Rear Shock absorber installation, also a driveshaft question

[Scott from Virginia]

Hi All,

I'm brand new to this board, and still finding my way around, so please forgive me for posting what is sure to be a couple duplicate questions here.

I just came in possession of my brother's 2001 Valkyrie Standard after he passed away, and while he kept his cycle in excellent running condition, he left me with the task of putting together the rear shocks and rear brakes before I could return home with it. He's in Chicago, I live in Virginia, and plan to ride it home.

Question 1)  I expect this to be a very minor job to reassemble the rear shocks and rear brake, but would anyone here have an image of where all the spacers/bushings/washers go, so that I can assemble it correctly?

Question 2) When we all were out visiting my brother before he passed, I started the bike to make sure that 1 year of sitting was not going to be an issue (it wasn't. he drained the carbs, etc and put the battery on a maintenance charger, so the bike fired right up and sounded great!).  However, the owner-brother had the wheel supported by the axle bolt on the pipes (protected with padding), and my other brother who is a moron that acts before he thinks, tapped the axle in place which made the wheel fall unsupported to the full extension of the swingarm.  I read recently that this might result in damage to the universal joint, or something else in the drive shaft.  Can you all tell me what might have happened, and what I need to check?  And would this be a risk in advance of a 900 mile ride home?


Thank you in advance for your help!
Scott

[Fazer]

I'm sure others will chime in, but you should get yourself a manual--the Honda one is better than the Clymers.  Here is a link to Partzilla that you can look around on for pictures of everything you will need. 

Shocks and rear brake is not a big deal.  I don't know why your brother slid the axle out as it is not necessary to replace the brake pads.  If he is working on the caliper, then maybe.  While it's not good to let the wheel drop as you described, I can't imagine the rear end or the U joint being harmed.  After getting your brake work done, you can raise and lower the bike as needed to get the shock bolts to line up (assuming you have a jack under it).  Or you can use a ratchet strap to raise and lower the swing arm as required to line the shocks up.  That's what I do when I remove the rear wheel.  Lots of methods to do this.  Check out Dag's site www.valkyrienorway.com.  He will walk you thru removing the wheel.  There is also a link to a pdf version of the Honda manual on his site.

This board is your friend.  Lots of help available.

Good luck. 

[The emperor has no clothes]

When putting the right side shock back on, be careful with the bottom mount. It can get stripped or broken easily. It doesn’t need much tightening, it just holds it in place. I doubt any damage was done to the ujoint. Sorry to hear about your brothers passing.

[Scott from Virginia]

I'm sure others will chime in, but you should get yourself a manual--the Honda one is better than the Clymers.  Here is a link to Partzilla that you can look around on for pictures of everything you will need. 

Shocks and rear brake is not a big deal.  I don't know why your brother slid the axle out as it is not necessary to replace the brake pads.  If he is working on the caliper, then maybe.  While it's not good to let the wheel drop as you described, I can't imagine the rear end or the U joint being harmed.  After getting your brake work done, you can raise and lower the bike as needed to get the shock bolts to line up (assuming you have a jack under it).  Or you can use a ratchet strap to raise and lower the swing arm as required to line the shocks up.  That's what I do when I remove the rear wheel.  Lots of methods to do this.  Check out Dag's site www.valkyrienorway.com.  He will walk you thru removing the wheel.  There is also a link to a pdf version of the Honda manual on his site.

This board is your friend.  Lots of help available.

Good luck. 

Thank you, Fazer, for the link to Dag's site. I will definitely have a look at that.
I don't know why he took apart what he did, but the bold was to support the wheel while the shocks were off.  All I know is that I have a Rubbermaid container several fasteners, spacers, etc.  The parts diagrams will help with all that, and again, thank you!
Regarding the manual, the problem is that I need the info in a day, rather than 3-5 days. I have similar experience with manuals for my other bikes, and have a factory manual for each of them. My other bikes are a 2005 FJR1300 and a 1997 Buell Cyclone. The Clymer manuals are okay, but the factory manuals are better!
I really didn't need or want a 3rd bike (and like my other two) but I have it now, and it will have a home forever, at this point.
And at least, it is a really cool bike!

[Scott from Virginia]

When putting the right side shock back on, be careful with the bottom mount. It can get stripped or broken easily. It doesn’t need much tightening, it just holds it in place. I doubt any damage was done to the ujoint. Sorry to hear about your brothers passing.

Thank you, Meathead, I will definitely pay attention to that.

[old2soon]

Sent you a P M. RIDE SAFE.

[Jess from VA]

Besides a manual, another great help is logging onto any of a number of sites that have the (HONDA) Valkyrie Motorcycle schematics of parts assemblies.  It can take a little time to learn to navigate these parts fishes, and sometimes what you are looking for is not where you think it should be.  Once you find it, you can save it to your documents for quick reference, or print them out to take out to the bike.

