Shoptalk Coolant Change bolt torque setting is different than the Honda Manual

[Six Guns]

Maybe this has been brought up before and I just missed it, but the VRCC Shoptalk Coolant change tech writeup calls for tightening up of the drain bolt at 7ft. lb. and the Honda manual calls for 9 ft. lb..I know that bolt is easy to break and that I should go with what the Honda manual says but I just wanted to check with those that have been there and done that. TIA

Check line # 6 in the tech writeup.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/carlcoolant.htm

[John Schmidt]

I've never torqued that drain bolt, just take it up nice and snug....it won't leak. If you have doubts, just use a new crush washer under it similar to what is used on the master cylinder banjo bolts.

[Six Guns]

Well, I went with the Honda manual recommendation of 9ft. lb. instead of Shoptalk's 7ft. lb. and I did not break the bolt. There are no leaks so I guess all is well.     

[Chrisj CMA]

+1 on not torqing those bolts and others that dont do much.  All that thing is doing is plugging a hole.  I probably tighten mine to around 5 or 6....but I dont have a low reading torque wrench so even if I tried to torque it I would be guessing, and even to touch that bolt with a long breaker bar length torque wrench would make me nervous.  I do it like sparkplugs....till it stops and then a 1/16th to an 1/8th of a turn more or as I say a "nundge" with a short 3/8" drive handle.  Same for header nuts, caliper stop pins, right side lower shock bolts, oil drain plugs (engine and final drive) 

[Ricky-D]

Yup, you'd be kidding yourself if you think it would be accurate to use a torque wrench for such a low torque value.

The wrenches have a build-in variation of values that could exceed the low number the bolt requires.

Good common sense and a good mechanical approach should suffice.

Heavy handed tactics are responsible for the majority of torque induced problems.

As a final note: I know bolts break at times when threaded into aluminum but that is usually when removing the bolt which has had some time to lock itself up in the threaded hole.
The larger of the problem is tearing the softer threads out of the aluminum.
When you feel the start of a "give" after tightening the bolt sufficiently, well, that's the first indication you have already ripped the threads and there's no way they will fix themselves.

Anti-seize is probably the least used product, while at the same time one of the most important steps, to removing and replacing bolts that thread into aluminum.

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[Six Guns]

Ricky-D, thanks for the advice. Much appreciated....I have a bad habit of wanting to tighten the bolt or nut just a little bit tighter, and it's gotten me into trouble before. Not fun when you're having to do the repair.