Inzane 17

Decel pop and the unlikely culprit

Started by Mr Steve, Wed 20, Jul 2011, 23:01:14

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DarkMeister

#40
Sun 07, Aug 2011, 13:25:36
Shoulda-coulda... :tickedoff:

Ordered a petcock and right-side switch assembly online. GREAT deal on OEM parts. Got here fast, too.

Then, stopped by local dealer, wanting an air filter quickly, to do when installing the petcock. At the same time, ordered six of these o-rings. One of those things..."Well, I'm here anyway, may as well, it's just a wee bit of rubber". Idiot.
Air filter and the six o-rings? $87.00 including tax.

I think next time I'll curb my need for instant gratifiction and stick to online.   :uglystupid2: :uglystupid2: :uglystupid2: :uglystupid2: :uglystupid2:

Can't wait to do them. Like Chip, I see staining by few of the tubes.

Ricky-D

#41
Sun 07, Aug 2011, 19:08:52
There have been a few instances where the process of changing the O-rings was not quite finished up properly and the new installation showed the same staining pretty fast.

It was the result of not seeing to it that the intake risers were fully tightened down to the head. There was a gap remaining at the rear of the riser, not easy to see nor open enough to see.

The rubber hoses have ability to keep the risers from seating properly some times.

***
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate

Mr Steve

#42
Sun 07, Aug 2011, 22:51:35 Last Edit: Sun 07, Aug 2011, 22:56:11 by Mr Steve
Quote from: chip on Sun 07, Aug 2011, 09:23:26
Had some light staining around  the base of my tubes, knowing this was caused by leaking O-Rings I got a set of the highly recomended Red Eye O-Rings installed. Now a few weeks later a most of them are leaking again. Maybe they have a quality issue they are not aware of.

This is what happened to me and why I started this thread.  The difference between us is I didn't look again at the o-rings because they were both new and redeye's (I have used a lot of his stuff and found it good quality), so I instead ran the gamut of everything else it could possibly be before going back to the o-rings and finding out that it was them.

On my bike I could actually squish the entire ring into the groove, like the groove was too deep or the ring too thin in diameter.  The generic rings I bought are noticeably thicker and I am unable to squish them fully into the groove.  So that is the issue.  Others report no troubles with redeye's o-rings, so either some bikes have deeper grooves (mine is a '97) or he's not sourcing all from the same place and some of us got thinner diameter rings.

Mofla

#43
Mon 15, Aug 2011, 15:17:54
Location of O rings are between chrome riser tube bottom and head ? Does the rubber top boot need a little "help" to come off an what is the cylinder # order ? TYVM !

holderd

#44
Wed 17, Aug 2011, 11:50:46
Just a note on high octane. High octane burns no hotter than low octane. It all burns at the same temp. Octane rating designates resistance to detonation only. Any engine can run on higher octane, but not lower octane than recommended. But, there is no reason to pay the extra cost on high octane if your engine doesn't need it. If your engine pings under acceleration, it may need higher octane. I am an aircraft mechanic and regularly run 100 octane avgas in my lawnmower, because we use discarded sump fuel from the helicopters. High octane does not burn hottter! :)

DarkMeister

#45
Wed 17, Aug 2011, 14:37:56
Well, I got real far along with THIS little project. Took the pods off. Got as far as the first chrome piece - choke-cable cover. Three Philips screws. 2 out of 3, the slots stripped.
And that's how far I got!
Had to take a break and look up some of my own words in the dictionary.

Ricky-D

#46
Wed 17, Aug 2011, 14:47:45
Yeah, it really pays to get a good screwdriver that fits the screw properly.

I myself like the impact driver hardened bits. They seem to fit the best.

And it's important to know that all phillips head looking drivers are not the same and will not work well even though they look like they are correct.

The Snap-on guy is a good source for this kind of information and they sell great tools.

***
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate

rodeo1

#47
Wed 17, Aug 2011, 21:57:46
had the same pop in the rt. bank of my 99. i bought a handfull of the caps that are on the backside of the intakes and replaced them with nice soft ones. stopped the backfire in its tracks.

DarkMeister

#48
Thu 18, Aug 2011, 07:48:38
Quote from: rodeo1 on Wed 17, Aug 2011, 21:57:46
had the same pop in the rt. bank of my 99. i bought a handfull of the caps that are on the backside of the intakes and replaced them with nice soft ones. stopped the backfire in its tracks.

Sounds interesting! What caps? Are you talking the wraps at the top of the tubes?

rodeo1

#49
Thu 18, Aug 2011, 13:56:36
on the backside of your chrome intake tubes you will find little brass nipples on each one. some have vaccum lines on them, some have little rubber caps. replace the caps, check the vaccum lines and see if they are hardened, if so pull them off and cut about 1/4 inch off of them and reinstall. don't leave the little wire clamps off (trust me here) i would bet in 80% of the cases it will stop the backfiring. did on mine.

DarkMeister

#50
Fri 19, Aug 2011, 10:08:39
Just looked at mine - wow. Most of my popping is on the left and that's where the mess is.
The middle one, the hose is cracked and has no clip. One of the caps, at least, looks wet and not in place.
This puts off my o-ring project; may as well do it all at once. Found the part numbers for the vac-line clips but the caps??? No idea. None of the parts schematics show a part number.

Say...you didn't happen to just get these (caps and clips) off the shelf somewhere?
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