These parts fishes have both 1) pictures of parts assemblies, then below that 2) individual parts lists, part numbers and prices.

There are some minor differences between models (and some early years) of Valkyries, so when logging in, try to do so with your year and model.  But the vast majority of stuff is all the same.  

Like this:    https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1999-honda-valkyrie-interstate-gl1500cf/o/m151389#sch307301

https://shop.procaliber.com/oempartfinder.htm?aribrand=HOM&arian=MOTORCYCLE

https://shop.procaliber.com/oempartfinder.htm?aribrand=HOM&arian=MOTORCYCLE#/Honda/GL1500CFA_(99)_VALKYRIE_INTERSTATE,_USA,_VIN%23_1HFSC410-XA000001/REAR_SHOCK_ABSORBER/GL1500CF-99-A/14MBYXE1AMBY4F2600A

https://shop.procaliber.com/oempartfinder.htm?aribrand=HOM&arian=MOTORCYCLE#/Honda/GL1500CFA_(99)_VALKYRIE_INTERSTATE,_USA,_VIN%23_1HFSC410-XA000001/REAR_BRAKE_CALIPER/GL1500CF-99-A/14MBYXE1AMBY4F1400AA

Finally, note that these parts fishes are for Honda OE parts, and if your bike had/has aftermarket shocks on it (very common), the assembly visa vi, the attachment points, washers, bushings may be different from stock.  The bolts to hold them on will be the same OE bolts, but maybe not the rest.

OE shocks are Showa brand, and solid cased without visible coil springs like most aftermarket shocks.

If you are seeing coil springs, they are not OE shocks.  If you can tell who made them, you may be able to log on to their website and look for assembly diagrams there.

Also, assembling the rear wheel, axle, rear caliper, and spacer by yourself can be a chore without help.  A trick for the one man operator is to slide the axle through the wheel and pumpkin, but leave the caliper and spacer out.  With the axle all the way through, the heavy wheel and tire is supported and lined up with the drive splines and can be wiggled into proper alignment and position.  Once that's done, you slide the axle back out just enough to fit the caliper and spacer back in. Calipers should never be left hanging on the hydraulic lines... use a bent up coat hanger or something.

There is something called a thrust washer in this assembly, do not forget to put it where it goes. #5 on the rear wheel OE parts fishe.

The fact the wheel dropped down unsupported should not have hurt anything, but what you don't want to do is rotate the tire while in that dropped down position.  That can kink or bind the Ujoint up at the transmission output.  Most of us keep the bike in gear during this process so that does not happen.

I have found this link useful many times in the past.  It is for changing a Ujoint, but even if not changing a Ujoint, it is instructive anytime you are messing with the back end.  When you click on each picture, you get more detailed instructions/discussion.  This link has many other how-to's in it.

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html

[Gryphon Rider]

If the U-joint is what stopped the fall of the wheel, I WOULD definitely check it before a long ride.  Unfortunately, it's a bit of a process to get to it, involving removing the rear wheel, removing the final drive gear box and drive shaft, and disconnecting the U-joint boot to get at the U-joint.

Inspect the U-joint for obvious damage, then check for looseness using John Schmidt's method, from this tech board message topic:

To check the bearings in the old u-joint, just slip a fairly large screwdriver into it and twist the blade. If the bearings are loose it will show up. You can't tell if one is marginal by merely doing it by hand, not the same action. The screwdriver tries to separate the parts, that's when you find out their condition. A new one will barely move, whereas a unit with a lot of miles will give quite a bit.

Many have found getting the U-joint boot back in place and reconnected to be difficult.  Warming it up to increase flexibility, and silicone lubricant helps it slip in place.  Getting the drive shaft inserted in to the U-joint when reassembling can sometimes require patience and determination.

There is also procedure for tightening the axle and final drive gearbox that is important to follow.

[JimC]

While you have the rear end hanging there, make sure you check the splines of the pumpkin for grease before putting it all back together.
That might be why your brother pulled it that far apart.

Jim

[Jess from VA]

There is also procedure for tightening the axle and final drive gearbox that is important to follow.

And here it is:  http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/rear_end_service.pptx

The procedure is sequentially important.  First A, then B, etc.

[Scott from Virginia]

Besides a manual, another great help is logging onto any of a number of sites that have the (HONDA) Valkyrie Motorcycle schematics of parts assemblies.  It can take a little time to learn to navigate these parts fishes, and sometimes what you are looking for is not where you think it should be.  Once you find it, you can save it to your documents for quick reference, or print them out to take out to the bike.

