CARB SYNCHRONISATION - final remarks

[FLATSIX]

Hello,

I finally come myself to the conclusion that it is not possible to achieve a 100% synchronisation with the "own made synchronisation too" because it is too sensitif  and each time you make it almost 100% and blieb the throttle, there must be made minuscule mechanical changements to the screws , but enough to undo the almost perfect readings on the sync.tool. 

After doing it again and again I had to stop it - better dan very good you won't have it with this tool. 

QUESTIONS ALTHOUGH :

1) Idling for 1 and even 2 hours can it dammage or harm the motor or other parts?

2) Result of synchronising : - motor starts good when using choke - no choke = wo't sart or turn very low till getting warm (before synchronisation motor started good without choke)

                                      -when warm motor then idling is very smooth - pulls harder and has more power on low rpm.

                                      -STRANGE BUT : the exhaust gasses smell very badly - this I did not have before the sychronisation : what does that mean - starting only with choke and when running a bad smell of burned gasses??

[bigvalkriefan]

Flatsix, do you have adjustable needles? If so what slot are the clips in?

[FLATSIX]

I have a '97 red/white Valk - 1st owner.  It is the European version - so without the smoginstallation or pair valves etc. on it - just 5 ruber nipples at the intakes and 1 vacuumline to the petcock.

I have installed a few years ago a K&N airfilter with pre-filter in - the tank is with spacers between (Vstacks) .

The carbs are full stock except that I installed those I/S springs - the exhaust is 100% stock except that I cut the 6 piggies and left 1" on place.


What I changed when doing the synchro was :  tighten the bolts of exhaust (and the cylinder #6 each time comes lose again, don't ow why but put each time 10 Nm on it and after ride I can do it again...), further I changed all 6 rubber O-rings at the bottom of the chrome intakes.

Yesterday I went for a short testride - what is different now :

-starts very beautifull with choke on
-turns very smooth when motor is hot - when motor is not at temperature the stationary rpm is 600 rpm and not idling 100%, when hot then it's O.K.

-when I drive now everything is become much more silent - when turning my right wrist a little she reacts much better
-I have definitely more power at lower rpm's, machine picks up better at these lower rpm's (1500-200 rpm in 4 or 5th gear)
-when turning the throttle at max for max. acceleration the sound is become a very high screaming (more like from a racing bike) - but the needle climbs better to the red zone and acceleration is better - pulls more constantly.

What is worse : the exhaust gasses smell bad.

Could I have fixed something (airleake) that I had for years - and are the new symptoms normal (high screaming sound) - not much exhaust noise when driving normally.

I think that my fuelconsumption must be less because don't have to turn that much the throttle when driving normally.

WHAT IS YOUR OPINION ON THIS -SHOULD I CHANGE SOMETHING OR LEAVE IT AS IS??

[KCvalk]

well you have accomplished the thing you wanted to do which is get the carbs sync'ed as best as possible maybe not 100% but you say you have more pull and better rpm's and faster response.  congrats job accomplished.

now the bi-products are you must have the choke pullled to start cold...not a problem that's why you have a choke.... on almost all bikes/cars with carb system the choke is needed for a reason..... 3 min warm up is normal

the smell of the gas is that it could be burning off alot of crap that has settled in the carbs, the cylinders etc  run a can of seafoam thru, take it out and rev it to the 60-70's on the interstate for 10-20 miles  and give it a tank of top octane and see if the smell is gone in a few days...I'm betting its just burnoff

i hope i have as good of results when i get mine done

[FLATSIX]

What worries me is that the sound by ful acceleration has changed totally : now it is a very high screaming sound - the rpm needle gos without hesitation to 6500 rpm with a dry very high sound like when a race-machine accelerates- before the changements it was a lower sound - and the pulling was not so spectacular.

I hope the combustion is not too high in temperature (too lean) - I think you can see this when driving a longer trip and then looking at the spark plug : when I see white color then it runs too lean - when it is coffee with milk (lichtbrown) then it's O.K. - AM I RIGHT !!

