Need a trailer wheel/bearing/hub expert or...

[Tx Bohemian]

...hear from some one who had this experience.

I had a 4X8 utility trailer built by a welder about 25-30 years ago.  Long before utility trailers were so abundant as they are now. (TSC, Lowes, HD, etc...)

I'm planning to trailer my Valk 120 or so miles in a few weeks.

So, along with needing tires I figured I'd better check/repack the bearings since I haven't done anything with them for quite a few years (probably 15yrs).
And sure enough, 2 of the 4 bearings are bad.

Unfortunately one hub is bad also, and that's where the dilemma is!
It's not the standard 3500# hub and I cannot locate one like it.
I've called all the local, and not so local, trailer/bearing places and have been all over the internet but all I'm coming up with is the standard sizes for 3500# hubs, which are way different bearing sizes than what I have.

I got in & out bearing #s but cannot see any markings on the hub itself.
I've given the bearing #s to a couple of "trailer experts" and they tell me either they have no clue or this is such an old number they don't have the part.

Unless I can find a hub I'm left with replacing the complete axle.  The prices I'm coming up with is from $300-$350 shipped to my door.
At least if I go this route everything should be quite common if I run into this again down the road.
But it would still be better if I could locate just a hub for $40-$50.

Has anyone had experience finding obsolete trailer hubs?

[Jess Tolbirt]

post the bearing numbers and maybe we can help,,

[Black Pearl's Captain]

Does the hub have races? It should have unless it's a ball bearing. I don't think you need a hub you need to get the races out if they are bad and buy new bearings which come with races.


https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wheelbearingpack.aspx

[old2soon]

Not much help for you there but I have a place about 25 miles from me that their entire business is trailers. I'm thinking you might should have something similar where you're at. Would that I could be more helpful for you. RIDE SAFE.

[Jess Tolbirt]

most all axles are 1 inch or 1 1/2 inch and the hubs back in the old days were ford hubs..

[Patrick]

What is wrong with hub ? Did the cup spin ? If so, an old Ford factory fix was to prick punch the hub a number of times and install the new cup. The cup will center itself, it works. However there is a limit to the amount of damage where this will work.

Regardless, I'm surprised you can't find a hub that will work.  Even our local TSC has about every trailer/axle part.  Even if the complete axle is to be replaced, TSC has them very inexpensive.

It would help to know the axle size and bearing numbers.

[Tx Bohemian]

post the bearing numbers and maybe we can help,,

most all axles are 1 inch or 1 1/2 inch and the hubs back in the old days were ford hubs..

Outer brg# = SKF LM12749
Inner brg# = Tyson JL69349

OD of outer surface on axle is .86"
OD of inner surface on axle is 1.49"
OD of seal surface is 1.93"
ID of seal surface in hub is 2.495"

In my research I'm thinking these are Ford hubs of some kind. However I have mid 80s Chevy truck rally wheels on it.
It's a 5 on 5 bolt pattern. (5 lugs/5" diameter)

Does the hub have races? It should have unless it's a ball bearing. I don't think you need a hub you need to get the races out if they are bad and buy new bearings which come with races.

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wheelbearingpack.aspx

Yes, there are outer races.  I didn't mean to insinuate these are quite that old.
One outer race spins in the hub.

etrailer.com is one place I asked about the bearing size and threw them for a loop.

What is wrong with hub ? Did the cup spin ? If so, an old Ford factory fix was to prick punch the hub a number of times and install the new cup. The cup will center itself, it works. However there is a limit to the amount of damage where this will work.
Regardless, I'm surprised you can't find a hub that will work.  Even our local TSC has about every trailer/axle part.  Even if the complete axle is to be replaced, TSC has them very inexpensive.
It would help to know the axle size and bearing numbers.

Yeah, the cup spins in the hub.  There is no side to side play so the "pricking" is an option to tighten and will do for the upcoming trip but the hub will continue to wear and need replacing eventually.

One problem I'm having with all the "trailer" places, including TSC, is a 4X8 trailer usually has a 2000lbs axle and the 3500lbs axles are substantially wider.

I'd like to keep a 3500lbs axle on this trailer and the $300-$350 prices are for "custom" axles, either made to the required length or cut out some from the middle to achieve the proper length and then sleeved/welded by the axle company.

Again, if I could come up with a good hub I'd be thrilled.

Any help is surely appreciated guys!

Not much help for you there but I have a place about 25 miles from me that their entire business is trailers. I'm thinking you might should have something similar where you're at. Would that I could be more helpful for you. RIDE SAFE.

