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Author Topic: 1997 Valkyrie  (Read 1499 times)
M.Kyzer
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Posts: 6


« on: June 08, 2018, 04:06:01 PM »

Have a chance to buy one with a little over 5000 miles. Should I immediately change out the timing belts because of age?
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Led
Member
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Posts: 240

Wisconsin


« Reply #1 on: June 08, 2018, 04:28:14 PM »

Normally, they are good for 100,000 miles.........

Odds are, you may worry about a LOT of other things, before that!!!   Cool

Unless it was always cared for, like MINE is!!!!

Tell us about this bike......was it sitting since then?  Properly stored each season?  Just run, and then shut off, back in 1997?  Gas still in the tank from then???

Until we know more about the bike, the belt is the LEAST of ones worries!!!

« Last Edit: June 08, 2018, 04:34:24 PM by Led » Logged
M.Kyzer
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Posts: 6


« Reply #2 on: June 08, 2018, 07:44:37 PM »

Bike cranks and runs fine. A dealer took it in on trade for a smaller bike. It was a older gentleman who owned it. So I have no idea of its exact history. Just worried about the seals and timing belts
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Forge
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Posts: 227

San Antonio, TX


« Reply #3 on: June 08, 2018, 11:31:15 PM »

Bike cranks and runs fine. A dealer took it in on trade for a smaller bike. It was a older gentleman who owned it. So I have no idea of its exact history. Just worried about the seals and timing belts

I picked up a 99 Interstate with only 10,700 miles on it. I was also worried about the timing belts strictly because of the age of the bike, so I changed them for my own peace of mind. I picked up a couple of the Gates T275 belts for less than 17 each delivered on Amazon and it took me maybe 20 minutes to change them with this being my first time doing it.

Many guys say you don’t need to, but I wanted to be safe and am glad I did it. By the way, after removal, the belts still felt supple with no signs of cracking. I still am glad I did it anyway for less than 34 dollars total just to know what I have. Let other guys bitch all they want. If I want to spend or blow 34 dollars on my own bike and they don’t like it, screw them.
« Last Edit: June 08, 2018, 11:34:08 PM by Forge » Logged
oldsmokey
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Posts: 354

Mendon Massachusetts


« Reply #4 on: June 09, 2018, 02:34:15 AM »

If its what you like and the money is right, change the fluids and run it.  Unless of course the dealer did all that. If it was done, run it. Then you can whittle your way through items one by one.  Tires may be more of interest than belts, check date codes.
A rear tire replacement will open he door for a good check on drive items, not so much for wear but has the grease aged from time?
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Hooter
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Posts: 4092

S.W. Michigan


« Reply #5 on: June 09, 2018, 04:03:32 AM »

Did you ride it or did they just start it? Belts, should be good. If you buy it and want piece of mind, change them. Tires, check for weather checks, change fluids. My concern would be carbs. Ask the dealer if they have been cleaned. Fresh gas with half can of Sea Foam or Berrymans. Check and make sure gas tank is clean, no rust. The only way to find out if there are any problems is to check it as best you can, and if you buy it, ride it!
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You are never lost if you don't care where you are!
Motodad71
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Posts: 150


Westerville OH


« Reply #6 on: June 09, 2018, 07:07:04 AM »

If it had 50,000 miles on it, I'd grab it... but at only 250 miles a year, it will be a constant headache to you.

Really, please do tell? My 97 didn't many more miles on it than the OP, and I have yet to have a single issue. Yeah I will change out the pet rooster for a pingle "out of worry", and I have some new tires sitting in the garage. Other than the fork fluid getting changed and new seals put in, I don't see myself having to do much of anything to mine for quite a while beyond oil/filter changes.
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1997 yellow/black Valkyrie standard "Thor"
Gryphon Rider
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Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #7 on: June 09, 2018, 07:16:47 AM »

If it had 50,000 miles on it, I'd grab it... but at only 250 miles a year, it will be a constant headache to you.
What are these constant headache caused by? There might be carb or fuel rail seal leakage issues from lack of riding, and once those are taken care of they'll be fine for years of regular riding, but what else?
« Last Edit: June 09, 2018, 07:18:34 AM by Gryphon Rider » Logged
Led
Member
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Posts: 240

Wisconsin


« Reply #8 on: June 09, 2018, 09:59:36 AM »

If it had 50,000 miles on it, I'd grab it... but at only 250 miles a year, it will be a constant headache to you.

