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Author Topic: Suggestions requested for cleaning a hazy windshield  (Read 1155 times)
BINOVC
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Posts: 92

Southaven, MS


« on: June 11, 2018, 12:00:12 PM »

Background.  When I purchased my '99 IS 1-1/2 years ago, the windshield was VERY hazy.  I tried a few products (Meguiars Mirror Glaze Plastic Cleaner, M-M-G Plastic Polish, Meguiars PlastX Plastic Cleaner/Polish, Plexus). Nothing seemed to have any effect.  So I just got used to looking over the top, figured I'd eventually have to buy a new one.
The other day I happened to run my thumb nail across the windshield, and noticed the haze came off pretty easily.  So I tried the above products again, only with a foam applicator on a drill arbor (that came with my 3M headlight Restoration kit).  This did help, but EVER so slowly.  I could probably continue using my thumbnail just as quickly.  I have most of the top 2 inches in pretty good shape.
I have no idea if this is a typical windshield hazing issue, or if the PO maybe used some product that he shouldn't have.  I do know now that this windshield is perfectly salvageable, though it may take some time.
Question, anyone know of a product that will work better than the above-mentioned?
Thanks.
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Pete
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Posts: 2673


Frasier in Southeast Tennessee


« Reply #1 on: June 11, 2018, 12:13:49 PM »

Yes typical, it is the anti scratch coating.
It ages and start flaking off.

Use the Meguiars and a polisher would  be somewhat faster.  But still slow, but it leaves a nice finish.
Will take several applications to get it looking like new.
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RWhitehouse
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Posts: 111


« Reply #2 on: June 11, 2018, 01:16:07 PM »

Standard automotive rubbing compound. Get something with a fairly "heavy" cut so you're not there all day. I've had great results with the 3M Auto Advanced rubbing compound. Cuts much, much faster than a bottle of Meguiars Ultimate compound I have. Marine/boat stores always have good cut compounds as well for gelcoat work although because they say "marine" on them cost twice as much. As long as you don't let it dry out or "burn" the buffer in one spot too long scratching shouldn't be an issue. If you do end up with visible swirls or scratches, follow up with a finer polishing compound.

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Roidfingers
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Posts: 729


Tuscaloosa, Alabama


« Reply #3 on: June 11, 2018, 03:22:54 PM »

Mother's aluminum polish. I do head light assemblies with it. With a ball on a drill.
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signart
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Posts: 2095


Crossville, Tennessee


« Reply #4 on: June 11, 2018, 04:05:26 PM »

If it's the oem shield with protective coating that is turning loose, use a strip of wide duct tape and squeegee it down, then give it a good jerk and continue until it is all removed. Don't let the tape sit for any more time than it takes to remove it with a good swift jerk. The oem coating cannot be polished, but the bare plastic can.
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Paladin528
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Posts: 722


Greater Toronto Area Ontario Canada


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« Reply #5 on: June 12, 2018, 04:47:54 AM »

You should be looking over the top of the windshield anyway.  The top of the windshield should be in line with your nose when seated in the riding position.  This offers the best wind protection and visibility.
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BINOVC
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Posts: 92

Southaven, MS


« Reply #6 on: June 17, 2018, 12:48:06 PM »

Signart, you seem to be right on the money.  I used some cheap duct tape and was able to pull quite a bit of that crap off of there, making it much easier to finish with the Meguiars cleaner/polisher.  Windshield is now about 98% better.  Still not perfect, but getting there.
Best thing is this shield has some nice hand-etched (looks to me anyway) dragons and Valkyrie art from a PO, and I really didn't want to replace it.  Now I won't have to!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/cocojen/28989197968/in/dateposted-public/
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Jess from VA
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Posts: 30407


No VA


« Reply #7 on: June 17, 2018, 01:00:32 PM »

I throw old (failing) polycarb away, and get new Clearview (Lucite plastic).

I'm not rich, but have more money than patience.

I tried to clean off my car headlight covers.  Hours later, they were worse than when I started.

I just traded that car, but still have the new aftermarket headlight covers in my shed.  (oh well)

Anyone need new headlight covers for an '03 Dodge Intrepid?  (probably the same fit for a five-year model)
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F6Dave
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Posts: 2261



« Reply #8 on: June 18, 2018, 06:06:41 AM »

I throw old (failing) polycarb away, and get new Clearview (Lucite plastic).

I'm not rich, but have more money than patience.

I tried to clean off my car headlight covers.  Hours later, they were worse than when I started.

I just traded that car, but still have the new aftermarket headlight covers in my shed.  (oh well)

Anyone need new headlight covers for an '03 Dodge Intrepid?  (probably the same fit for a five-year model)

I'm with Jess.  A new windshield costs less than a set of tires.  I figure any windshield that gives me 20 years of service has done its job.
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BINOVC
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Posts: 92

Southaven, MS


« Reply #9 on: June 18, 2018, 12:22:32 PM »

I bought my first replacement I/S windshield a number of years back based on Jess's advice (from the Delphi board).
However this current windshield is tough to part with given the artwork engraved on it.  Even without that, it's not failing in my book - just needed cleaning up.
We all spend our dollars as we see fit.
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Bighead
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Posts: 8654


Madison Alabama


« Reply #10 on: June 18, 2018, 03:30:21 PM »

You should be looking over the top of the windshield anyway.  The top of the windshield should be in line with your nose when seated in the riding position.  This offers the best wind protection and visibility.
This^^^^^...
If you must look through it buy a new one....not that expensive.....and you will get 20 more years before needing to do again. 
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