We talk a lot about re-installation steps and necessary maintenance
details for the Valkyrie's final drive.
What follows are my attempt to summarize Honda's instructions. Honda has
specific service manuals for each bike and also a Common Service Manual.
To follow this in the service manual, you have to skip around. You
might be following the Final Drive Installation instruction steps
and come to a step that says "install the rear wheel (page 14-8)"
for example. The Honda manual doesn't just have steps for
removing the final drive and reinstalling it, the manual's steps
include rebuilding it while it is out so you have to connect the
dots for the steps you skip.
- new stopper ring on the pinion cup end of the driveshaft
- new seal
- .5 grams of grease onto "the splines"
The Common Service Manual says the .5 grams of grease
goes into the seal's lips. The diagram in the Valkyrie
service manual also has the grease arrow pointing at
the seal's lips.
I weighed out .5 grams of grease
and found the resulting amount to be
interesting. Surely all grease does not
weigh the same.
- reuse the spring, washer and snap ring
- 2 grams of grease in the pinion cup splines
- 1 gram of grease on the driveshaft splines on the u-joint end
At this point the left side lower shock
bolt is already on and torqued.
- install the final drive, getting the right side lower
shock bolt in and also "the four nuts" on their studs
- torque the four nuts
- put moly paste in the o-ring groove at the damper plate on the wheel
- install a new moly-paste-coated o-ring
- coat the mating surfaces on the wheel and the underside of
the flange with 3 grams of moly paste
- coat the thrust washer with moly paste
- plug the flange into the wheel with the thrust washer in place
- put moly paste in the o-ring groove on the flange
- install a new moly-paste-coated o-ring
Honda's procedure for installing the final drive
comes right after their procedure for rebuilding
the final drive. The elusive 3rd o-ring and it's
groove's moly paste treatment is similar to the other
two and is outlined in the rebuild procedure.
- put 3 grams of moly paste on the flange splines
The accompanying picture seems to indicate
paste on both the splines on the flange and
the splines in the final drive
- put 1 or 2 grams of moly paste on both mating surfaces
of the final drive and of the flange where the flange o-ring
seats onto the final drive
- loosen "the four nuts" to ease axle installation and to
assure proper flange alignment
- put the wheel up in there (mate the wheel to the final drive)
- install the caliper (but not the stopper bolt)
- install the axle
- install and torque the caliper stopper bolt
- install and tighten the axle nut
- tighten "the four nuts"
The Common Service Manual indicates to do the
tightening of "the four nuts" in a criss-cross manner
in several steps until the proper torque is reached.
- tighten the lower right shock bolt
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We all have things we do and ways we do it that are outside
the scope of these steps. I take my rear fender section off, I
probably saw Daniel Meyer do it that way at Johnson City. I take my
shocks off and I use a turnbuckle for a swingarm holder, I got
the idea for a swingarm holder from Jeff in Florida. I sink and
raise my bike on the lift to get at the axle and so that I can
just roll the wheel out after the rear fender section is off.
-Mike
