CleoBen
Member
Posts: 60
2000 Interstate
Lewisburg. Ohio
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« on: June 05, 2018, 07:49:20 PM » |
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New to me 2000 I/S, 60K miles, no documented maintenance history.
I have the RedEye DeSmog kit in hand, and I've removed all the smog parts. What else could / should I do prior to reassembly since I'm that deep into the top end? Is there inspection criteria for the timing belts, or should I assume they are original and replace them due to age / mileage?
I have some other gremlins I'm chasing. I'll put them on a list and start a new thread for advice.
Thanks in advance,
CB
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« Last Edit: August 10, 2018, 06:51:59 PM by CleoBen »
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5760
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #1 on: June 05, 2018, 07:58:03 PM » |
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I've a set of intake o-rings to replace when I do mine, while the air box if off.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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Ramie
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« Reply #2 on: June 06, 2018, 07:02:28 AM » |
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While you have everything open you might think about installing a Dan Mark shutoff fuel valve.
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“I am not a courageous person by nature. I have simply discovered that, at certain key moments in this life, you must find courage in yourself, in order to move forward and live. It is like a muscle and it must be exercised, first a little, and then more and more. A deep breath and a leap.”
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Led
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« Reply #3 on: June 06, 2018, 10:10:05 AM » |
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One thing I would do, is a valve clearance check. Who knows if it was ever done? A peek at the belt can be done while you do the valve check, as you need to get into the front of the engine anyway.......just a lot more bolts to take out, is all! Rather than the little access cover to the crankshaft nut. A timing belt "should" be good for longer than 60,000.....but I figure, if you go to the trouble of taking the cover off to look at it, you may as well just throw a new belt on it right away!!  |
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« Last Edit: June 06, 2018, 10:36:36 AM by Led »
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davit
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« Reply #4 on: June 06, 2018, 11:11:18 AM » |
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I would replace all three fuel lines inculding the t fitting. God bless ethanol.
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da prez
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« Reply #5 on: June 06, 2018, 02:36:28 PM » |
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Rebuild the stock fuel shut off. Make sure the fuel lines are the correct length. Replace the vacuum hose for the fuel shut off and it can be run to the right rear intake runner. Easier to install. Install new vacuum caps on the other five runners. I use the 14mm freeze plugs. Personal preference. The runner o-rings are usually in need of changing. When you re-install the air box , make sure all the tubes are on properly. While the clamps are off , make sure the screws are freed up. Take your time and ask if you are not sure.
da prez
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CleoBen
Member
Posts: 60
2000 Interstate
Lewisburg. Ohio
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« Reply #6 on: June 06, 2018, 03:54:36 PM » |
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Good advice on the petcock while the tank is off and new fuel lines all around. Any idea what total length I'll need to buy? I have new vacuum petcock hose. the vacuum caps for the other cylinders, and the shiny desmog kit to plug the holes in the heads.
I'm not sure what you are referring to as "runners?" If they are the chrome pipes between the carbs and the heads, then the o-rings are a bit squared so I'll definitely replace them.
Thanks for the replies! What else?
CB
Is there an automotive equivalent for the timing belts, or should I stick to OEM?
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LB
Member
Posts: 84
2003
Upstate South Carolina
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« Reply #7 on: June 06, 2018, 04:08:08 PM » |
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Is there an automotive equivalent for the timing belts, or should I stick to OEM?
Gates #275 or Napa #250275
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da prez
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« Reply #9 on: June 06, 2018, 07:11:38 PM » |
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The intake runners are the chrome pipes on top of the heads.
The last timing belts I bought were gates from Rock Auto. I think they were about $30.00 delivered.
da prez
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N0tac0p
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« Reply #10 on: June 07, 2018, 07:26:14 AM » |
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never had luck changing timing belts. always seemed to move just enough for the wrong tooth / notch that when tested, hear a click and viola bent valve, so even more work and cross fingers
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flash2002
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« Reply #11 on: June 07, 2018, 07:42:46 AM » |
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never had luck changing timing belts. always seemed to move just enough for the wrong tooth / notch that when tested, hear a click and viola bent valve, so even more work and cross fingers
When I do the belts, I remove the spark plugs then there is less chance of anything moving and it's eaze to turn. |
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old2soon
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« Reply #12 on: June 07, 2018, 08:03:13 AM » |
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When I changed out the timing belts on my I/S I had the shop light and an L E D flood light looking at the indicators tryin to make cursed SURE everything was okey dokey and zackly Where they should be-timing marks. Rolled the engine over with plugs out and listened VERY Carefully. When I put it all back together and fired her up-surprisesurprise-she ran ZACKLY like she sposed ta run! Take yer time be careful read the book on this procedure and under NO circumstances be afraid/worried/skeptical bout checking your work as many times as YOU feel it needs to be checked. RIDE SAFE. |
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Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check. 1964 1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240 2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion
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CleoBen
Member
Posts: 60
2000 Interstate
Lewisburg. Ohio
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« Reply #13 on: June 09, 2018, 11:23:04 AM » |
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Rebuild the stock fuel shut off...Take your time and ask if you are not sure.
da prez
Is there a rebuild kit for the petcock? I have a new fuel strainer screen set, but I don’t see anything in the IPC for the vacuum side. CB |
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Bone
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« Reply #14 on: June 09, 2018, 01:36:16 PM » |
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.jpg) It's called a cover set. |
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« Last Edit: June 09, 2018, 01:37:57 PM by Bone »
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Jess from VA
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« Reply #15 on: June 09, 2018, 02:37:55 PM » |
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CleoBen
Member
Posts: 60
2000 Interstate
Lewisburg. Ohio
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« Reply #16 on: June 09, 2018, 05:33:07 PM » |
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It's called a cover set.
Awesome, thank you! TB |
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CleoBen
Member
Posts: 60
2000 Interstate
Lewisburg. Ohio
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« Reply #17 on: August 10, 2018, 07:05:40 PM » |
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Desmog is complete, also overhauled the OEM petcock with the cover set, all new fuel tubes, new intake runner o-rings and graphite exhaust gaskets. Fired up the beast Wednesday night and it was quite happy to be breathing again!
1. Two quick trips (<10 miles each) today. Lots of exhaust popping initially, then they calmed down. By the second trip, the hesitation at mid-throttle range was gone, and the only popping I heard was on decel. Anything I can tweak to reduce them further?
2. I removed the heel-toe shifter adapter, went back to stock toe-only. Replaced the shift rod seal then reinstalled the gearshift arm and gearshift pedal. I aligned the gearshift arm on the punchmark on the shift rod, but couldn't find the mark to install the pedal. I put it on where I thought the punch mark was. PLenty of room for toes, but can't shift below neutral. Also when in neutral, full stop and clutch lever out, felt distinct vibration in the handlebars at idle. I don't see any interference with the shift linkage travel.
3. I didn't yet reinstall the pods for the test runs, and I felt a significant increase in engine heat when idling at a stop and at road/highway speeds. Is this just the absence of the pods, or is this a normal side effect of the desmog mod?
CB
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