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Author Topic: Valk Clutch  (Read 1285 times)
4sarge
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SW Indiana


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« on: March 27, 2016, 05:15:34 PM »

911  tickedoff
 EZRider arrived to my drive Safe BUT I think his Clutch is OUT. Will Not Move Forward & when he attempts to let the Clutch out, it's making a terrible noise. Clutch has over 100,000 miles on it. Dilemma, Honda Dealers are Closed on Mondays & they ALL want an appointment. Anyone KNOW Anyone who can Diagnose & or Fix his Valk in Central Indiana? GOF Awaits
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Gavin_Sons
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« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2016, 05:17:37 PM »

Check driveshaft and pinion first
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Gavin_Sons
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columbus indiana


« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2016, 05:18:59 PM »

Where are you? Im in columbus and rainman is in bloomington. I can get a driveshaft and pinion tonight if that is what is wrong.
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Gavin_Sons
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columbus indiana


« Reply #3 on: March 27, 2016, 05:21:17 PM »

If it is the clutch, that will take more time.
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Thunderbolt
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Worthington Springs FL.


« Reply #4 on: March 27, 2016, 05:57:12 PM »

Hey Sarge it sounds like Gavin_Sons has a good starting place.  And there was help near you offered. 
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Patrick
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VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #5 on: March 27, 2016, 06:23:31 PM »

Can you determine where the noise is coming from ?  If its coming from the swing-arm area, then I'm going with what Gavin has to say.  Its either u-joint, pinion/ cup, drive splines, no matter, the wheel or drive shaft has to come out.
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six2go #152
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Ft. Wayne, IN


« Reply #6 on: March 27, 2016, 07:20:22 PM »

911  tickedoff
 EZRider arrived to my drive Safe BUT I think his Clutch is OUT. Will Not Move Forward & when he attempts to let the Clutch out, it's making a terrible noise. Clutch has over 100,000 miles on it. Dilemma, Honda Dealers are Closed on Mondays & they ALL want an appointment. Anyone KNOW Anyone who can Diagnose & or Fix his Valk in Central Indiana? GOF Awaits
Ron should have a spare U-joint, drive shaft, & pinion cup with him. He bought my spares a couple of days ago to have in case of a breakdown.
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4sarge
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SW Indiana


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« Reply #7 on: March 28, 2016, 05:55:05 AM »

911  tickedoff
 EZRider arrived to my drive Safe BUT I think his Clutch is OUT. Will Not Move Forward & when he attempts to let the Clutch out, it's making a terrible noise. Clutch has over 100,000 miles on it. Dilemma, Honda Dealers are Closed on Mondays & they ALL want an appointment. Anyone KNOW Anyone who can Diagnose & or Fix his Valk in Central Indiana? GOF Awaits
Ron should have a spare U-joint, drive shaft, & pinion cup with him. He bought my spares a couple of days ago to have in case of a breakdown.

Thanks, YES, he has them  cooldude
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six2go #152
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Ft. Wayne, IN


« Reply #8 on: March 30, 2016, 11:08:28 AM »

Does anyone know if Sarge & EEEZZRIDER are on the way to GOTF yet, or are they still trying to get Ron's drive line problems sorted out?
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rainman
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Steve ( rainman) Eads

Bloomington Indiana


« Reply #9 on: March 30, 2016, 11:17:20 AM »

Does anyone know if Sarge & EEEZZRIDER are on the way to GOTF yet, or are they still trying to get Ron's drive line problems sorted out?
Sarge is on is way to the GOTF but Ron is back home in Fort Wayne.  Ron's clutch blew up with him and I took him and is bike back to fort way yesterday to get it fix.  I didn't have the tool to get the drum off so I couldn't fix it for him.  no one has the parts it will be at least two weeks before it is ready per the Honda shop. But we got the bike and Ron safe back home.
« Last Edit: March 30, 2016, 11:21:02 AM by rainman » Logged

six2go #152
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Ft. Wayne, IN


« Reply #10 on: March 30, 2016, 11:23:46 AM »

You're a good man Steve.  cooldude
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DeathWishBikerDude
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« Reply #11 on: March 30, 2016, 05:36:53 PM »

Whats the price of the clutch job at a dealer?
$1000-$1500?
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Gavin_Sons
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VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #12 on: March 30, 2016, 06:58:54 PM »

Whats the price of the clutch job at a dealer?
$1000-$1500?