I cannot believe that the changements on my Lady are only due to a perfect synchronisation of the carbs, I did put new O-rings on the intakes, I did tighten the exhaust nuts (where there were very loose) and I did put new rubberstops at the end of the intakes. It must be it alltogether, get rid of airleaks + better syncro of carbs.

IT IS FOR YEARS THAT I FOLLOW THIS BOARD , I WANTED TO BUY CARBTUNE AND WANTED TO BUY TWINMAX OR 6 CONVENTIONAL VACUUMMETERS - BUT NOW I AM REALLY HAPPY WITH THE SYNC.TOOL SELFMADE AS IT CANNOT BE BEATEN BY THESE SYSTEMS, it is extremely secure - too secure because you want to have it 100% and you cannot because the mechanical components around the throttlemanagement are inferior to the accurasy of the home-made-thing.

Thanks again WALT KINGBEE for your contribution + film of the THING : that made me make the MEAN THING and am glad I did.!

[bigvalkriefan]

You need to do a plug check. You need to run the bike at highway speed for a few miles and then shut it down. Don't let it decel or idle then pull over and check a couple of plugs for color.
I had the same gas smell but I have adjustable needles and they were on the 5th slot because of the supertrapp exhaust. I put stock exhaust on and put them on the 2nd slot and problem solved.

[FLATSIX]

When you had that smell - was it then running too lean or too rich?

Did you otice a difference in sound when you did adjust correctly?

Now the machine has a high and aggressif sound when full-accelerating, before there was more bass.

[Ricky-D]

I want to only address the problem of unstable adjustment of the throttle linkage.  (changing synchronization with throttle blipping).

Spraying the linkage with a silicone spray or some lubricant in an ample amount will help stop that problem. Such small adjustments are muted as a result of dirty and cruddy linkage and springs and all the rest of the moving parts that make up the "linkage".

[FLATSIX]

Dear Ricky-D, I followed up your previous message about the spraying of linckage - so before synchronising I sprayed it with silicone-oil. My linckages have no dust at all - they are like new....

I think it is more a design-problem : when turning the throttle it all turns and they come back to place, but with unbelievable difference, and the vac.machine detects it and gives a light different readment. It is like you turn the screw 0,1mm in, you bliep the tthrottle and the screw sets itself back.

[bigvalkriefan]

When you had that smell - was it then running too lean or too rich?

Did you otice a difference in sound when you did adjust correctly?

Now the machine has a high and aggressif sound when full-accelerating, before there was more bass.

I smelled gas mostly when at idle or low rpm's. Someone who was riding behind me when we accelerated from 30 mph up to 75 mph told me the smell was bad in the beginning.. Overall the plug color was a tad to rich.
I did not notice a change in sound.
My guess is it's either the needles or slow speed jets, but I'm no expert.

[FLATSIX]

There must be a way to see if the machine runs too rich , good or to lean. I thought that I read that you can measure this by using a CO-meter.

When exhaust gases are a certain % then it's O.K., otherwhise you have to adjust the pilots.

Maybe someone can advise me exactly how things are ?
The fumes of the exhaust definitely smell very bad when idling ! This must point at something wrong - for the rest she pulls good and rides nice.

[FLATSIX]

Here's my setup - notice tat I used 6 suppl. fuelhoses to connect the machine on - this way it is very easy to do a syncro as you don't need to scratch your valance-covers.

I also used 6 colors on the meter and at the end of the tubing - when I see that red is too high, I simply turn the screw at the red marked tubing out etc. very easy and more important: it's quick ...




See the fuelhoses + colormarking !



Here you see clearly the red levels as they are close to each other - I managed to get them all within 1/2"- even when reving the motor up they stayed that way less or more. A truly accurate measuring machine it is !




Now it runs almost perfect - only have that bad smell of exhaustgas at idle !

[Kingbee]

Good Job.  The mean machine rules!

[humshark]

Hey FLATSIX!  Your setup is impressive!  It actually reminds me of the "ring the bell" carnival game.

That looks good enough to take on the road and set up your own "sync" shop at various valk gatherings!

Let me know if you bring it to TN sometime.  I won't have to make my own then!