Rear brake pad replacement help

[zackod]

Trying to replace the OEM pads on rear brake.   Easily spun out the two bolts holding the caliper.   Can't get the caliper free from the rotor.    Do you have to drop the back wheel to get the caliper off?

[Pete]

Is the  brake system still under pressure?
Using wood or plastic tap the  caliper left and right to create some space.
If that does not do it then release the pressure by opening the bleed orfice.
If you open the bleed orfice, bleed the brake after you are thru before riding as air may have entered.

[zackod]

Done - i was over-thinking it.   Three bolts on the back-side - all come out.   Allen bolt in front comes out.   then one other bolt in front comes out.  Caliper sides out into two halfs.   Used three C-Clamps to compress the three pistons.  Pop new pads on - re-assemble.   Took an hour.   Next time will be a 20 minute job.   

[Robert]

Next time dont take off the caliper just the bolt that holds the pads and slide them out.

[AdrianR]

Next time dont take off the caliper just the bolt that holds the pads and slide them out.

Bob, have u done it this way already??

[Robert]

Next time dont take off the caliper just the bolt that holds the pads and slide them out.

Bob, have u done it this way already??

Yes, its not hard and its the quickest way to change brakes. The caliper pistons are not hard to push back in either by wedging a screw driver to pry them back or push them back. Then undo the one bolt that holds the pads in. Take the pad out and put the new one in, making sure they are positioned correctly.

They have the loop on one end that the bolt goes through and just fit into a ridge on the other end, kind of rotating them in flat end first. 

Then slide the pin that holds the pads in and your done. Dont forget to grease the threads on the pin or bolt that holds the pads in so next time its not a bugger to get out. Also a small dab of grease on pad contact points does help a bit. And dont forget to put on the rubber cap even though its a pain and put a small dab of grease under it. That keeps moisture out of the head of the bolt that holds the pads and keeps the threads in good condition.

Taking the caliper off is actually the hard way to do things. 

[zackod]

It definitely takes longer Robert to separate the caliper into it's two halfs, but glad I did.   I had a rock wedged behind the middle piston.   Not knowing it was there. when i used my C-Clamps to compressed the pistons with the old pad on, I pulverized the rock into powder.  I never would have been able to compress w/o full disassemble.   Used air compressor and brake cleaner to clean her out good.

I replaced OEM pads with EBC FA261 HH ($45).   Estimated 30% more stopping power now.   Love love um.    Because they are so aggressive, hoping they don't eat into the rotors too much.

For the kill switch issue, I am ordering a new switch today ($70 - will be my 3rd switch).   I just don't see how shooting any type of juice into the housing is any type of long-term fix.  If that worked for you Robert, more power.  Honda need to dial 800-Admit-It, then issue a recall.   I bet the new 2018's don't crap out like ours do.

[Robert]

If at first you don't succeed try try again, NOT in this case 

If you try the spray I think you'll be happy and probably not have to worry about it again. Because the new switches are not made any better than the old ones and will exhibit the same problems. So a different remedy comes out to different results.

Check the caliper for leaking also.

Thanks for the tip on the EBC pads I saw them last night and was wondering about them. I also would not worry to much about the sintered EBC since the OEM Honda pads are sintered also. I have already replaced my brakes and the EBC's were not available so I had to use OEM that were pretty pricey. I am going to order a set of them to have in stock for when I have to replace the pads again.

[bscrive]

Let us know how the EBC brakes work.  When I put them on my 1999 IS years ago, they were ok for a short while and then they sounded like I had a rock grinding my disks.  I took them off and put on OEM pads.  Sound went away.

[ledany]

Robert, you don't have to use a screwdriver to push back the caliber pistons ! Use the old pads instead !
- and you don't forget to clean the pistons, and grease the bolts - someone scolded me once, I'll never forget  -

I'm not crazy about the EBC pads, they are just OK but the Lucas are far better, as good as the Brembos but cheaper.

For the front brakes, the references I have are :

MCB 850 SRQ

For the rear brake, the reference I have is ;

MCB 840 SH

And damn ! I realise my rear pads are 25,000 km old ! (april 2017) 

[Robert]

Ledney thanks for the Lucas tip I will look into it but Im not sure if we can get those here. I am also not sure if I want to use "Lucas lord of darkness" pads 

[saddlesore]

Just a thought... do the brake pad replacement when you change the tire.  Do the rear end service too while your at it.

[Robert]

Just a thought... do the brake pad replacement when you change the tire.  Do the rear end service too while your at it.

You must be thinking about the 1500 not the 1800 a whole different animal when it comes to rear tire changes. 

[bscrive]

Ledney thanks for the Lucas tip I will look into it but Im not sure if we can get those here. I am also not sure if I want to use "Lucas lord of darkness" pads 

Robert, I bought them on eBay for my bike last year.  $56 for the rear and $40 each side for the front. 

I didn't put them on yet as I have only 38,000kms (@25,000 miles) on the OEM pads and they still have quite a bit of pad left front and back.