Any electronics guys ?

[Jeff K]

I popped a cap on a clothes wdryer circuit board. They don't make them anymore and even if they did I'm not sure I'd spend that kind of money on this dryer.
C34 popped when I powered it on because the line and neutral were swapped on the cord. I'm trying to help my kids out with a washer and dryer but I don't want to put a bunch of money in this old dryer, though it worked fine before this mishap.

I can't find a schematic for the board, what is the possibility of figuring out what this was before the explosion? WAG method?

Maytag Neptune 33003028 DRYER CONTROL BOARD

[DenverDave]

Found this while looking for this part

"Control board. *Note: This part can no longer be obtained from the manufacturer. However, this part may be repairable. For information on repairing this control board, contact Circuit Board Medics at (800) 547-2049."

Might be worth a call

[cookiedough]

worth a call at least but my guess is they want to charge you over the phone to 50/50 chance of diagnosing it.

The dryer is worth 100-150 bucks tops so pick your poison on spending that much on a service call?

Maybe try calling local Maytag repair shop and you might get lucky with one tech that has had a similar circuit board issue with that particular model helping you out for free. 

I have washer issues on my whirlpool 23 year old unit vibrating took it apart 1/2 way and NOTHING is worn or broke that I can see without taking it apart all the way. 

What I did learn though is 2-3 appliance stores told me the same thing:  ONLY good washer that will last 20-25 years anymore is Speed Queen , the rest made in past few years ALL of them lucky to get 10-12 years out of them with speed queen costing a few hundred bucks more in price tops. 

[Hook#3287]

I just pulled my 25+ year old Hotpoint electric dryer apart cause I was sure the drive belt had gone. Turns out it was a tension pulley gone bad.

Ordered the parts from Partselect.com.

I never looked at the cost or availability of a board, but maybe?

[RP#62]

Is there enough of it left to be able to read the capacitance on the side?  It should show a voltage and a capacitance in uF.
-RP

[GiG]

Jeff:

RP's advice is good: you should be able to repair this board for pennies. If you don't find the exact capacitance & voltage values, go up.

Check on-line, these guys are EXCELLENT!

RepairClinic.com
Appliance Parts Supplier
48600 Michigan Ave, Canton MI
800-269-2609   -  Open until 7:00 PM

Website allows you to enter make, model, and will walk you through troubleshooting.
They sell repair parts and tell you how to install them. Definitely repairable.

Good luck.

(I use solar clothes dryer   )

[dreamaker]

What I have used for many years, maybe someone in your area. There are people in the area that refurbish washers, dryers, friges., and so on. I have always use them with good results. I paid $100 for dryer 15 years ago, and $150 for washer a few years. They have delivered, installed, take the old one and came with warranty, which I never had to use. Unless you need to posh, then I guess you need to match the set. looking at the prices, of appliances these days they are insane! Often, retired appliance servicemen, I look in the want ads of penny saver papers on so on. Just an option!

[Jess Tolbirt]

swapping the hot and neutral shouldnt blow a capacitor,, the power is changed from ac to dc as soon as it hits the board..and the rectifier bridge will determine the positive and negative outputs no matter the input..thats on the newer models...on the older models you can bypass all that crap and get a timer to run the motor and heating coils.. in series with the limits

[Jeff K]

Woo! Hoo!

Joanne found the carcass!!

[Jeff K]

It ran when we first powered it up but we both looked at each other and said "it sounds awful loud". Then POP! Before I could shut it off.


So I'm hoping that the Cap solves the problem.

[Wizzard]

is it wired to 110 or 220?. Wrong voltage can blow the cap and it may run at wrong speed for bit till the cap blows? Make sure your power is correct!

[Jeff K]

is it wired to 110 or 220?. Wrong voltage can blow the cap and it may run at wrong speed for bit till the cap blows? Make sure your power is correct!

Yeah, it is 220
I looked at the term block and it has a ground symbol next to the end terminal. So I took that as the neutral.
It is a ground point on the frame. Duh.

$1.49 at the rat shack, we will see if it comes back to life.

[Jess Tolbirt]

is it wired to 110 or 220?. Wrong voltage can blow the cap and it may run at wrong speed for bit till the cap blows? Make sure your power is correct!

Yeah, it is 220
I looked at the term block and it has a ground symbol next to the end terminal. So I took that as the neutral.
It is a ground point on the frame. Duh.

