First time with Rotella T6 + Honda filter wrench

[Savago]

Last Sunday while removing the faulty K&N filter in my St1300, I decided to do the oil change and use the Rotella T6 5W-40.

Also moved from K&N to Purolator Boss Black (good for 15K miles).

And the last but not the least, could use the new Honda oil filter wrench (07AAA-PLCA100). I can't recommend this wrench enough, even though the oil filter is readily accessible in our Valkyries, in a ST1300 it is hidden in the lower-middle of the engine block.

Another major advantage of the Honda wrench is that you can use it with a torque wrench (or an extension).
:-)

Let's see how the Rotella T6 is going to affect (or not) the gear switching.

For photos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRCZ8rgBnIqusr6C3

[Oss]

Nice option there, Ive always used my old strap wrench except for once used my giant channel locks when I couldnt find the strap wrench that was hanging right in front of the bike    .  A screwdriver will also work in a pinch but I havent had to do that yet

Only hand tighten the filter (pureone 14610)  Still have a few of the yellowish ones and a few gallons of the blue jug rotella  Always good to have extra !

Good luck with the combo  I am happy at 108k or so

[northernvalk]

LOL, channel locks...screw driver, I've used both many times!! I picked up a 45° set of oil filter pliers that I love, great tool.

[98valk]

I use this strap wrench
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-pc-rubber-strap-wrench-set-69373.html

suggest u use an oversized filter if using that boss filter. smaller size might be too restrictive causing it to be in bypass mode all of the time.

I use an oversized Pure 1 oil filter, PL14459. it is the largest diameter filter that fits and is a little longer length than oem.

[John Schmidt]

I personally don't ever use 5w oil, just too thin at start up and in many cases will show oil consumption. Partly due to the fact it's so thin it doesn't create a good a seal between the metal parts, especially in the cylinders allowing blowby. Also because it's so thin it will literally evaporate during the initial start-up heat. I know a lot of mfrs. call for it in new cars, over the years I've discussed this with professional engine builders and have never had 5w recommended for the reasons mentioned. There's a major difference in the quality of protection between a 5w and 10w oil, but to each their own. 

[98valk]

I personally don't ever use 5w oil, just too thin at start up and in many cases will show oil consumption. Partly due to the fact it's so thin it doesn't create a good a seal between the metal parts, especially in the cylinders allowing blowby. Also because it's so thin it will literally evaporate during the initial start-up heat. I know a lot of mfrs. call for it in new cars, over the years I've discussed this with professional engine builders and have never had 5w recommended for the reasons mentioned. There's a major difference in the quality of protection between a 5w and 10w oil, but to each their own. 

thinner at startup reduces wear. 5w is not too thin esp with the high oil pump pressure of the GL1500 engine.
remember performance engine builders usually build on the loose side of specs esp. the piston rings to increase HP and to compensate for the high temps and expansion during temps seen during racing.
street engines 5w is very beneficial for less wear during startup.

http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=hydrodynamic_journal_bearing

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3295197/4

[Chrisj CMA]

Channel lock pliers here standard procedure. What puzzles me is why when I hand tighten all oil filters is the Valkyrie filter so tight at removal. The one on my truck comes off easily by hand.

[da prez]

Chris , are you lubing the gasket with oil. You probably are , but it happens. Some filters are marked "do not use grease". It causes swelling of the O-ring. I have had filters that we had to cut off. I worked in the heavy truck trades and we had out days. Some filters were torqued on.

      John , I use rotella 15/40 in my bikes.  A few years ago  Honda Hybred used 0W5 oil in the concept cars.

                                                    da prez

[John Schmidt]

Ross, great minds....etc.    That's what I use, full syn, change once a year or every 7-8k. One of my granddaughters was using 5w oils in her Mustang 5.0, from new through 20k miles it used oil between changes. To say she was upset would be an understatement, especially with a new car. She finally went to a small local shop that did all of her mom's repair/maint. on her 200k mile Lincoln that never used a drop until the day she traded it. He told her she should have been using at least a 10w from day one, that's what her mom was using all along....and it wasn't synthetic either. She switched and now with over 100k....still no consumption.

Old gramps here had told her to do that the day she drove it home, but I guess six years ago I wasn't as smart as I am today.    One neat thing....she changes her own oil/filter, air filter, etc., comes out from under the car with oil on her hands and always has a spot of grease on her nose. She's a cutie!

[Oss]

I have noticed that when I change the oil it is always less than a gallon going into the used oil container.

When I returned from my 7000 mile ride it was just about a quart low which really surprised me.

I attributed it to running high speed for so much of the time but it is entirely possible that I was getting oil blow by at starting temps.

Nevertheless, IMHO the bike shifts better, runs quieter than the amsoil oil test I did for 2 changes and I can deal with losing a bit of oil over 6000 miles which is my average mileage for oil - filter changes until someone shows me a safe oil that costs 20 a gallon on sale delivered to my door  

[cookiedough]

I will have to see in a few years since just switched all 5 cycles and 2 ATV's to rotella t6 5w-40.  I use to use Amsoil prior to this year having only 2 cycles, but now having 5 is way too darn expensive to afford Amsoil oil at 11.50 per qt.  Besides, putting on 5K or less mileage on anyone cycle per riding season between oil changes pretty much any good oil should do not a high mileager. 

