Front wheel install procedure

[Tfrank59]

Okay, this isn't technically for my Valk but for my VTX, which has the same front forks.  In the Honda service manual it says to tighten the RIGHT two pinch bolts, whereas the Valk procedure is to tighten the left pinch bolts, then to tighten the axle bolt, lower the bike and then do the brake and forks pumping to align things.  My question for you gurus is, why would Honda say the right side pinch bolts first, then lower the bike and align things, then lastly tighten the right side?  the axle and fork are virtually identical on the VTX to the Valkyrie.  In my confusion--couldn't see the logic, since the axle needs to be free on the right side to self-align before tightening the pinch bolts--I went ahead and left both sides loose, did the brakes and forks pumping thing with the bike down, then tightened both sides pinch bolts.  It seems to be fine.  The wheel spins freely, the brake calipers self-aligned like they should, all seems good.  Lots of reading here, but I'm curious your insight cuz makes no sense to me, and it's the Honda service manual that prescribes that.

[Bighead]

Typo?

[Tfrank59]

that was a thought I had, maybe a typo, but can’t be because they have photos pointing to the right Fork pinch bolts (And of course by right side that’s from the perspective of sitting on the bike as usual).

[..]

Okay, this isn't technically for my Valk but for my VTX, which has the same front forks.  In the Honda service manual it says to tighten the RIGHT two pinch bolts, whereas the Valk procedure is to tighten the left pinch bolts, then to tighten the axle bolt, lower the bike and then do the brake and forks pumping to align things.  My question for you gurus is, why would Honda say the right side pinch bolts first, then lower the bike and align things, then lastly tighten the right side?  the axle and fork are virtually identical on the VTX to the Valkyrie.  In my confusion--couldn't see the logic, since the axle needs to be free on the right side to self-align before tightening the pinch bolts--I went ahead and left both sides loose, did the brakes and forks pumping thing with the bike down, then tightened both sides pinch bolts.  It seems to be fine.  The wheel spins freely, the brake calipers self-aligned like they should, all seems good.  Lots of reading here, but I'm curious your insight cuz makes no sense to me, and it's the Honda service manual that prescribes that.

If the Valkyrie way has worked in the past just do it that way?

[Tfrank59]

Well by having both sides pinch bolts loose in effect I did it the Valkyrie way. Because as you know when you slide the axle in from the left side it shoulders off inside the fork and there’s nowhere for it to move especially when you tighten the axle bolt. The only sideways floating (axial movement) that can occur at that point is the right fork leg if you leave those pinch bolts loose.  And as I said, that’s how I did it and everything turned out fine the bike rides perfectly, but I was curious if anybody had an insight into why Honda might’ve change things in 2002 for that service manual I have

[Valker]

Well by having both sides pinch bolts loose in effect I did it the Valkyrie way. Because as you know when you slide the axle in from the left side it shoulders off inside the fork and there’s nowhere for it to move especially when you tighten the axle bolt. The only sideways floating (axial movement) that can occur at that point is the right fork leg if you leave those pinch bolts loose.  And as I said, that’s how I did it and everything turned out fine the bike rides perfectly, but I was curious if anybody had an insight into why Honda might’ve change things in 2002 for that service manual I have

My "Thoughts" on this are the procedure will immobilize lateral movement. The left side alignment is more critical for proper brake alignment (axle must be perfectly flush). If the left is done last, the fork lower could move a bit.

[indybobm]

I have a Honda Service Manual for a 1996 VFR750. The front forks are very similar to the Valkyrie. The procedure for installing the front wheel for the VFR is correct, as is the VTX. The procedure for the Valkyrie is WRONG!. I have been saying that for years but it is always 'you are wrong about that' and so on.
It pains me to say this but even the old technical manual written and put on Shoptalk is wrong. It is based on the incorrect Honda Valkyrie Service manual. The Crux of the matter is that the le3ft fork has to move to center itself over the rotor. The right fork is captured by tightening the axle bolt and can go nowhere.

