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Author Topic: Cush Drive Grease Spatter  (Read 644 times)
Alberta Patriot
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Rockyview County, Alberta 2001 Interstate


« on: January 31, 2019, 11:02:26 AM »

Pulled the wheels yesterday to switch out the tires and found this:

What's up...my guess... the drive flange was not tight against the pumpkin.
If that is the case...how do I ensure a tight contact before final button-up.
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Black Pearl's Captain
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Emerald Coast


« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2019, 11:03:48 AM »

did you apply extra grease on the last wheel replacement? Too much and it has to go somewhere.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2019, 11:06:18 AM »

My guess is a broke or worn o-ring or o-rings, or just too much grease to begin with. If the drive flange wasn't up tight you'd be having a lot more problems.
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Alberta Patriot
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Rockyview County, Alberta 2001 Interstate


« Reply #3 on: January 31, 2019, 11:13:18 AM »

My guess is a broke or worn o-ring or o-rings, or just too much grease to begin with. If the drive flange wasn't up tight you'd be having a lot more problems.
O-Rings are good...Re: grease, maybe too much of a good thing.  uglystupid2
Maybe the grease version of hydro-lock? keeping the wheel from making a tight contact to the final drive??
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #4 on: January 31, 2019, 11:33:26 AM »

My over-greasing with a spatula mentality (always with new Orings) usually results in some being thrown out on the wheel and back-end/swing arm for a few rides or a month.  I clean it up, and it goes away.  I don't remember that much on my flange hub at the next tire change.  But if all the gears and teeth are in good shape from good lubrication, and no damage, I'd just clean it up and do it again.  

I run car tires, and can be late doing rear end maintenance, so I always use lots of grease.

I've seen a lot of those dusty, rusty, desert colored flange-splines pictures on here over the years, and I've never had any of that. (looks like water damage, but maybe also under-lubrication too)

I usually put in an ounce or two extra (but no more) 75-90Wt in the pumpkin at changes too, and mostly never had any upchuck through the vent on top either.

As far as good lockup of parts, follow ChrisJ's instructions on reassembly, in the right order, and you should always be good. (Shop talk)

You have a thrust washer in there, right?

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Alberta Patriot
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Rockyview County, Alberta 2001 Interstate


« Reply #5 on: January 31, 2019, 11:52:23 AM »

My over-greasing with a spatula mentality (always with new Orings) usually results in some being thrown out on the wheel and back-end/swing arm for a few rides or a month.  I clean it up, and it goes away.  I don't remember that much on my flange hub at the next tire change.  But if all the gears and teeth are in good shape from good lubrication, and no damage, I'd just clean it up and do it again.  

I run car tires, and can be late doing rear end maintenance, so I always use lots of grease.

I've seen a lot of those dusty, rusty, desert colored flange-splines pictures on here over the years, and I've never had any of that. (looks like water damage, but maybe also under-lubrication too)

I usually put in an ounce or two extra (but no more) 75-90Wt in the pumpkin at changes too, and mostly never had any upchuck through the vent on top either.

As far as good lockup of parts, follow ChrisJ's instructions on reassembly, in the right order, and you should always be good. (Shop talk)

You have a thrust washer in there, right?


Thrush Washer is intact/in place. I refilled with 75W/90 synthetic when I replaced the U-Joint.
I am going to pick up some Moly Paste, instead of using the lithium grease gun stuff.
I do follow ChrisJ's Shop Talk instructions for button-up. 
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MAD6Gun
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New Haven IN


« Reply #6 on: January 31, 2019, 12:22:23 PM »

 Better to be over greased then dry. Just clean lube and reinstall. If the flange wasn't seated all the way you would have not gotten the spacer on the left side back in not to mention the brake caliper bracket. When I lube mine I fill the teeth groves,seals and reassembly....
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #7 on: January 31, 2019, 12:31:33 PM »

I use some moly paste on top of freshly cleaned metal where it is called for.  But then I shmooze on my BelRay Waterproof Grease all over everything, including the paste.

This may not be exactly correct, just what I do. 

It's all just old goop when I pull the wheel again. (and no rust)

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greggh
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OMAHA NE


« Reply #8 on: January 31, 2019, 12:36:11 PM »

I use some moly paste on top of freshly cleaned metal where it is called for.  But then I shmooze on my BelRay Waterproof Grease all over everything, including the paste.

This may not be exactly correct, just what I do. 

It's all just old goop when I pull the wheel again. (and no rust)



Plus 1 With BelRay!!
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Alberta Patriot
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Rockyview County, Alberta 2001 Interstate


« Reply #9 on: January 31, 2019, 01:23:25 PM »

Better to be over greased then dry. Just clean lube and reinstall. If the flange wasn't seated all the way you would have not gotten the spacer on the left side back in not to mention the brake caliper bracket. When I lube mine I fill the teeth groves,seals and reassembly....
Good point  cooldude -It is squeaky tight without leaving extra space!
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longrider
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Vernon, B.C. Canada


« Reply #10 on: January 31, 2019, 04:18:51 PM »

I use some moly paste on top of freshly cleaned metal where it is called for.  But then I shmooze on my BelRay Waterproof Grease all over everything, including the paste.

This may not be exactly correct, just what I do. 

It's all just old goop when I pull the wheel again. (and no rust)



I do exactly as you except I mix 50/50 then apply.   Have found that straight moly will tend to dry out.  Have been doing this since 99 and four valks since my wife also rides (IS).  I’ve been changing bikes around 120 k.     I’ve had no real problems with any of them.  Just routine maintenance
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Chrisj CMA
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Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #11 on: January 31, 2019, 04:33:50 PM »

That looks normal to me. Much better than all dry and rusty
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Sorcerer
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Brooklyn Center MN.


« Reply #12 on: January 31, 2019, 06:59:01 PM »

You have discovered why not to use grease gun grease. It’s not thick enough to stay put when heated and spun.  That’s why moly paste is called out for this application.
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