My atvs call for 5w-40 vs. cycles 10w-40.  A lot of ATV's and newer vehicles are all going now 0w-20 (or 0w-40 in atv case) which is like water flowing from the bottle almost. 

If anyone thinks the 5w is too thin upon startup, a lot of cycle owners are going rotella t4 in 15w-40 NON synthetic just fine even a few bucks cheaper as well per gallon jug.

[cookiedough]

Channel lock pliers here standard procedure. What puzzles me is why when I hand tighten all oil filters is the Valkyrie filter so tight at removal. The one on my truck comes off easily by hand.

I have the same issue a few weeks ago and every year I put on hand tight but go another 1/2 turn or so  not fully tight with the oil filter wrench but maybe 1/3rd of a turn from tight all the way.   EVERY single year the oil filter on the Valks are hard to get off, harder than they should be.  Now, my kids 97 magna piece of cake comes off very easily same oil filter used as well.  Weird for sure..

[98valk]

Channel lock pliers here standard procedure. What puzzles me is why when I hand tighten all oil filters is the Valkyrie filter so tight at removal. The one on my truck comes off easily by hand.

I have the same issue a few weeks ago and every year I put on hand tight but go another 1/2 turn or so  not fully tight with the oil filter wrench but maybe 1/3rd of a turn from tight all the way.   EVERY single year the oil filter on the Valks are hard to get off, harder than they should be.  Now, my kids 97 magna piece of cake comes off very easily same oil filter used as well.  Weird for sure..

has to do with the amount of heat that part of the engines sees. The Chevy 350 back on the 70-80s were known for oil filters that didn't want to come off for same reason.
remember only to turn 1/2 turn tighter after filter gasket touches the engine filter surface. always check for leakage while engine is idling, might need an 1/8 turn more.

[cookiedough]

having just changed 3 oil filters in past few weeks on 2 valks and 1 magna,  the oil filter once touches goes about 1 full revolution (give or take) fully tight with a wrench, so you would think 1/2 a turn of the 1 full turn until tight-tight should be easy to get off, right???  My 2 valks super hard to get off while the 97 magna piece of cake and I changed all of them last time.

[98valk]

having just changed 3 oil filters in past few weeks on 2 valks and 1 magna,  the oil filter once touches goes about 1 full revolution (give or take) fully tight with a wrench, so you would think 1/2 a turn of the 1 full turn until tight-tight should be easy to get off, right???  My 2 valks super hard to get off while the 97 magna piece of cake and I changed all of them last time.

just checked a purolator box, and it has 3/4 turn by hand. I have always done it by hand, never a wrench.

[Alberta Patriot]

Last Sunday while removing the faulty K&N filter in my St1300, I decided to do the oil change and use the Rotella T6 5W-40.

Also moved from K&N to Purolator Boss Black (good for 15K miles).

And the last but not the least, could use the new Honda oil filter wrench (07AAA-PLCA100). I can't recommend this wrench enough, even though the oil filter is readily accessible in our Valkyries, in a ST1300 it is hidden in the lower-middle of the engine block.

Another major advantage of the Honda wrench is that you can use it with a torque wrench (or an extension).
:-)

Let's see how the Rotella T6 is going to affect (or not) the gear switching.

For photos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRCZ8rgBnIqusr6C3

T6 is excellent oil...the 5W helps get oil to critical parts faster for those in northern areas for cold morning starts.
Also...it has the JASO-MA rating. There a lot of sport bike riders that use it instead of crazy expensive moto oil at 3 time the cost.  JASO-MA tells you all you need to know about whether it is good for metric bikes.
Pure Synthetic allows for more miles between changes so it is probably no more costly than good Dino Oil.

[cookiedough]

what part number is the purolator BOSS black oil filter?

Next year going probably purolator route since hi-flo filters have been buying for years are now around 8.50 each and I know purolator oil filters are readily available at my local farm and fleet.  I know the boss purolators are more money but they do go on sale from time to time along with the other purolator blue oil filters.  thinking of going black on my black I/S and dark blue on my dark blue tourer - gotta match ya know....

I like the fact it is LONGER oil filter as well holding more oil and not so tiny as the stock oil filters are. 

Not so sure a HONDA chrome (or just metal?) oil filter removal wrench is needed but if it fits and the price is right (say under 10 bucks) why not right?    My oil filter removal wrench must not have EXACTLY the mm needed since slips but a rag over the top of the oil filter usually does the trick keeping it from slipping off the oil filter. 

I just think hand tight only is not tight enough since can get another easily 3/4 turn or more using a wrench but not super tight all the way full snug tight with a wrench is definitely not needed. 

