suggestions - coolant temp gauge

[CANADIAN-F6C]

At some point over the last month or so the idiot light in the tach for the coolant over-temperature has decided that 20 years is enough & (like Elvis) it has "left the building". I reviewed the diagnose & repair information in the manual and I figure if I'm going to get in there & start pulling senders & sensors & such - I would rather install a gauge than just fix the light.
Has anyone got a suggestion for a gauge that's easy to install (the light isn't the only idiot in this story) and looks similar to the stock tach & speedo? Nothing fancy -- I don't need digital readouts or a bluetooth connection to monitor my heart rate & current saliva levels, just a simple analog gauge.
Who's got a success story?

[Ramie]

Here is one link, his picture links no longer work but the link to the gauges and the sensors are good.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,89958.0.html

[Gryphon Rider]

This is what I have:
https://www.autometer.com/2-water-temp-100-250-f-elec-arctic-white.html



There is an unused boss on the right side of the housing that can be drilled and tapped for a sender.  The picture below is from Jeff K's site.  The green thing (not the circle) is the OEM temp sender for the ICU.  The temp sender for the indicator light is on the other side:

[Bagger John - #3785]

I did the above on two of my Valkyries. On another two I used an adapter from Motosens and installed the sensor in one of the coolant galleries, in place of the OEM gallery plugs.

An aftermarket adapter from one of the gauge manufacturers would also work.

Both methods worked fine for me.

[Wayn-O]

Instead of going through all the work to pipe in a temperature sending unit etc, I just bought this.  Works well and I can tell at a glance what water temp I'm running at.

Mr. Gasket 2473S Import ThermoCap 16 PSI
http://a.co/faLEgAE

[RWhitehouse]

I tried one of the gauged radiator caps. The stock cap is 1.1 bar, or roughly 16 psi. Make sure the cap is that rating- many I see (and inadvertently bought) are 1.6 bar, which is more common on dirt bikes and ATVs that tend to run a bit hotter, although physically the cap fits fine.

Valk didn't like it. Coolant would dribble out of the cap when hot and blow all over the bike, and I found it would push a lot of coolant into the puke tank, but then not allow it back in, resulting in the rad being empty and the puke bottle overflowing.

Put the stock cap back on and everything went back to normal.

[knockdolian]

Hi, I’m not questioning what you say so please don’t misunderstand me. How do you know the light isn’t working. I thought the light only comes on if overheating. Would have thought that one would last the longest as it shouldn’t come on ? Have I got or wrong and mine don’t work either??

[Bagger John - #3785]

Hi, I’m not questioning what you say so please don’t misunderstand me. How do you know the light isn’t working. I thought the light only comes on if overheating. Would have thought that one would last the longest as it shouldn’t come on ? Have I got or wrong and mine don’t work either??

It should come on at initial key-on, then go off after the engine starts. The only time it should come on afterwards is when an overheating condition is occurring.

I'd be looking at the sensor and wiring to it - but a gauge is a nice addition and all of mine have them.

[knockdolian]

Hi, I’m not questioning what you say so please don’t misunderstand me. How do you know the light isn’t working. I thought the light only comes on if overheating. Would have thought that one would last the longest as it shouldn’t come on ? Have I got or wrong and mine don’t work either??

It should come on at initial key-on, then go off after the engine starts. The only time it should come on afterwards is when an overheating condition is occurring.

I'd be looking at the sensor and wiring to it - but a gauge is a nice addition and all of mine have them.

Thanks for that information. Mine doesn’t come on. I did know that. Only got my bike last Thursday. Hand book doesn’t say that. Thanks

[Daniel Meyer]

Hi, I’m not questioning what you say so please don’t misunderstand me. How do you know the light isn’t working. I thought the light only comes on if overheating. Would have thought that one would last the longest as it shouldn’t come on ? Have I got or wrong and mine don’t work either??

It should come on at initial key-on, then go off after the engine starts. The only time it should come on afterwards is when an overheating condition is occurring.

I'd be looking at the sensor and wiring to it - but a gauge is a nice addition and all of mine have them.