At least. I know a carb rebuild is 1100 at our local dealer. I can do that myself for less than 100 and a clutch for the price of the parts.
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old2soon
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Willow Springs mo


« Reply #13 on: March 30, 2016, 07:51:39 PM »

Just out of idle curiosity does anyone know how many miles Ron has on the Valkyrie that puked the clutch? And to all who helped-this board NEVER ceases to amaze me!  cooldude RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
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Gavin_Sons
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VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #14 on: March 30, 2016, 07:56:04 PM »

Just over 100k
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six2go #152
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Ft. Wayne, IN


« Reply #15 on: March 31, 2016, 05:29:56 AM »

I'm still not convinced Ron needs a new clutch. My Valk lost it's rivets and it didn't act at all like what was described here. I could still ride, neutral was almost impossible to locate,lever would not pull all the way to the grip, and the bike would creep forward while in gear with the clutch pulled in(like at a stop light). It made no unusual noises and I still had power to the rear wheel. Sarge said that Ron's made a horrible grinding noise and the bike would not move. This (to me) sounds more like a failure in the U-joint, drive shaft, or most likely the pinion cup.
I hope the dealership checks all possibilities before just throwing in a (maybe not needed) new clutch.
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henry 008
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BRP

willard, oh


« Reply #16 on: March 31, 2016, 07:19:05 AM »

Whats the price of the clutch job at a dealer?
$1000-$1500?

At least. I know a carb rebuild is 1100 at our local dealer. I can do that myself for less than 100 and a clutch for the price of the parts.

hey gavin, I've been thinking of pulling the carbs on my bumblebee because of the popping and crackling during deceleration. what kind of parts would I need to have on hand when I clean them?
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Safe Winds... Brother

Super Santa
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« Reply #17 on: March 31, 2016, 08:24:10 AM »

Popping and cracking during deceleration?  Replace vacuum lines in carb area first.  Easier, simple and cheap.  Quite often that will solve the problem.
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old2soon
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Willow Springs mo


« Reply #18 on: March 31, 2016, 08:52:13 AM »

Popping and cracking during deceleration?  Replace vacuum lines in carb area first.  Easier, simple and cheap.  Quite often that will solve the problem.
        Or IF ya don't wanna replace those vacuum lines do a desmog.  cooldude RIDE SAFE.
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
4sarge
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SW Indiana


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« Reply #19 on: March 31, 2016, 09:16:32 AM »

Does anyone know if Sarge & EEEZZRIDER are on the way to GOTF yet, or are they still trying to get Ron's drive line problems sorted out?
Sarge is on is way to the GOTF but Ron is back home in Fort Wayne.  Ron's clutch blew up with him and I took him and is bike back to fort way yesterday to get it fix.  I didn't have the tool to get the drum off so I couldn't fix it for him.  no one has the parts it will be at least two weeks before it is ready per the Honda shop. But we got the bike and Ron safe back home.


Steve,  Thanks for your Help, you were a Lifesaver for Ron. Good meeting  you 
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Let's Ride - VRCC

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henry 008
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BRP

willard, oh


« Reply #20 on: March 31, 2016, 10:11:02 AM »

Popping and cracking during deceleration?  Replace vacuum lines in carb area first.  Easier, simple and cheap.  Quite often that will solve the problem.

thx! was going to do that too, but i guess i'll do that 1st and see what happens.
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Safe Winds... Brother

wiggydotcom
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« Reply #21 on: March 31, 2016, 10:26:50 AM »

I'm still not convinced Ron needs a new clutch. My Valk lost it's rivets and it didn't act at all like what was described here. I could still ride, neutral was almost impossible to locate,lever would not pull all the way to the grip, and the bike would creep forward while in gear with the clutch pulled in(like at a stop light). It made no unusual noises and I still had power to the rear wheel. Sarge said that Ron's made a horrible grinding noise and the bike would not move. This (to me) sounds more like a failure in the U-joint, drive shaft, or most likely the pinion cup.
I hope the dealership checks all possibilities before just throwing in a (maybe not needed) new clutch.

