Memphis Shades Windshield - cutting a bigger headlight hole...

[Walküre]

Got me a HECK of a deal, on a Memphis Fats windshield replacement, to replace mine - right height, right color, right width, wrong headlight hole. I knew it when I bought it, but the deal was so good, I couldn't pass it up. But, it has a 7" hole, instead of 9".

I know I've seen people with cut-down windshields, as well as "custom" cut screens, so I know it can be done. I'm thinking take the old one, put it on top (after taping, covering, etc, to stop any chances of scratches) of the new one, bolting through the holes, to keep it absolutely stationary, then taking a Dremel with a good, clean burr bit, and routing the new one, using the old as a template. Not much chance of the bit "dancing" that way, and chewing up the new one - the only place it COULD go is into the selvage. Then, finish it off with sanding, etc, for a smooth edge. I'm not worried at all by losing an 1/8" or so, making the hole a bit smaller, as there's a good 1/2" clearance on the old one - a little closer clearance wouldn't hurt ANYthing!

Any other thoughts/suggestions/hints, from those who have been there, before?

Thanks,

R

[Challenger]

I used a variable speed jig saw (on slow)to cut my windshield down and then sanded the edges by hand, lots of duct tape so the saw foot did not mare the windshield. My dremel just melted the plastic and plugged the bit, good luck with your project.

[Walküre]

I used a variable speed jig saw (on slow)to cut my windshield down

course or fine blade?

thanks,

R

[ILcruiser]

Bosch makes a jigsaw blade, T101A, made especially for cutting acrylic.  The difference between this blade and normal woodcutting blades is that the teeth aren't staggered, but rather taper cut.  That's important, because staggered teeth can snag the acrylic and crack it.  The tapered teeth also produce a cleaner cut.  After the cut, clean it up with 320 or 400 sandpaper, and you're good to go.  Be sure to keep the jigsaw on a slow speed, to reduce heat.  Put masking tape on the shoe of the jigsaw to prevent scratches.  Since you have an inch all around the 7" opening to play with, do a practice cut on the portion to be cut off, to make sure that you've got the speed right.

If you want the ultimate cut on acrylic, use a variable speed router on slow speed, with a carbide-tipped flush cut bit, using the 9" shield as your template.  You won't even have to clean up the cut after it's done, except maybe to soften the edges of the cut.

Good luck with the project!

[Walküre]

If you want the ultimate cut on acrylic, use a variable speed router on slow speed, with a carbide-tipped flush cut bit, using the 9" shield as your template.  You won't even have to clean up the cut after it's done, except maybe to soften the edges of the cut.

Good luck with the project!

Like this??

http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5047-flush-trim-router-bits-2-flute-extra-long-2-flute.aspx

If so, who might carry something like this, other that "specialty" stores, or mail order?

R

[ILcruiser]

Like this??

http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5047-flush-trim-router-bits-2-flute-extra-long-2-flute.aspx

If so, who might carry something like this, other that "specialty" stores, or mail order?

R
[/quote]

I think it'd be easier to use a flush trim bit with a top bearing, like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Power-Tool-Accessories-Router-Bits/h_d1/N-5yc1vZb8ms/R-100660681/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

You can find them cheaper online, from Rockler, Grizzly and other places, but then you'd have shipping.  Just about any home improvement store that carries router bits will have a 1/2" bit, which will work fine.