[Chrisj CMA]

I have a Honda Service Manual for a 1996 VFR750. The front forks are very similar to the Valkyrie. The procedure for installing the front wheel for the VFR is correct, as is the VTX. The procedure for the Valkyrie is WRONG!. I have been saying that for years but it is always 'you are wrong about that' and so on.
It pains me to say this but even the old technical manual written and put on Shoptalk is wrong. It is based on the incorrect Honda Valkyrie Service manual. The Crux of the matter is that the le3ft fork has to move to center itself over the rotor. The right fork is captured by tightening the axle bolt and can go nowhere.

Yes, this is exactly right. It’s why I say it’s more important to know the why and not just the what. When I followed the book the first time I could see there was no purpose in bouncing it with the brake side pinch bolts loose. But as it says above, leaving the clutch side loose allows the floating fork to move to where it needs to be. BTW. I always keep the brake on after bouncing the front until those pinch bolts are tightened so the fork can’t creep.

[98valk]

my manual 1997-2001 date issue Dec '98 states the following;
 Valk procedure is to tighten the left pinch bolts (speedo gear box side), then to tighten the axle bolt, then install calipers, lower the bike and then pump forks up and down to seat the axle. and then tighten the right pinch bolts.

[Chrisj CMA]

my manual 1997-2001 date issue Dec '98 states the following;
 Valk procedure is to tighten the left pinch bolts (speedo gear box side), then to tighten the axle bolt, then install calipers, lower the bike and then pump forks up and down to seat the axle. and then tighten the right pinch bolts.

So does mine and it makes no sense. There’s no need to bounce it if nothing can move. But to each his own.

[Tfrank59]

I was under the impression that once the axle slides into the left side (clutch side), and especially after you tighten the axle bolt, there’s no way the axle can float sideways. The only axial movement that can occur is in the right fork leg which is a straight bore and has no shoulder, assuming of course its pinch bolts are loose. I hope I did OK by having both sides pinch bolts loose when I bounced it; for what it’s worth it looks to be centered and the brakes are not binding or anything. Occasionally I’ll touch both rotors after my ride and see if they’re both warming about the same amount.

[Chrisj CMA]

I was under the impression that once the axle slides into the left side (clutch side), and especially after you tighten the axle bolt, there’s no way the axle can float sideways. The only axial movement that can occur is in the right fork leg which is a straight bore and has no shoulder, assuming of course its pinch bolts are loose. I hope I did OK by having both sides pinch bolts loose when I bounced it; for what it’s worth it looks to be centered and the brakes are not binding or anything. Occasionally I’ll touch both rotors after my ride and see if they’re both warming about the same amount.

Nope. The left (clutch) side of the axle is just a smooth shaft and the fork lower floats. If the caliper was removed and the left pinch bolts were loose you could move that fork quite a bit left and right. The right side conversely is pulled all the to the right and locked in place laterally once the axle bolt is torqued.

[Ken aka Oil Burner]

Not a Valkyrie, but the idea is the same. Dave Moss Tuning is well regarded as one of the best MC suspension gurus around. Start at 3:54 if you just want to see the install part. This is just about universal for the front wheel on a motorcycle with standard or inverted forks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYHV78tWs1c

[Bret SD]

Not a Valkyrie, but the idea is the same. Dave Moss Tuning is well regarded as one of the best MC suspension gurus around. Start at 3:54 if you just want to see the install part. This is just about universal for the front wheel on a motorcycle with standard or inverted forks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYHV78tWs1c

Very good video, thanks for posting!

[98valk]

my manual 1997-2001 date issue Dec '98 states the following;
 Valk procedure is to tighten the left pinch bolts (speedo gear box side), then to tighten the axle bolt, then install calipers, lower the bike and then pump forks up and down to seat the axle. and then tighten the right pinch bolts.

