help please ujoint

[matt]

hello took ujoint out about one month ago to check and lube shafts now put ujoint in got boot on I cannot get driveshaft in. I have long side of ujoint pointing a t motor is that correct? I have never had any issue getting a shaft back in and am hoping i do not have to take joint out again as boot does not like to move when cold Thank You

[Ricky-D]

Yep, that is correct.

Long end of the universal joint goes on the output shaft of the motor.

You may need to jiggle the end of the drive shaft and maybe also turn the shaft some to get it on.

Turn the shaft using the wheel drive flange inserted into the differential.

***

[R J]

Might want to raise the swingarm to help get a straighter shot at the shaft and teeth out of motor.

Anyway that works for me.

[hubcapsc]

I did all the things you've been advised to do last weekend when I was putting my drive shaft back in,
and used a flashlight to look up the swingarm to see how the ujoint was sitting, and nothing worked.
And then, all of a sudden, it did. Most of the time I have no trouble. It is probably the case that you
are doing all the right things, and when it goes in, and seems in, it is probably perfect - there's not
much chance of it seeming to be seated and being wrong... Have patience...

I got tired moving the swingarm and holding the pumpkin and spinning the driveshaft all at the same
time and sat down and rested for a minute, then went back at it... after a couple of tries, poomp, it went it.

Make sure you got that dang boot back on, all the way around 

-Mike

[Daniel Meyer]

1) Stuff pumpkin/shaft in swingarm.
2) Elevate swingarm past horizontal. Higher the better. This is the key. Get someone to hold it (I use a strap over the frame)
3) Kind of line up pumpkin on the 4 studs.
4) Wiggle the crap out of it (hard, don't be shy) till it slides home. (usually a couple seconds).

If it goes home it's in the joint. It cannot miss.

[hubcapsc]

Wiggle the crap out of it (hard, don't be shy) till it slides home. (usually a couple seconds).

I was probably being too careful not to knock my bike off the stand... if I had jiggled the crap out of it, instead
of just jiggling it, it probably would have gone right in 

-Mike

[Daniel Meyer]

Wiggle the crap out of it (hard, don't be shy) till it slides home. (usually a couple seconds).

I was probably being too careful not to knock my bike off the stand... if I had jiggled the crap out of it, instead
of just jiggling it, it probably would have gone right in  

-Mike

At one Inzane, doing this as a demo, I said, "Wiggle it like it's a Harley at idle."

[matt]

well I got it in now I just have to wait for it to warm up enough to get boot on. Thank you to everyone that posted. I am trying to get her ready for inzane looks like over 1000 mile ride. Me and a friend are hoping to make it in around 20hrs. I have rebuilt pumkin,new flange,garys dampers. I need to get to middle and front of bike

[thewoodman]

Since you all are talking about u-joints and my scooter is nearing the 50k mark, AND ordering new u-joints are a back-ordered item, here's my question.

As long as the yokes are in good shape, is the u-joint bearing replaceable? If so, does anyone know what the replacement bearing part number might be?

[Jess from VA]

I just have to wait for it to warm up enough to get boot on.

My U-joint went right in... but it was hours getting the firkin boot on all the way around (on the bottom, in back).  Spraying it with some slippery stuff helps (on the inside), but also makes it hard to grab.  

[Ricky-D]

Since you all are talking about u-joints and my scooter is nearing the 50k mark, AND ordering new u-joints are a back-ordered item, here's my question.

As long as the yokes are in good shape, is the u-joint bearing replaceable? If so, does anyone know what the replacement bearing part number might be?

There's been some reports here on the forum about doing just that!

It was done in a professional shop that does that kind of work.

It is not built in a way that it can be rebuilt without modification.

I recall that the bearing caps had to be spot welded in!

One instance seems like the caps were being held in by spot punches around the circumference of the cap.

To me, that seems iffy!  Of course right at the present I'm not in need of a u-joint.

***

[Bone]

Have you guys wrestling the boot tried using a hair dryer on the boot? I keep one in the tool cabinet and have used it for many similar jobs. They get pretty hot up close to the tip.

[fudgie]

Have you guys wrestling the boot tried using a hair dryer on the boot? I keep one in the tool cabinet and have used it for many similar jobs. They get pretty hot up close to the tip.

I do put mine in front of the tunnel heater before putting it on. Makes it more plyable.

[matt]

i will heat it up with a heat gun on low but my garage is outside and it is frekin conl need gloves cannot grab rubber  Matt, New Hampshire

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

I've found thru  trial and error the best way for me is to wait until bike is on side stand and jack is out of the way. It gives me more room to work and swingarm  angle is in it's natural state.