If I could get the name and/or phone# of that company from you I'd appreciate it.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I'm no help on the hubs, except to say that if you have to go to a new axle I would recommend a torsion axle. My question is how do you get your bike on a 4x8 trailer ? My FIL has one and I can't fit it.

[old2soon]

Tx-sent you a P M. RIDE SAFE.

[Patrick]

A hub shouldn't wear. A cup spins in a hub due to either the wrong cup being installed or more often, the bearing goes bad usually from lack of maintenance and seizes causing the cup to spin.

If the hub isn't too bad as you say, if mine I'd probably just 'punch' it and run it.
Take your trusty punch and prick 2 rows around the diameter with 8 'pricks' to a row. The  rows about 1/4 to 1/3 the way from edge.

Ford [ I grew up in a Ford garage] had such a problem with brand new cars when I was a youngster and this was their fix. Apparently they got tired of having customer cars down and having to supply new hubs. We complained like crazy and a factory rep showed up showing and telling us to do this. It works, never had a problem with one. The punch marks should be equally spaced around the diameter and of about the same size/depth. The second row the same but spaced to the center of the first row. This does allow the cup to center itself. The punch marks really don't have to be very deep/big.

[Tx Bohemian]

I'm no help on the hubs, except to say that if you have to go to a new axle I would recommend a torsion axle. My question is how do you get your bike on a 4x8 trailer ? My FIL has one and I can't fit it.

Yeah, it's a close fit.  I take the Tailgate off cause the fender protrudes past it but the rear wheel sits completely on the bed.
Two sets of straps to be on the safe side and check it frequently, at every stop!

Funny thing, the guy who built this thing for me evidently had a rubber tape measure because it's really 3' 11-7/8" X 7' 11-1/2".
A full sheet of plywood/sheetrock won't fit in it.
To replace the plywood floor I got to trim off a tad bit, a PITA! Lucky that happens only about every 10 years.
All in all it's been a really good trailer for bikes, mowers, dirt, moving, etc...

[Tx Bohemian]

A hub shouldn't wear. A cup spins in a hub due to either the wrong cup being installed or more often, the bearing goes bad usually from lack of maintenance and seizes causing the cup to spin.

Yeah, I'm sure it's from that.

If the hub isn't too bad as you say, if mine I'd probably just 'punch' it and run it.
Take your trusty punch and prick 2 rows around the diameter with 8 'pricks' to a row. The  rows about 1/4 to 1/3 the way from edge.

Ford [ I grew up in a Ford garage] had such a problem with brand new cars when I was a youngster and this was their fix. Apparently they got tired of having customer cars down and having to supply new hubs. We complained like crazy and a factory rep showed up showing and telling us to do this. It works, never had a problem with one. The punch marks should be equally spaced around the diameter and of about the same size/depth. The second row the same but spaced to the center of the first row. This does allow the cup to center itself. The punch marks really don't have to be very deep/big.

Thanks for the proper Procedure.  I've done a few "pricking" but just willy-nillyed it. Never knew there was a preferred method.
I'll probably end up doing that, ain't got nothing to lose...

One bearing company does offer a bearing outer race that the OD dia is .03 bigger in this size bearing. The races come separate so I might just try that too although that might be too big.

OldTooSoon sent me a # to another trailer company, I'll see if they can help.

[Sorcerer]

It's been some time but I seem to remember a lock tite product just for your situation. The 84 GL1200s rear right wheel bearing hole was a bit out of spec. One of the fixs was a lock tite product. Honda wanted dealers to try that first before replacing the rim.

[art]

You could bring it to a machine shop and if there is enough material it can be machined and a bushing installed and machined to fit the bearing race. Just like new. That is standard procedure for bearing wear fix. I've done it many times.

[Robert]

Get a feeler gauge in the correct thickness put it in the hub and use the bearing stamped in to keep it in place. The longer feeler gauges work well and can wrap all the way around. It may take a couple of tries because sometimes when the bearing goes in it wants to take the shim/ feeler gauge with it. May take a couple of tries but with only 3 thou clearance to take up you'll do fine. If you cannot wrap it around then just use in in 4 places at 90 works well. Its usually a permanent fix if you keep the bearings greased if you get the fit right.

[Patrick]

Yep, there are a few choices.
I don't care for the lock-tite method because the cup can wander around and end up off center. Using lock-tite along with the prick punch will work, but, over-kill.  Not that thats bad though, I tend to like over-kill.

The over size cup is a good option too, but, would probably require opening the hole. .030" is a lot.