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Author Topic: She won't start, brand new battery  (Read 1111 times)
Grimmpatrick
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*****
Posts: 39

Mesa, AZ


« on: July 28, 2018, 08:25:51 AM »

97 Standard, 52,000 miles

Took her to work Wednesday afternoon, no problem. Get out to her 9 hours later, turned the key and all looked good. Hit the start button and not only did I not get anything, all the electrical died. Got a jump from a coworker, got home and put her on the tender. All seemed well.

The next morning, I tried to start her up, same deal. I figured it was the battery, so went to my local shop and got a new one.  24 hours on the trickle charger, put it in. She struggled a little, but started up and I figured all was good. 24 hours on the tender.

This morning, I got nothing. Seemed like with the first push of the button, it turned over a little bit but wouldn't catch. Second hit of the button, nothing. I didn't loose all the juice like I did on Wednesday, but she won't turn over at all.

Now she's sitting on the tender while I'm at work and I don't know what to do. Alternator? Starter?  I know that someone in the collective here will have an answer.

TIA
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1997 Standard
MarkT
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Posts: 5196


VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

Colorado Front Range - elevation 2.005 km


WWW
« Reply #1 on: July 28, 2018, 08:50:31 AM »

Move the battery ground off the aluminum engine block, to the left footpeg bracket bolt on the steel frame & try it again. Even if that isn't it - that poor ground will cause a problem later so it should be moved anyway. If that's not it, look at the starter relay under the right side cover.
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Vietnam-474 TFW Takhli 9-12/72 Linebckr II;307 SBW U-Tapao 05/73-4
gordonv
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*****
Posts: 5760


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #2 on: July 28, 2018, 09:01:32 AM »

OK, sounds like fun. No power when you try to start. Jump the bike (to where?) and it starts and runs fine. Sounds like battery.

Next day, dead still, swap out with new, suspect fully charged battery, and only a few cranks, and then no go. Sounds like dead battery again.

Is 24 hrs good enough for a new battery on a trickle charger? I think not. You need a charger, then a maintainer for when sitting. I have a CTECK 3300 (?), MC/Car/AGM.

Was your old battery ever tested, or did you try to charge it?

Have you tried jumping it again from a known good battery (don't have the vehicle running, only the battery)?

To give more power to the starter, you could pull the fuse for the headlights, so they don't come on at all (I know the starter button interrupts them).

In the end, I suspect your Dog Bone 55A fuse is blown, and not charging your battery, so check that, there's a spare in the housing. Use a meter or remove it to verify.

As for Mark's suggestion, you could also use a jumper to temporary ground the battery, to verify the ground. Personally, I would add a second ground if it was an issue.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS

Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14769


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #3 on: July 28, 2018, 09:45:42 AM »

97 Standard, 52,000 miles

Took her to work Wednesday afternoon, no problem. Get out to her 9 hours later, turned the key and all looked good. Hit the start button and not only did I not get anything, all the electrical died. Got a jump from a coworker, got home and put her on the tender. All seemed well.

The next morning, I tried to start her up, same deal. I figured it was the battery, so went to my local shop and got a new one.  24 hours on the trickle charger, put it in. She struggled a little, but started up and I figured all was good. 24 hours on the tender.

This morning, I got nothing. Seemed like with the first push of the button, it turned over a little bit but wouldn't catch. Second hit of the button, nothing. I didn't loose all the juice like I did on Wednesday, but she won't turn over at all.

Now she's sitting on the tender while I'm at work and I don't know what to do. Alternator? Starter?  I know that someone in the collective here will have an answer.

TIA

Battery tender is not the same as a full charge. Make sure you use a charger that's doing the job.
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RonW
Member
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Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #4 on: July 28, 2018, 11:07:02 AM »

It sounds like a loose connection in the heavy gauge wire circuit especially with that "all the power went off". Usually either the battery bolts aren't tight enough or the nuts on the starter relay, on those two copper posts, aren't tight enough. The battery wires might be frayed at the crimp from all that bending throughout the years, something like the second pic. They're hidden under the sheathing, and happened to me.





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2000 Valkyrie Tourer
sandy
Member
*****
Posts: 5383


Mesa, AZ.


« Reply #5 on: July 28, 2018, 05:30:14 PM »

Where in Mesa are you? It might be dirty contacts in the start button. Easy clean procedure. Check out ShopTalk on the forum home page.
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Grimmpatrick
Member
*****
Posts: 39

Mesa, AZ


« Reply #6 on: July 28, 2018, 08:25:50 PM »

Thanks for all the input, guys.  On the way home from work, I swung by HF and am now the proud owner of a multimeter.   cooldude

Before I tried anything, I checked the battery.  13, so good to go.  Then I tackled the fuses.  (Pro tip:  Don't have the battery connected when doing this.  Pro tip #2:  Don't use pliers when removing the 55A fuse.  You may bump the connections and get a spark show.  Yup, that was me. Undecided)  All seemed good to go.  So, I reconnected the battery and fired her up.

Started right up!  I don't know why she didn't start this AM, but she seems good to go for now.

Thanks again for all the advise guys.  You're the greatest!

P.S.  I have a new problem.  Check out my next post for more troubles.  I mean fun. Sad
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1997 Standard
h13man
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Posts: 1750


To everything there is an exception.

Indiana NW Central Flatlands


« Reply #7 on: July 29, 2018, 05:54:18 AM »

Battery tender is not the same as a full charge. Make sure you use a charger that's doing the job.
+1. Just found out early this spring when I replaced the battery that trickle charge doesn't work. A full 2 amp charge and all was good.
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