These parts fishes have both 1) pictures of parts assemblies, then below that 2) individual parts lists, part numbers and prices.

There are some minor differences between models (and some early years) of Valkyries, so when logging in, try to do so with your year and model.  But the vast majority of stuff is all the same.  

Like this:    https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1999-honda-valkyrie-interstate-gl1500cf/o/m151389#sch307301

https://shop.procaliber.com/oempartfinder.htm?aribrand=HOM&arian=MOTORCYCLE

https://shop.procaliber.com/oempartfinder.htm?aribrand=HOM&arian=MOTORCYCLE#/Honda/GL1500CFA_(99)_VALKYRIE_INTERSTATE,_USA,_VIN%23_1HFSC410-XA000001/REAR_SHOCK_ABSORBER/GL1500CF-99-A/14MBYXE1AMBY4F2600A

https://shop.procaliber.com/oempartfinder.htm?aribrand=HOM&arian=MOTORCYCLE#/Honda/GL1500CFA_(99)_VALKYRIE_INTERSTATE,_USA,_VIN%23_1HFSC410-XA000001/REAR_BRAKE_CALIPER/GL1500CF-99-A/14MBYXE1AMBY4F1400AA

Finally, note that these parts fishes are for Honda OE parts, and if your bike had/has aftermarket shocks on it (very common), the assembly visa vi, the attachment points, washers, bushings may be different from stock.  The bolts to hold them on will be the same OE bolts, but maybe not the rest.

OE shocks are Showa brand, and solid cased without visible coil springs like most aftermarket shocks.

If you are seeing coil springs, they are not OE shocks.  If you can tell who made them, you may be able to log on to their website and look for assembly diagrams there.

Also, assembling the rear wheel, axle, rear caliper, and spacer by yourself can be a chore without help.  A trick for the one man operator is to slide the axle through the wheel and pumpkin, but leave the caliper and spacer out.  With the axle all the way through, the heavy wheel and tire is supported and lined up with the drive splines and can be wiggled into proper alignment and position.  Once that's done, you slide the axle back out just enough to fit the caliper and spacer back in. Calipers should never be left hanging on the hydraulic lines... use a bent up coat hanger or something.

There is something called a thrust washer in this assembly, do not forget to put it where it goes. #5 on the rear wheel OE parts fishe.

The fact the wheel dropped down unsupported should not have hurt anything, but what you don't want to do is rotate the tire while in that dropped down position.  That can kink or bind the Ujoint up at the transmission output.  Most of us keep the bike in gear during this process so that does not happen.

I have found this link useful many times in the past.  It is for changing a Ujoint, but even if not changing a Ujoint, it is instructive anytime you are messing with the back end.  When you click on each picture, you get more detailed instructions/discussion.  This link has many other how-to's in it.

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html

Wow, Jess! Thanks for this. This is an awesome collection of information, and exactly what I was hoping to find!

I can't say enough to all of you who have helped how much I appreciate all the help from you guys!
Thank you all very much!

[Kep]

You said it sat for a year but fired right up...I would definitely run some Techron or Seafoam thru it (first couple of fill-ups or so) I prefer Techron , but some prefer others. O"reilly and AutoZone often run buy-one-get-one-free offers on Techron. If you come thru Indiana , you are more than welcome to swing by and borrow my Clymers manual to use while you're there.I believe I even have some diagrams stuck in it that I've downloaded and copied , from when I rebuilt my final drive.

[Fazer]

Binkle--update your profile with your location.  Several VRCC members in Virginia and may be close enough to lend a hand.  Also, our annual madness knows as Inzane is being held in Roanoke in June.  Try and make plans to attend if you want to learn more about the Valk. 

[Fazer]

Whoops--sorry Blinkie.  I thought you were the original poster. 
Scott, --Offer about Inzane still pertains.

[Jess from VA]

I think he went back and changed his handle after someone suggested he add his location to his profile.

[Hook#3287]

I think he went back and changed his handle after someone suggested he add his location to his profile.

Is he a cousin of yours? 

[Jess from VA]

I think he went back and changed his handle after someone suggested he add his location to his profile.

Is he a cousin of yours? 

Not that I am aware Bill.  Though I'm pretty sure everyone in VA is not my cousin. 

[gordonv]

PDF copy of the service manual here.

http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html

[Scott from Virginia]

I think he went back and changed his handle after someone suggested he add his location to his profile.

Is he a cousin of yours? 

Not that I am aware Bill.  Though I'm pretty sure everyone in VA is not my cousin. 

YEAH, We gotta fix that! 

[da prez]

  Scott, I am about an hour from you. That is depending on weather and traffic. Contact me if you need help. I have had a few Valks in for service. All you have to do is ask.

                              da prez     (ps, it may cost you a cup of coffee)