This is not correct, at least for the '01 standard anyway...coolant light does not come on, on initial key on....

[knockdolian]

I’ve, been doing some reading as only just bought the bike. Seems some do and some don’t ? Seems to depend on the year. My hand book  suggests it should only come on when overheating and not when ignition turned on.
Sorry for hijacking the post.

[Bagger John - #3785]

Hi, I’m not questioning what you say so please don’t misunderstand me. How do you know the light isn’t working. I thought the light only comes on if overheating. Would have thought that one would last the longest as it shouldn’t come on ? Have I got or wrong and mine don’t work either??

It should come on at initial key-on, then go off after the engine starts. The only time it should come on afterwards is when an overheating condition is occurring.

I'd be looking at the sensor and wiring to it - but a gauge is a nice addition and all of mine have them.

This is not correct, at least for the '01 standard anyway...coolant light does not come on, on initial key on....

My '99 Tourer and '01 I/S light all their dash lights (except for turn signal and Hi Beam indicator, unless activated) upon key-on.

'00-up models did away with the temp annunciator module, a part which has been known to fail.

ETA:

Just went to the garage to verify this. The Tourer lights its Oil Pressure and Sidestand warning lights on key-on (doh!) while the I/S lights its Oil Pressure and Coolant Temp indicator - the latter goes off after a second or so.

I'm wondering if I need to do some digging regarding that module...

ETA 2:

Page 19-11 of the 1997-2001 Service Manual (OEM):

"The indicator comes on when the ignition switch is turned ON."

My Tourer's doesn't. Something's fscky.

[sdv003]

My 99 Tourer does the same thing.  No overtemp LED at key on.  I do know it works, both from grounding the sensor and when it was getting just a bit too hot while idling at a light in the summer (when its 115* out).  I have a motosens coolant temp gauge as well.

[CANADIAN-F6C]

Thanks for all of the replies on this - seems I'm not the only one with a temp light issue. I don't think that overheating is an issue at this time. The fan cycles as it should, when it should (sitting in hot traffic) I'm going to give one of those groovy gauge-in-a-cap things a try. Seems to be the simplest solution at this point & I can look at adding a prettier gauge over the winter layup. Right now, it's riding season!

[Savago]

Installed in my I/S over 3 years ago and documented the process here:
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,90490.0.html

First advice: don't go cheap on the gauge. Buy something of high quality so you won't have issues during and post install.

I personally like Autometer gauges (they are high quality and made in USA).

[Wayn-O]

I tried one of the gauged radiator caps. The stock cap is 1.1 bar, or roughly 16 psi. Make sure the cap is that rating- many I see (and inadvertently bought) are 1.6 bar, which is more common on dirt bikes and ATVs that tend to run a bit hotter, although physically the cap fits fine.

Valk didn't like it. Coolant would dribble out of the cap when hot and blow all over the bike, and I found it would push a lot of coolant into the puke tank, but then not allow it back in, resulting in the rad being empty and the puke bottle overflowing.

Put the stock cap back on and everything went back to normal.

Yes, mine is 16 PSI. And so far no leaking or dribble. Works like a champ. For me, it was/is a much simpler way for me to monitor coolant temp without running plumbing or wires or finding space for another gauge.

[Gryphon Rider]

I tried one of the gauged radiator caps. The stock cap is 1.1 bar, or roughly 16 psi. Make sure the cap is that rating- many I see (and inadvertently bought) are 1.6 bar, which is more common on dirt bikes and ATVs that tend to run a bit hotter, although physically the cap fits fine.

Valk didn't like it. Coolant would dribble out of the cap when hot and blow all over the bike, and I found it would push a lot of coolant into the puke tank, but then not allow it back in, resulting in the rad being empty and the puke bottle overflowing.

Put the stock cap back on and everything went back to normal.

Yes, mine is 16 PSI. And so far no leaking or dribble. Works like a champ. For me, it was/is a much simpler way for me to monitor coolant temp without running plumbing or wires or finding space for another gauge.

One thing about that location is that you won't get a true engine temperature until the thermostat begins to open.