Mine has only 10k on Her......and She still runs like a Swiss watch!  Or would that be a Japanese watch??    Cool Wink
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gordonv
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Posts: 5760


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #9 on: June 09, 2018, 09:48:27 PM »

Shoptalk, Known Valkyrie Problems.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/

But at 5K miles, there shouldn't be anything wrong, other than gas issues, and old tires, why fix what aint broken.

What model, and how much, is the price right?

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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Tfrank59
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Posts: 1364


'98 Tourer

Western Washington


WWW
« Reply #10 on: June 11, 2018, 08:57:03 PM »

If its what you like and the money is right, change the fluids and run it.  Unless of course the dealer did all that. If it was done, run it. Then you can whittle your way through items one by one.  Tires may be more of interest than belts, check date codes.
A rear tire replacement will open he door for a good check on drive items, not so much for wear but has the grease aged from time?

 cooldude  what he said
« Last Edit: June 11, 2018, 09:22:36 PM by Tfrank59 » Logged

-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
Tfrank59
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Posts: 1364


'98 Tourer

Western Washington


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« Reply #11 on: June 11, 2018, 09:24:31 PM »

Shoptalk, Known Valkyrie Problems.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/

But at 5K miles, there shouldn't be anything wrong, other than gas issues, and old tires, why fix what aint broken.

What model, and how much, is the price right?




Yeah Kyzer, let me know if you pass on her!  Price can't hardly be wrong for a '97 Valk with 5k miles, unless it's like 5 digits Grin
« Last Edit: June 11, 2018, 09:26:06 PM by Tfrank59 » Logged

-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
MarkT
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Posts: 5196


VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


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« Reply #12 on: June 12, 2018, 07:09:10 AM »

I wouldn't worry about the belts until they get closer to 100k.  But they don't cost much if that gives you peace of mind.  I didn't change mine on my 97 yet and it just passed 47k.  I changed deerslayer's when it hit 110k a few years ago.  More appropriate, install a Dan-Marc elect. fuel shutoff to prevent hydro lock, and go to the facebook valkyrie site and look up Woodman's tech article on rear-end maintenance and do that.  Be sure to get some moly paste for the splines - hard to find but Honda dealers have it - they call it "Assembly Lube".  You can also find Loctite's Moly Paste online - I think Amazon has it. Important to clean off the drive splines and use that - regular grease - even synthetic isn't good enough; your splines will wear fast w/o moly paste on them. Molybdenum Disulfide paste is incredibly slippery and protective of metal sliding parts - the molecular structure has lattices that slip over each other. Google it -
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Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
DGS65
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Posts: 440


Time enjoy wasted is not wasted time

Nanuet, NY


« Reply #13 on: June 12, 2018, 06:37:23 PM »

My 98 only has 3900 miles and I change the belts last week just based on age.   I have to admit there was nothing wrong with the old ones but the effort to check them wasn't much less then changing them and as stated above I too went with the gates for $17 each.  Quick easy to do.
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M.Kyzer
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Posts: 6


« Reply #14 on: June 14, 2018, 06:52:00 PM »

Went and picked it up Saturday. 2 hour ride home with no issues. Reading all these posts on here about leaking petcocks...hydolocks and stuff I hope I will have time to put some miles on her....all jokes aside she seems to be in really good shape. Thanks for all the replies.
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oldsmokey
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Posts: 354

Mendon Massachusetts


« Reply #15 on: June 14, 2018, 07:14:15 PM »

Excellent cooldude Run it. You might want to verify the  fuel shut off works, pick a nice road, turn it off, 2-3 miles it should start to falter. It'll come right back when turned on. Thats no guarantee on the possible leakage through vac. line. What you choose to do from there is your choice. Mine id still original, habit is to turn off every time. Enjoy the ride.
« Last Edit: June 15, 2018, 01:21:46 AM by oldsmokey » Logged
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