So does mine and it makes no sense. There’s no need to bounce it if nothing can move. But to each his own.

 

I have never bounced it, I just make sure brakes are engaging correctly.
Also I  loosen the fender bolts attached to the lower forks. for mine they twist them slightly without the axle installed.
but u agree that the tightening sequence in the manual is correct?

[baldo]

I had a problem once with the front wheel after installation, a loud grinding sound. I called Bob Smith in a panic, he informed me that the manual is incorrect, as has been mentioned by a few guys here.
If I remember correctly, both ends of the axle should be flush or slightly recessed at the fork.

[RonW]

The manual specifies leaving the Right pinch bolts loose. But with the Axle Nut tightened per manual, the right fork is clamped in place and cannot move laterally on the axle even with its pinch bolts loose (as others have stated). I suspect that bouncing the front end is to align the forks in the same plane. The same thing done by holding a pane of glass against the forks to check they're in the same plane. Nothing scientific though. Whereas, with the Left pinch bolts loose (graphic below), the left fork can move laterally.








Hypothetically, bouncing the front end of the bike takes out any misalignment between the forks. Instead of this method.

[indybobm]

I have a Honda Service Manual for a 1996 VFR750. The front forks are very similar to the Valkyrie. The procedure for installing the front wheel for the VFR is correct, as is the VTX. The procedure for the Valkyrie is WRONG!. I have been saying that for years but it is always 'you are wrong about that' and so on.
It pains me to say this but even the old technical manual written and put on Shoptalk is wrong. It is based on the incorrect Honda Valkyrie Service manual. The Crux of the matter is that the left fork has to move to center itself over the rotor. The right fork is captured by tightening the axle bolt and can go nowhere.

Funny how this keeps coming up. short answer is that the Valkyrie service manual is wrong for the front wheel install and correct for the VFR750 and VTX with similiar forks. Once the right side (brake side) pinch bolts are tightened, no amount of bouncing will do anything to it. It is the left side that need to be aligned. The left pinch bolts should be loosened before bouncing the front end.

[98valk]

I have a Honda Service Manual for a 1996 VFR750. The front forks are very similar to the Valkyrie. The procedure for installing the front wheel for the VFR is correct, as is the VTX. The procedure for the Valkyrie is WRONG!. I have been saying that for years but it is always 'you are wrong about that' and so on.
It pains me to say this but even the old technical manual written and put on Shoptalk is wrong. It is based on the incorrect Honda Valkyrie Service manual. The Crux of the matter is that the left fork has to move to center itself over the rotor. The right fork is captured by tightening the axle bolt and can go nowhere.

Funny how this keeps coming up. short answer is that the Valkyrie service manual is wrong for the front wheel install and correct for the VFR750 and VTX with similiar forks. Once the right side (brake side) pinch bolts are tightened, no amount of bouncing will do anything to it. It is the left side that need to be aligned. The left pinch bolts should be loosened before bouncing the front end.

yep, I've read your posts and other postings about install, so this is what I did.

Torqued down the axle without pinch bolts and fender bolts tighten. Then tighten caliper and right side pinch bolts. This put the guide line on the axle just touching the speedo housing, this is a std/tourer and not at the fork as the VTX sites show.
The wheel spins freely for many turns. will do the brake fork bounce and tighten the pinch and fender bolts after finishing up the brakes.

[indybobm]

As long as it works. Not all Valkyrie axles have that line. Make sure that if you hold a straight edge to the outside of the fork, the hex end of the axle just kisses the straight edge. You can also visibly ensure that the caliper is centered over the left brake disc.

[Ramie]

yep, I've read your posts and other postings about install, so this is what I did.

Torqued down the axle without pinch bolts and fender bolts tighten. Then tighten caliper and right side pinch bolts. This put the guide line on the axle just touching the speedo housing, this is a std/tourer and not at the fork as the VTX sites show.
The wheel spins freely for many turns. will do the brake fork bounce and tighten the pinch and fender bolts after finishing up the brakes.