+1... I agree 100%. Most of the clutches that go out are because of the bad damper plate rivets, as six2go said. The bike will still move and run until getting on the throttle hard. It will also have the signs as mentioned about the clutch lever not coming back to the handlebar on occasion. It depends on how badly the spacers are stacked up. Sounds more like a pinion cup issue to me also.
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GiG
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« Reply #22 on: March 31, 2016, 11:07:36 AM »

I'm still not convinced Ron needs a new clutch. My Valk lost it's rivets and it didn't act at all like what was described here. I could still ride, neutral was almost impossible to locate,lever would not pull all the way to the grip, and the bike would creep forward while in gear with the clutch pulled in(like at a stop light). It made no unusual noises and I still had power to the rear wheel...

+1... I agree 100%. Most of the clutches that go out are because of the bad damper plate rivets, as six2go said. The bike will still move and run until getting on the throttle hard. It will also have the signs as mentioned about the clutch lever not coming back to the handlebar on occasion. It depends on how badly the spacers are stacked up...


Yep. That describes about how mine acted when the clutch wore out in NYC 2010 @ ~160000 miles.  coolsmiley

Not a sudden complete failure, it was noticeable for a few days and I was able to ride it to get repairs.  Cool
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rainman
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Steve ( rainman) Eads

Bloomington Indiana


« Reply #23 on: March 31, 2016, 03:22:05 PM »

I'm still not convinced Ron needs a new clutch. My Valk lost it's rivets and it didn't act at all like what was described here. I could still ride, neutral was almost impossible to locate,lever would not pull all the way to the grip, and the bike would creep forward while in gear with the clutch pulled in(like at a stop light). It made no unusual noises and I still had power to the rear wheel. Sarge said that Ron's made a horrible grinding noise and the bike would not move. This (to me) sounds more like a failure in the U-joint, drive shaft, or most likely the pinion cup.
I hope the dealership checks all possibilities before just throwing in a (maybe not needed) new clutch.
Ron said that about two weeks ago the Ehlerding's Honda shop serviced the  drive train and lubed.  at first I through it was the pinion cup was the problem also. So we started the bike put in gear and let out on clutch and bike had no problem in wanting to move. So we jacked the bike up and engaged it and the back wheel started turning without letting the clutch out. When we got  to the shop  I ask them if they had serviced his bike about two week ago and they said yes and that everthing was good. So I hope is was right in saying it was the clutch
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six2go #152
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Ft. Wayne, IN


« Reply #24 on: March 31, 2016, 03:44:58 PM »

I'm still not convinced Ron needs a new clutch. My Valk lost it's rivets and it didn't act at all like what was described here. I could still ride, neutral was almost impossible to locate,lever would not pull all the way to the grip, and the bike would creep forward while in gear with the clutch pulled in(like at a stop light). It made no unusual noises and I still had power to the rear wheel. Sarge said that Ron's made a horrible grinding noise and the bike would not move. This (to me) sounds more like a failure in the U-joint, drive shaft, or most likely the pinion cup.
I hope the dealership checks all possibilities before just throwing in a (maybe not needed) new clutch.
Ron said that about two weeks ago the Ehlerding's Honda shop serviced the  drive train and lubed.  at first I through it was the pinion cup was the problem also. So we started the bike put in gear and let out on clutch and bike had no problem in wanting to move. So we jacked the bike up and engaged it and the back wheel started turning without letting the clutch out. When we got  to the shop  I ask them if they had serviced his bike about two week ago and they said yes and that everthing was good. So I hope is was right in saying it was the clutch
Steve, the main thing in this whole ordeal is that you stepped up and went above what anyone would have expected in order to get him and the Valk back to Ft.Wayne. Whatever problem they find is secondary, it will get fixed. Thank you for helping a fellow VRCC'er.  cooldude
« Last Edit: March 31, 2016, 03:46:33 PM by six2go #152 » Logged
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