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Author Topic: Oil Change (non Valkyrie)  (Read 1125 times)
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14885


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« on: August 05, 2017, 06:57:04 AM »

Man, do I love my Fumoto valve.  Lol.

If you don't know what that is, it's a brass fitting that replaces the drain plug.  You never have to remove it.  I bought the style that has a hose nipple on it.  So attach a hose and flip the lever over and oil drains through the hose directly into the drain pan without spilling a drop.
It's draining right now as I type.

This is on my F150.  The first couple changes, it was impossible to position the drain pan accurately enough to catch all the oil.  It poured everywhere, what a mess.

In a minute here I'll go out and flip the lever back closed and pull the drain hose off and it's done.
« Last Edit: August 05, 2017, 06:59:16 AM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
msb
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Posts: 2284


Agassiz, BC Canada


« Reply #1 on: August 05, 2017, 07:34:34 AM »

Watched the video on their site...there's also several other brands  and the push and twist variations that are similar. Sure would make it easier especially for changing the oil hot. Probably just me, but I would always wonder if the  valve was sealed properly or if that lever somehow got pushed open, although it would eliminate the risk of stripping the thread in the pan, reinstalling the plug every time.
Would you install one on your bikes?
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Mike

'99 Red  & Black IS
gordonv
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Posts: 5766


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #2 on: August 05, 2017, 09:09:41 AM »

I believe some have.

I was thinking of doing this, when I had 1st heard of the device, on my BMW. The oil drain plug is above the cross member. Remove, and let the oil flow over it, into a pan.

Would be nice to have a drain hose over to the side of the cross member.

I have since heard that some BMW remove the cross member to get to it. Seems like a very big job for what should have had a hole through it.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Gavin_Sons
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Posts: 7109


VRCC# 32796

columbus indiana


« Reply #3 on: August 05, 2017, 10:39:20 AM »

I just ordered one for my tundra and sienna. The sienna is ready for an oil change and will be the first the dealer won't do. My tundra has its last service from the dealer on monday. Perfect time to get both changed over to these valves. When I operated heavy equipment all of our machines had ball valve drain plugs. Remove the drain plug and hand srew a threaded pipe with a hose imto the hole. It would press the ball up and let oil flow. Made it easy getting oil samples to send out.  cooldude
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Savago
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Posts: 1994

Brentwood - CA


« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2017, 12:05:21 PM »

When I first heard about it, I loved the idea and thought about installing one in my Valkyrie.

Then I did more research and saw quite a few reports on failure and the fact that it seems (?) to not allow to drain as much oil as the stock drain plug.

In the end, I decided to leave it as it is (and spend the money on gas).
:-)
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Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14885


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #5 on: August 05, 2017, 12:56:11 PM »

When I first heard about it, I loved the idea and thought about installing one in my Valkyrie.

Then I did more research and saw quite a few reports on failure and the fact that it seems (?) to not allow to drain as much oil as the stock drain plug.

In the end, I decided to leave it as it is (and spend the money on gas).
:-)

First two oil changes on my truck were messy and when all was said and done it took 5.5 qts of oil. Now, after the valve is installed, not a drop is spilt and it still takes 5.5 qts to get it to the full line.

I don't think I would bother putting one on my Valkyrie but it's night and day on the truck. Turns an all morning chore into a 15 minute task.
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Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #6 on: August 05, 2017, 03:39:25 PM »

They are nice but it would be great if here was such a thing for filters.
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cookiedough
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Posts: 11783

southern WI


« Reply #7 on: August 05, 2017, 07:05:45 PM »

I just ordered one for my tundra and sienna. The sienna is ready for an oil change and will be the first the dealer won't do. My tundra has its last service from the dealer on monday. Perfect time to get both changed over to these valves. When I operated heavy equipment all of our machines had ball valve drain plugs. Remove the drain plug and hand srew a threaded pipe with a hose imto the hole. It would press the ball up and let oil flow. Made it easy getting oil samples to send out.  cooldude

Have fun removing the 8 or so bolts/screws holding the flimsy skid plate on to get at the oil filter and oil drain plug on the tundra.  I can slide barely underneath my tundra and do it myself not jacking up the truck, but is still a 3 hour project or more sometimes.  Plus, you need an exact fitting oil filter removal cap to get that stubborn oil filter housing off, odd size.
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gregk
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Posts: 794

Retired

Chippewa Falls, wi.