It's been a couple of years since I had mine off and my memory isn't as good as it used to be but wouldn't the axel just spin when you try to torque the nut if you didn't tighten any pinch bolts?

[Cracker Jack]

yep, I've read your posts and other postings about install, so this is what I did.

Torqued down the axle without pinch bolts and fender bolts tighten. Then tighten caliper and right side pinch bolts. This put the guide line on the axle just touching the speedo housing, this is a std/tourer and not at the fork as the VTX sites show.
The wheel spins freely for many turns. will do the brake fork bounce and tighten the pinch and fender bolts after finishing up the brakes.


It's been a couple of years since I had mine off and my memory isn't as good as it used to be but wouldn't the axel just spin when you try to torque the nut if you didn't tighten any pinch bolts?

I tighten one or two of the left side pinch bolts to hold the axel while torquing the nut, then reloosen the left pinch bolt(s). 

[Chrisj CMA]

You can tighten the axle bolt without any pinch bolts tight. Just use a large hex head. On the right desire. I believe the Honda tool for the spark plugs fits that. I’m not sure thigh because I have a socket bit that fits

[RonW]

That's part & parcel to the 1 or 2 wrench debate on installing the front axle. If you tighten the left pinch bolts than you only need a single wrench.

I use a hex axle adapter tool. It's 2-wrench method because I personally don't feel the [edit] pinch bolts 2 pinch bolts are meant to hold the axle at the high torque required to tighten the axle.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Since the pinch bolts ride low to the road and face the front direction, imho the chrome caps should be put back to preserve the allen sockets and keep them from getting rounded off, etc.
But they get brittle and fall apart then there's no chrome caps to put back on.



I haven't tried these yet and don't know if they last longer. The part that sticks into the hex socket (A) has o-rings on a solid shaft vrs. the older chrome cap snap in(B).

[98valk]

I'm having no problems with the OEM caps, since '00 still same ones.

[..]

Something I saw and copied in 2016.


Front Wheel Installation
1.      Lightly grease axle to prevent corrosion and make for easier removal
2.      Roll wheel under the front fender
3.      Insert right side spacer
4.      Grease inside of speedo gear box and insert on the left side being certain that the rotation stop on the speedo gear box is just behind (toward the radiator or rear) the stop on the left fork leg
5.      Lift the wheel with your feet and align

6.      Insert the axle from the left (of the bike) and push it in until it is flush with the outside of the fork leg (top to bottom)
7.      Insert and torque the left (only!!!, not the right) axle pinch bolts (6mm hex) to 16 ft.lb. (22Nm)
8.      Insert and torque the axle bolt on the right side (22mm) to 67 ft.lb. (90Nm)
9.      Do NOT tighten the right axle pinch bolts yet!!! The correct sequence is critical to maintain correct fork alignment!!!  

10.  Gently spread the pads in the calipers with a tire iron or large screwdriver
11.  Install both calipers (12mm) and torque the mounting bolts to 22 ft.lb. (30Nm)
12.  Align the slots in the speedo cable and insert it into the speedo gear box – if the cable won’t go in all the way, gently push on the cable while turning the wheel – insert and gently tighten the phillips screw (careful – it can break easily)
13.  Insert the brake lines into the holders on the fender
14.  Insert the speedo cable into the wire holder on the left caliper
15.  Check the front wheel for relatively free rotation (some brake pad drag)
16.  Pump the front brakes until pressure returns!!!!!!!!!!!
17.  Lower and remove the Cycle Lift
18.  Straddle the bike, apply the front brakes and pump the front forks up and down several times to seat the axle (or you can compress the forks with straps and then tighten the right axle pinch bolts)
19.  Only now do you tighten the right axle pinch bolts to 16 ft.lb. (22Nm)
20.  Insert the chrome caps into the 4 axle pinch bolt heads
21.  Pump the front brakes to be sure they are working!!!