[Oss]

the three filters are all the same #

the pureone is good for 10ooo miles
the boss for 15ooo miles

Personally I wont ride over 8ooo ever without an oil change and am more comfortable lower than that even with the rotella

Did you see the video of the 3 purolator filters ?  nice post

[98valk]

[/quote]
T6 is excellent oil...the 5W helps get oil to critical parts faster for those in northern areas for cold morning starts.
Also...it has the JASO-MA rating. There a lot of sport bike riders that use it instead of crazy expensive moto oil at 3 time the cost.  JASO-MA tells you all you need to know about whether it is good for metric bikes.
Pure Synthetic allows for more miles between changes so it is probably no more costly than good Dino Oil.
[/quote]

http://www.lngpublishing.com/LNGmagazine/index.cfm
this months issue
http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/e9f4b3fd#/e9f4b3fd/1

see article  Two-wheelers love oil too!

JASO spec'd motorcycle oil are basically the same specs as heavy-duty diesel oil standards.
JASO does not test oils, manufactures pay a fee to JASO and state their oil meets the specs.

latest info on new diesel oil specs.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,96825.0.html

[Alberta Patriot]

So...are you saying that Shell would just label their product without complying to the JASO-MA standards?...not sure they would be willing to do that.  

[98valk]

So...are you saying that Shell would just label their product without complying to the JASO-MA standards?...not sure they would be willing to do that.  

why put words in my mouth, never wrote that or implied that.
did u read the article?  Fact, Jaso does not test oils for compliance. the companies pay for the authority to state that it does meet Jaso.  similar thing goes on with SAE compliance. That's why for yrs Amsoil could not put SAE on their bottles unless they paid a fee. I think now they do.  same goes for motorycycle helmets to put DOT on it, DOT doesn't test helmets.  the manufacturer just states it meets DOT. there are more random helmet checks/test now than yrs ago by DOT after the helmets are already on the shelf.

http://pqiamerica.com/  expose oils that say SAE but are not. 

[Alberta Patriot]

I am sure not putting words in anyone's mouth, just not sure where you were heading with your reply to my comment about Rotella T6...thus the question mark after my question.

[Mr Whiskey]

T6 in everything for years,
(always ran their dino in the big trucks)
& the filter goes on about as tight as I can get it
with oil on my hands 

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

Is this the filter mentioned above that you folks are using on your Valks?
https://www.amazon.com/Purolator-PL14459-PurolatorONE-Oil-Filter/dp/B000E8T80Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1512317021&sr=8-2&keywords=pl14459
Have been using Fram motorcycle filters for years because I could get them locally but they are no longer stocked at my local auto parts store so I'm ready to change it up.

[cookiedough]

Fyre, do not go FRAM they are overall the worst oil filter on the market and tests prove it.  Not saying they cannot last 5000 miles which they probably will, but test prove some of their parts are inferior to other similarly priced oil filters so why not switch? 

I have been using for over a decade on my cycles either carquest or hi-flo oil filters in black since also under 8 bucks each or so, but thinking of switching now to Purolator blue or black ones since can get them locally at my farm and fleet store for about same price, even the longer ones which I will probably be doing before next winters oil change. 

[Mr Whiskey]

Wrong part #, might fit IDK but what most use is either the 14610 (long one w/more filter media) or 14612 (short).
There's a blue Purolator One & a black Purolator Boss...
(in both 14610 & 14612)
Here's the longer 14610's
https://www.amazon.com/Purolator-PL14610-PurolatorONE-Oil-Filter/dp/B000E8V9RG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1512316895&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=pl14610&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Purolator-PBL14610-PurolatorBOSS-Premium-Filter/dp/B01G6FPI1S/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1512316895&sr=1-7&keywords=pl14610

I always ran the longer one on the Valk (14610) but hafta run the shorter (14612) on the Wing for clearance issues.
I change oil every 5k so I jus' run the blue "One" filter &
save a coupla bucks

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

Fyre, do not go FRAM they are overall the worst oil filter on the market and tests prove it.  Not saying they cannot last 5000 miles which they probably will, but test prove some of their parts are inferior to other similarly priced oil filters so why not switch? 

I have been using for over a decade on my cycles either carquest or hi-flo oil filters in black since also under 8 bucks each or so, but thinking of switching now to Purolator blue or black ones since can get them locally at my farm and fleet store for about same price, even the longer ones which I will probably be doing before next winters oil change. 

Too late. Been using them for most of 120,000 miles although I have tried some other brands occasionally. I've always changed them and the oil at 5000 mile intervals.

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

Wrong part #, might fit IDK but what most use is either the 14610 (long one w/more filter media) or 14612 (short).
There's a blue Purolator One & a black Purolator Boss...
(in both 14610 & 14612)
Here's the longer 14610's
https://www.amazon.com/Purolator-PL14610-PurolatorONE-Oil-Filter/dp/B000E8V9RG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1512316895&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=pl14610&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Purolator-PBL14610-PurolatorBOSS-Premium-Filter/dp/B01G6FPI1S/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1512316895&sr=1-7&keywords=pl14610

I always ran the longer one on the Valk (14610) but hafta run the shorter (14612) on the Wing for clearance issues.
I change oil every 5k so I jus' run the blue "One" filter &
save a coupla bucks

Thanks!

[Mr Whiskey]