$1.49 at the rat shack, we will see if it comes back to life.

if you have a 3 wire connection then the neutral and the ground should be bonded,, if its a 4 wire then the neutral and ground are connected separately

[dreamaker]

Make sure before you walk away you understand why that cap blew, things don't happen for no reason. That is why they make fuses!!

[John Schmidt]

Make sure before you walk away you understand why that cap blew, things don't happen for no reason. That is why they make fuses!!

Look for a resistor that is discolored, might be the cause of the blown capacitor.

[GiG]

Make sure before you walk away you understand why that cap blew, things don't happen for no reason. That is why they make fuses!!

Look for a resistor that is discolored, might be the cause of the blown capacitor.

MAYBE. Probably not.
A discolored Resistor is a symptom, not a cause. Resistance can only increase, discoloration is from excessive current draw (like having the line wired incorrectly...).

Electrolytic Caps degrade and go bad all by themselves, over time.   

Many old "dead" devices are easily brought back to life by replacing electrolytics.
TVs especially.

[Oss]

dammit

Sure wish I understood a word of this stuff

The warp coil on my matter- antimatter flux capacitor is acting up and I cant get to warp 8

Seriously you electric guys rock

[RP#62]

Jeff, don't know how much you know about these things but those electrolytic caps are polarized.  The light color stripe marks the negative lead.  They don't like reverse polarity.

-RP

[wiggydotcom]

Make sure before you walk away you understand why that cap blew, things don't happen for no reason. That is why they make fuses!!

Look for a resistor that is discolored, might be the cause of the blown capacitor.

MAYBE. Probably not.
A discolored Resistor is a symptom, not a cause. Resistance can only increase, discoloration is from excessive current draw (like having the line wired incorrectly...).

Electrolytic Caps degrade and go bad all by themselves, over time.   

Many old "dead" devices are easily brought back to life by replacing electrolytics.
TVs especially.

And electrolytics usually will have a swelled or rounded top when they go bad. I had a Maytag fridge icemaker door and display act like it was possessed one time cuz two electrolytics went bad on the control board.

[NW roller]

Good luck fixing it. I hope you can. But take it from a guy with three rentals ..... Craigslist dryers cheap 50.00 bucks some for free just to get them out . If a 50.00 dollar dryer last 1 year you dam sure got your monies worth. I got a set for one of my properties for 150.00 bucks Maytag. The new house came with washer and dryer so they did not need their old ones. They were only 6 months old they just wanted them out . Just another option.

[Jeff K]

Jeff, don't know how much you know about these things but those electrolytic caps are polarized.  The light color stripe marks the negative lead.  They don't like reverse polarity.

-RP

Yep

[Gryphon]

The warp coil on my matter- antimatter flux capacitor is acting up and I cant get to warp 8

Sounds like you have a crack in one of the secondary dilithium crystals.  That would reduce the output of the warp drive and limit you to warp 7.

[BonS]

I have a different take on your problem. Not knowing whether you have a 3-wire or 4-wire wiring scheme all I can say is that you may have mixed up your wiring and the dryer was only getting 120 volts while running. In this case the bridge diodes (just to the left of C34) would have been running with too much current (thus the noisy motor sound) so they failed in a shorted state. Their failure led to C34 blowing up due to the subsequent AC voltage passed by the failed bridge diodes.

I would anticipate that one or both of the bridge diodes are blown. They can be measured with a multimeter. Other downstream components (most likely voltage regulators or integrated circuits) may also have been damaged for the same reason.

[Jeff K]

I have a different take on your problem. Not knowing whether you have a 3-wire or 4-wire wiring scheme all I can say is that you may have mixed up your wiring and the dryer was only getting 120 volts while running. In this case the bridge diodes (just to the left of C34) would have been running with too much current (thus the noisy motor sound) so they failed in a shorted state. Their failure led to C34 blowing up due to the subsequent AC voltage passed by the failed bridge diodes.

I would anticipate that one or both of the bridge diodes are blown. They can be measured with a multimeter. Other downstream components (most likely voltage regulators or integrated circuits) may also have been damaged for the same reason.

Well your were correct.
The 50 cent cap did not cure the problem. There are other issues.


It also needed a $1.47 thermal fuse for the transformer! 


There we go couple of bucks and a soldering iron and we have a matching washer and dryer again!