foot of plastic tubing from a Big R farm and ranch store.  It works great and cost me about a buck.

[Ricky-D]

Always best to replace the fluid by introducing the new fluid at the reservoir and draining the old fluid from the caliper.

Not saying you'd do it differently, just needs to be pointed out.

Sucking the present old fluid out of the reservoir is the way to start.

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