Bearings seated?

[indybobm]

If the Final Drive that came with the bike was usable,  then I would to use 2 thrust washers, reuse the wheel and get some miles out if it.
If you replace the final drive  with one that has good splines, I would not reuse your wheel but replace it. Do not forget about getting the distance collar that your Final Drive was missing (picture in Chris's post). Clean everything , get all of the old grease and grit off of all if it. The worn part if your wheel is aluminum and steel dust embedded in the old grease. This would ruin everything in a short time.
Looks like someone threw your back wheel together to sell it. Discouraging I know. Fix it right, do the proper and no more problems.

[Bone]

Are all bearings for this application the same width ?

[Chrisj CMA]

Are all bearings for this application the same width ?

No

[Chrisj CMA]

I think you will not have much success with running that rear wheel regardless of how many thrust washers you employ. The reason I say this is because of the stack up dimension has been lost due to the loss of material from the bearing boss. That loss allows the flange to work in a way that was not designed and resulted in the damage you see to the dampers and the damper retaining plate, and the splines, not to mention the wheel itself.

There have been some who have had their wheel repaired (from the same damage) with good success.e

***

Ricky is mostly right and that's why I would replace that wheel, however if you still want to try to salvage it.  The stack up dimension as RD said is not all lost.  The exposed side of the bearing represents the desired altitude of the hub.  So put the first thrust washer in the damaged shoulder and with a straight edge see if it creates a flat plane across the face of the bearing.  If it takes both thrust washers to fill the gap And create a flat plane, then you will need a third thrust washer

[cogsman]

I think you will not have much success with running that rear wheel regardless of how many thrust washers you employ. The reason I say this is because of the stack up dimension has been lost due to the loss of material from the bearing boss. That loss allows the flange to work in a way that was not designed and resulted in the damage you see to the dampers and the damper retaining plate, and the splines, not to mention the wheel itself.

There have been some who have had their wheel repaired (from the same damage) with good success.e

***

Ricky is mostly right and that's why I would replace that wheel, however if you still want to try to salvage it.  The stack up dimension as RD said is not all lost.  The exposed side of the bearing represents the desired altitude of the hub.  So put the first thrust washer in the damaged shoulder and with a straight edge see if it creates a flat plane across the face of the bearing.  If it takes both thrust washers to fill the gap And create a flat plane, then you will need a third thrust washer

Thanks Chris. I think I will give the thrust washer idea a try as you suggest. I am going to pick up that other wheel anyway, but I will probably just hold it for next season. Reason being it isn't just the wheel, but new bearings and the rotor. So the wheel I can get for $100, but then the additional parts will cost me $300 lol. Thus my hesitation.

Next season, I am thinking new bearings, new rotor, new driven flange, and if necessary, I will replace the propeller shaft and pinion cup on the replacement drive.

And yes, I will get that spacer you're referring to.

Per a previous post, the distance collar between bearings seems to be snug. It was NOT when I first pulled the wheel.

I'm telling you, this is almost funny. Has anybody heard of the Ship of Theseus? I feel like I'm living that right now https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ship_of_Theseus

[cogsman]

The wheel I am buying is a 2J "from a 2001"; the guy doesn't know what model it came off of.

Does it matter? Or do I just ensure I get a rotor from a 2001, any model?

[hubcapsc]

The wheel I am buying is a 2J "from a 2001"; the guy doesn't know what model it came off of.

Does it matter? Or do I just ensure I get a rotor from a 2001, any model?

Get a rotor from any Interstate, or any post-99 STD/Tourer...

-Mike

[Chrisj CMA]

Next season, I am thinking new bearings, new rotor, new driven flange, and if necessary, I will replace the propeller shaft and pinion cup on the replacement drive

If you put your worn flange into a newish drive, then next season you will be looking for another newish drive to go with the new driven flange

[indybobm]

The distance collar I was referring to is not the one that goes between the wheel bearings. It is the one that goes into the splines of the Final Drive. It is part of the link-up between the Final Drive and the right wheel bearing. Compare the picture of your Final Drive with the picture that Chris posted. It is a tube that fits into the spline area of the Final Drive.

Last thing. I know that I am spending your money but I would not fix this half way. You will be doing it all over again next year.

You can get a good usable rear rotor off of eBay for less than $75 and go ahead and use the replacement wheel, replacement Final Drive and a new or used good drive flange.

[cogsman]

Ok point taken. In for a penny in for a pound

[cogsman]

OK, one more thing...where is the spacer that goes in the final drive?  If it was assembled without that spacer, that is why your wheel is now ruined.  Keep that final drive, get a spacer put back in and spend the $$ on a new (used) wheel and of course a drive shaft and pinion cup.  Make sure, however, that you clean EVERY BIT of old grease and dirt out of the splines for that grease no doubt contains lots of ground aluminum from the hub.

Final drive with spacer


Without grease....that spacer can only go in one way.  skinny part first

Ok, I got my replacement final drive; here it is:



Absolutely immaculate! But, no spacer...



so I will order a new one. Do I just drop it in, or do I have to disassemble the final drive to install it?

[John Schmidt]

No, don't have to disassemble it, just drop the small end in and tap it lightly into place. Look at the other end and you'll be able to tell when it's seated. Might first spread a little duck butter on it before inserting it. 

[Chrisj CMA]

You describe the new one as

Absolutely immaculate

did you accidentally attach a photo of the old splines, because those ones you posted of the replacement look as bad, maybe worse than what you started with.  I would not be installing that unless it was a last ditch effort to limp home.

[cogsman]

Ok well thanks. Clearly, I don't know what I'm talking about then.

I spent $750 on this thing with a new $150 flange on the way. I'm out of money. So it is what it is.

