This always gives me trouble.
(With the bars turned) working from the rear, I can look in and see the back end of the bulbs/covers/plugs, or reach in to work and not see, but not both.
When I watched Big BF do it, he sat on a chair in front of the fairing, and reached under and around to do the job blind. He is a lot faster at it than I am.
Over the years, after new bulbs are in for a year or two, I start to lose one or the other dim intermittently, but (with the bike running) when I whack the clear plastic IS light housing with the flat of my hand smartly, it comes back on.
On a recent ride in Roanoke, Joe May (next ahead of me) told me I was having one come on then off, all afternoon. (Yep right on time, about two years from new bulbs going in.)
The bulb is obviously not burnt out yet (on low beam), but the connection in there is not the tightest or cleanest it could be. This irritates me.
You never want to handle these bulbs with bare fingers, your greasy/moist fingers can etch the bulb glass when they heat up (Nitrite gloves are good).
I just keep whacking the light cover until it finally never comes on anymore (very scientific).
Every time Big Bill comes over, I get him to stick in two new bulbs (whether I need them or not). But about 2 years later, one or the other starts not coming on until it gets whacked (maybe for another couple years before it's permanently off).
I have the little keeper D rings designed to add to automotive H4 Halogen bulbs after the two tabs are broken off (rather than the more expensive OE 45/45 Honda bulbs), but I never use them anymore.... it just took me longer to get them all lined up than the bulbs alone, and they go in straight without the rings. But this may be part of the reason I get a loose connection after a couple years, every single time.
They can be had from
Electrical Connection company.
https://electricalconnection.com/index.php/product/h4-bulb-alignment-shims/They just make the job harder.
