Sambeaux
Member
    
Posts: 73
'99 Std
Daphne, Alabama
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« on: November 03, 2009, 07:02:37 AM » |
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Not sure if any of this history is related to the problem but here’s the dope.
I have a 99 Std which runs great and has never had any mechanical or electrical issues. I was looking for better hand position so I rotated the bar upwards a few degrees. After making a couple of short rides, I decided that was the wrong move. (Yeah, I know – If it ain’t broke, why fix it !!!)
Yesterday evening, I rotated the bars downwards, past the original position a few degrees. I needed to adjust the mirrors, so I rode a couple of blocks to a vacant parking lot where I would have a better rearward view and could work undisturbed . The engine was warm and idling smoothly as I worked on the mirror then it suddenly shut down. Checked and gas was on. When I hit the starter button – nothing. All other electrical systems are working but the starter will not give up a grunt, a buzz or a click.
Battery is about 8 months old and seems OK, metered out at about 13+ volts. Kill Switch is run position. When I hit the starter, I see no change in the battery volts so I’m thinking the switch isn’t making up for some reason - but that would not have killed a running engine (???).
Haven’t started troubleshooting but was wondering if anyone had any ideas.
Thanks, Sam
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Mikey
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« Reply #1 on: November 03, 2009, 07:38:42 AM » |
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Have you checked the fuses? I had an older bike, same kinda problem... no electricals (but it was old enough it would run after you kick start it). The main fuse was blown. It took me a while to figure that out. I checked pretty much everything, and pulled the carbs apart twice. Was about ready to order a new ignition system when i stumbled across the fuse block and checked the fuses for sh!ts and giggles.
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Remember folks, street lights timed for 35 mph are also timed for 70 mph VRCC# 30782
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2009, 07:39:44 AM » |
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Check to see that you didn't mash the kill switch... I once had mine rocked halfway, sort of both on and off at the same time... bike quit while I was going down the road...
-Mike
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fast black
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« Reply #3 on: November 03, 2009, 07:43:52 AM » |
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kill switch that's what I would look at adios fast black
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Baloo
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« Reply #4 on: November 03, 2009, 07:46:50 AM » |
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Sounds like the kill switch to me too... Try rocking the switch on and off a couple of times to see if that'll help. Might be a bad contact in your switch...
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Never ride any faster than your guardian angel can fly...
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Sambeaux
Member
    
Posts: 73
'99 Std
Daphne, Alabama
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« Reply #5 on: November 03, 2009, 07:51:33 AM » |
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I can run down the fuse but would a blown fuse kill a running engine? Is the starter on a separate fuse?
I checked the kill switch at the time - it seemed to be function ok and was in the run position. I can disassemble to check the working - simple check.
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CajunRider
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« Reply #6 on: November 03, 2009, 08:32:18 AM » |
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Check the kickstand switch also... and there may be a couple other things in that line that have to be in order to start. (Neutral light??)
I don't remember all the things, but there are several that could hold out the ignition.
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Sent from my Apple IIe
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Sambeaux
Member
    
Posts: 73
'99 Std
Daphne, Alabama
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« Reply #7 on: November 03, 2009, 08:48:46 AM » |
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Good Point CajunRider - The kickstand was up and the bike in neutral when the engine died. After pushing the thing several blocks home, I can't say I know which gear it was in at my shop.
I have a general schematic I pulled off the net. Haven't had much used for it other than a few lightinging mods. Do you think that will that be enough information to track down all of the potential trouble makers or should I look for something more detailed? Any recommended sources for a better drawing?
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #8 on: November 03, 2009, 09:16:16 AM » |
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If adjusting the mirrors entailed moving the hand controls, you may have crushed, cut or broke a wire when rotating the hand controls to get the mirrors to the better setting.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Larry
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« Reply #9 on: November 03, 2009, 12:05:06 PM » |
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I have a general schematic I pulled off the net. Haven't had much used for it other than a few lightinging mods. Do you think that will that be enough information to track down all of the potential trouble makers or should I look for something more detailed? Any recommended sources for a better drawing?
Here is a link to more involved shematics in case you don't have this yet. http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/rpage01.htmlMaybe rotating the bars pulled some wire contact in the switch housing due to stretching like what Ricky-D said. If you only rotated the bar a few degrees not likely but you never know something might have already been a bit loose. Did you check your switch housing innards yet? ???
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To Ride or Not To Ride? RIDE of course!!!
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R J
Member
    
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
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« Reply #10 on: November 03, 2009, 12:54:04 PM » |
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Also check this puppy and hope it doesn't look like it, as you will be out about $35 clinkies.  If looks like the above, order this part from your stealer or HDL. It is for an older Gold Wing and a couple of wires in the plug need changed to fit your Valkyrie. Big Red one needs moved, I forgot what the other one was now. Basically match wire colors on the bike. 
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« Last Edit: November 03, 2009, 12:57:05 PM by R J »
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44 Harley ServiCar 
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Sambeaux
Member
    
Posts: 73
'99 Std
Daphne, Alabama
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« Reply #11 on: November 03, 2009, 01:41:21 PM » |
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Larry - Thanks for the link. This is a much more detailed schematic and is much easier to read.  RJ - Is that part for the starter relay?
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R J
Member
    
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
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« Reply #12 on: November 03, 2009, 05:45:26 PM » |
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RJ - Is that part for the starter relay?
Ya sir. The little red part you see that is melted....... It is not an exact replacement, but it is about $350 cheaper than the wiring loom. This is much easier to change out.
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44 Harley ServiCar 
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Sambeaux
Member
    
Posts: 73
'99 Std
Daphne, Alabama
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« Reply #13 on: November 04, 2009, 03:33:33 AM » |
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Gents,
Thank for all the assistance and idea. I really appreciate your insights.
After looking over the starter and interlock schematics, there are more possible beasties in that system than I had thought. I spent a little time looking last night but still nothing. Kill switch seems to be in working order. Plan on being the search in earnest this weekend.
Thank again,
Sambeaux.
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« Last Edit: November 04, 2009, 03:35:35 AM by Sambeaux »
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Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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« Reply #14 on: November 04, 2009, 04:17:23 AM » |
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Lean angle (tip switch) could have problem. Just another thought.
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Sambeaux
Member
    
Posts: 73
'99 Std
Daphne, Alabama
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« Reply #15 on: November 04, 2009, 04:45:12 AM » |
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I sort of knew that switch was there It was sort of a urban ledgen to me. I had completly forgotten about it until I saw it on the schematic. I'm not sure where it is located but assume its under the seat I know it will shut down the engine if the bike goes over but does anyone know how the mechanics of the switch work?
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Baloo
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« Reply #16 on: November 04, 2009, 07:22:08 AM » |
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Sambeaux, During my cruise control installation, I happened to reinstall the bank angle sensor upside down  I learned later that I wasn't the only one, but that is another story.  From what I could observe, there must be a kind of balancer inside that spins around, so if the bike leans too far, it will kill the ignition. When dismounted, if you turn the sensor upside down, you can hear it click when it comes back to normal position. It is mounted behind the central cover, where the seat lock is installed. When the sensor gets in function, there is no more power. No ignition and no starter. If you cycle the ignition off and then back on, it resets.
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Never ride any faster than your guardian angel can fly...
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