[cogsman]

No, don't have to disassemble it, just drop the small end in and tap it lightly into place. Look at the other end and you'll be able to tell when it's seated. Might first spread a little duck butter on it before inserting it. 

Is this the piece I need?



If so I'm not sure how to insert the small end (as opposed to the wider end); the picture seems to indicate the wider end goes in first?

[The emperor has no clothes]

No, don't have to disassemble it, just drop the small end in and tap it lightly into place. Look at the other end and you'll be able to tell when it's seated. Might first spread a little duck butter on it before inserting it. 

Is this the piece I need?



If so I'm not sure how to insert the small end (as opposed to the wider end); the picture seems to indicate the wider end goes in first?

Yes that's it. John got it backwards. The larger tapered end goes into the drive. It will just snug fit, nothing holds it in. 

[cogsman]

Thank you.

[Chrisj CMA]

You will see clearly that the spacer can only go in small end first, don't even think about it, it will be obvious

[Chrisj CMA]

Ok well thanks. Clearly, I don't know what I'm talking about then.

I spent $750 on this thing with a new $150 flange on the way. I'm out of money. So it is what it is.

Dude, I would be on the phone talking to the person that sold it to you.  Unless of course the unfortunate is true, like he sent you that picture you posted and then you bought it anyways.  I hope that didn't happen.  If you had a discussion about the splines and were told they were good, as new, no wear, little wear or slightly worn but serviceable.....well all the above is a huge verbal inaccuracy!

You should be getting your $750 back.  For that kind of cash they should have been PERFECT splines with the original flange and spacer definitely.

[cogsman]

Do I have to replace the gears as sets or can I just buy a brand new driven gear and pinion cup and just swap them out?

[cogsman]

Ok well thanks. Clearly, I don't know what I'm talking about then.

I spent $750 on this thing with a new $150 flange on the way. I'm out of money. So it is what it is.

Dude, I would be on the phone talking to the person that sold it to you.  Unless of course the unfortunate is true, like he sent you that picture you posted and then you bought it anyways.  I hope that didn't happen.  If you had a discussion about the splines and were told they were good, as new, no wear, little wear or slightly worn but serviceable.....well all the above is a huge verbal inaccuracy!

You should be getting your $750 back.  For that kind of cash they should have been PERFECT splines with the original flange and spacer definitely.

This is definitely my fault. I saw the pictures of the splines and figured they were good. They definitely are not when I compare them to your picture. So, caveat emptor. The guy did tell me that the part was working and in good condition. He made no explicit mention of the condition of the splines but instead included a picture.

[Hook#3287]

No, don't have to disassemble it, just drop the small end in and tap it lightly into place. Look at the other end and you'll be able to tell when it's seated. Might first spread a little duck butter on it before inserting it. 

Is this the piece I need?



If so I'm not sure how to insert the small end (as opposed to the wider end); the picture seems to indicate the wider end goes in first?

Yes that's it. John got it backwards. The larger tapered end goes into the drive. It will just snug fit, nothing holds it in. 

That's one of those rare typos from Honda.  It shows the larger end going in first, but it does not go that way.  That kinda sucks cause I rely on their graphics alot. ???

cogsman, I'd be asking for a refund on the final.  Can't hurt.

[The emperor has no clothes]

No, don't have to disassemble it, just drop the small end in and tap it lightly into place. Look at the other end and you'll be able to tell when it's seated. Might first spread a little duck butter on it before inserting it. 

Is this the piece I need?



If so I'm not sure how to insert the small end (as opposed to the wider end); the picture seems to indicate the wider end goes in first?

Yes that's it. John got it backwards. The larger tapered end goes into the drive. It will just snug fit, nothing holds it in. 

oops !  clearly my memory is not up to par. Sorry John 

[cogsman]

The wheel I am buying is a 2J "from a 2001"; the guy doesn't know what model it came off of.

Does it matter? Or do I just ensure I get a rotor from a 2001, any model?

Get a rotor from any Interstate, or any post-99 STD/Tourer...

-Mike

So a rotor from a 99 Interstate would be ok?

[cogsman]

I wanted to give everyone an update: it's done. It works. I rode! Hopefully nothing falls apart, but I did it!

A very gratifying experience. So from Xmas till now, here's what I've done:

Changed the setting on the carb needles to improve fuel efficiency after I added the stock mufflers
Removed and cleaned the air intake manifolds, replaced the o-rings
New tires (had this done at a shop)
Replaced front wheel
Replaced back wheel
Replaced front rotors
Replaced final drive
New propeller shaft
Replaced rear rotor with an IS rotor for the new 2J wheel
Replaced both front calipers
Replaced the left cylinder head gasket
Replaced the left cylinder head
Replaced left timing belt
Changed the fork oil (a good friend in Oshawa did this for me)
Checked all valve clearance
Changed the coolant
Changed the final drive oil
Changed the engine oil
Added an Eklipse 12V accessory unit

Thanks to all of you who helped me with your advice. Couldn't have done it without you!!!

Here she is this morning up at Bond Head, Ontario:

[Tfrank59]

wow that's a lot of work!  at least you know what all's been done and you can depend on her--now just ride her and get some payback for all that!  also hope you'll keep her for a while.  curious, if you don't mind sharing, what did the final drive unit (pumpkin) cost you?  used no doubt.  also a bit curious why only replaced the left timing belt?

[cogsman]

Pumpkin was $450 USD. I replaced the left timing belt because it was visibly damaged. The right one was fine

[Tfrank59]

okay fair enough, though it's such an easy and inexpensive thing to replace both belts if you're in there and you've got the tensioners loose I mean I replaced both of mine neither of which looked damaged but they were 17 years old at the time.