« Reply #8 on: August 05, 2017, 08:25:01 PM »

This maybe the super invention for those vehicles that are a pain on the arsh to do.  Remember though that when oil is jot it will go places water won't go.    I had kinda similar on a rider I got last year and it leaked. i changed it out with a pope nipple an cap.    On the car an truck I put on a surgeons glove. If you use them just watch for leakage.
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Dave Ritsema
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Posts: 1720


South Bend IN


WWW
« Reply #9 on: August 06, 2017, 04:24:45 AM »

For my F150's I have an easier approach.
I sit in the waiting room for 30 minutes, drink coffee and eat a fresh chocolate chip cookie and pay the Ford dealer $39.95 for a synthetic oil change.

Tires rotated and air pressure checked, brakes checked , all fluids topped off, truck washed and they dispose of the old oil and filter.  Grin Cheesy
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VRCC 2879



Lake City Honda Warsaw IN
Patrick
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Posts: 15433


VRCC 4474

Largo Florida


« Reply #10 on: August 06, 2017, 04:31:43 AM »

For my F150's I have an easier approach.
I sit in the waiting room for 30 minutes, drink coffee and eat a fresh chocolate chip cookie and pay the Ford dealer $39.95 for a synthetic oil change.

Tires rotated and air pressure checked, brakes checked , all fluids topped off, truck washed and they dispose of the old oil and filter.  Grin Cheesy





Now thats the easy way !  Most of us don't like easy.   Grin
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Robert
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Posts: 17392


S Florida


« Reply #11 on: August 06, 2017, 04:42:22 AM »

I am glad they work for some but was always worried it would turn my Honda into a Harley.  Grin
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“Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don’t have time for all that.”
Chrisj CMA
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Posts: 14885


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2017, 04:59:10 AM »

For my F150's I have an easier approach.
I sit in the waiting room for 30 minutes, drink coffee and eat a fresh chocolate chip cookie and pay the Ford dealer $39.95 for a synthetic oil change.

Tires rotated and air pressure checked, brakes checked , all fluids topped off, truck washed and they dispose of the old oil and filter.  Grin Cheesy

I m sure it costs slot more than that at our dealership that I wouldn't trust to change a light bulb.
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Titan
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Posts: 819


BikeLess

Lexington, SC


« Reply #13 on: August 06, 2017, 06:15:07 AM »

For my F150's I have an easier approach.
I sit in the waiting room for 30 minutes, drink coffee and eat a fresh chocolate chip cookie and pay the Ford dealer $39.95 for a synthetic oil change.

Tires rotated and air pressure checked, brakes checked , all fluids topped off, truck washed and they dispose of the old oil and filter.  Grin Cheesy

You and I think a whole lot alike!
I take my vehicles to the dealer and pay them whatever they charge to do the job.
 cooldude
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cookiedough
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Posts: 11783

southern WI


« Reply #14 on: August 06, 2017, 06:45:32 AM »

For my F150's I have an easier approach.
I sit in the waiting room for 30 minutes, drink coffee and eat a fresh chocolate chip cookie and pay the Ford dealer $39.95 for a synthetic oil change.

Tires rotated and air pressure checked, brakes checked , all fluids topped off, truck washed and they dispose of the old oil and filter.  Grin Cheesy

that is a steal of a deal.  An oil change on the tundra if having to pay for it is over 50 bucks full synthetic oil being near 8 qts.   A tire rotation alone is 20-25 bucks. 
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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30859


No VA


« Reply #15 on: August 06, 2017, 08:05:35 AM »

Speaking of ease of simple maintenance, I have wondered if Dodge (my brand) has employee/engineer contests with awards for making stuff as hard as possible.

Two winners are the guys who decided to put the battery in a fender knockout, and the oil filter way up in the engine guts, so when you pull it (and getting a tool on it is not easy), the oil runs all over everything on the way down.

And the lying loose gas cap engine light. 

And the expensive wheel center caps, which fall off in a stiff breeze.
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Dave Ritsema
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Posts: 1720


South Bend IN


WWW
« Reply #16 on: August 06, 2017, 08:25:58 AM »

For my F150's I have an easier approach.
I sit in the waiting room for 30 minutes, drink coffee and eat a fresh chocolate chip cookie and pay the Ford dealer $39.95 for a synthetic oil change.

Tires rotated and air pressure checked, brakes checked , all fluids topped off, truck washed and they dispose of the old oil and filter.  Grin Cheesy

that is a steal of a deal.  An oil change on the tundra if having to pay for it is over 50 bucks full synthetic oil being near 8 qts.   A tire rotation alone is 20-25 bucks. 

Fortunately for me I have a dealer that I have dealt with for nearly 30 years and I trust their work. They also give me full synthetic for the semi-synthetic price since I am a loyal customer. For what they charge and do it really isn't worth it to do it myself.

 https://owner.ford.com/maintenance/service-coupons-and-offers.htmlhttps://owner.ford.com/maintenance/service-coupons-and-offers.html?couponId=SR010
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VRCC 2879



Lake City Honda Warsaw IN
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