Electrical issues - system not charging (solved)

[athomas915]

Hey there, picked up a new-to-me '99 Valkyrie Interstate to replace my '84 GL1200 nearly a week ago. Ran like a dream, and rode it home for a duration of about 3 hours.
20 minutes away from home, all kinds of things go out - turn signals, tail lights, speedo and tach, all lights on the front fairing with the exception of the low beam headlights.
This forum has been incredibly helpful, so this is where I'll say thanks.
I replaced the alternator and had the battery checked, in addition to tracing wires and cleaning up connectors, including the 55A fusible link. Battery holds 12.7V when the bike is off, dips to 12.0-12.1V when the bike is at idle, identical to what the alternator output is showing. Revs don't do anything for the battery or alternator, they don't climb above 12.1V.
Anywhere else I need to check? I'm about ready to take it to a shop, but my pride is telling me I haven't checked everything yet.
Thanks for reading this and safe travels.

[Beardo]

I’d take that alternator off and get it tested...off the bike to make sure it’s good on its own, excluding what might me going on on your bike. Preferably where you bought it so they can fix it or give you your money back.

[Keitho]

Check and make sure your exciter wire connector (the small wire from your alternator) which is located behind the relays behind your left side cover, is plugged in all the way and locked by the locking tab. This connector is in a tricky spot as you know and can be difficult to "snap" in to ensure it locks.
You probably know all this stuff but I'm hoping it may help the next reader as well.
I had this problem once.

[gordonv]

If you've applied your volt meter to the alternator correctly, and it's showing only battery voltage while increasing the rpm above 1500, then your alternator is not producing electricity.

How many miles on the bike?

How is your experience working on vehicles? I would suggest removing and cleaning the alt, maybe replace the brushes.

[knockdolian]

What has already been said. Battery voltage will always be higher running than when not. If it isn’t alternator isn’t charging

[john]

before you start pulling parts .. it could be poor ground of negative battery cable at the engine block .. corrosion is an insulator .. it will not allow charging system to function properly .. simple things first


 

[Alberta Patriot]

Hey there, picked up a new-to-me '99 Valkyrie Interstate to replace my '84 GL1200 nearly a week ago. Ran like a dream, and rode it home for a duration of about 3 hours.
20 minutes away from home, all kinds of things go out - turn signals, tail lights, speedo and tach, all lights on the front fairing with the exception of the low beam headlights.
This forum has been incredibly helpful, so this is where I'll say thanks.
I replaced the alternator and had the battery checked, in addition to tracing wires and cleaning up connectors, including the 55A fusible link. Battery holds 12.7V when the bike is off, dips to 12.0-12.1V when the bike is at idle, identical to what the alternator output is showing. Revs don't do anything for the battery or alternator, they don't climb above 12.1V.
Anywhere else I need to check? I'm about ready to take it to a shop, but my pride is telling me I haven't checked everything yet.
Thanks for reading this and safe travels.

Go to the General Board and look for my recent thread "Stranded"...That would be my latest episode with the charging system of my Interstate. Last year(August) my alternator went out(fried stator windings) I looked at maybe buying an after market unit until I started reading the host of negative comments on these cheap crap replacements...I ended up having mine rebuilt instead, but a week ago Iwas stranded when my charging system failed again!!  I took the alternator back to the shop that rebuilt it...got a call back a couple days later...the alternator checked out fine...so...I am waiting for an O-Ring to arrive at the Honda dealership so I can re-install the unit making sure all related connections are cleaned and sanded to be sure they are trouble free...the O-Ring arrives Tuesday...stay tuned!

[flash2002]

From what Keitho was saying, make sure you have 12volts  on that wire or it wont charge.

[athomas915]

Big thanks to everyone who replied. Although I haven't responded quickly because of work, I have been lurking and learning.

107k miles on the bike, and this is the third alternator on the bike in its lifetime (original Hitachi, then Lactical, now another Hitachi).

I was sent alternator #2 because alternator #1 was labeled in "working condition", which it was not. I installed alternator #2 on the bike this morning, and the battery is charging and working its way up to a normal range. It was down to 12.4V (before cranking, 13.5V at idle) because of all the testing and starting I've done, but after a pretty quick ride, it's back up to where it needs to be.

That opens up the initial can of worms - no tach, speedo, turn signals, horn, or tail lights. Radio works. I have been studying the wiring diagram on this bike and I am more and more perplexed the longer I study. The only consistency to this issue, I observe, is the tie to the front fairing controls.

What I have done - traced wires for 6+ hours and cleaned up the loose ends, disconnected and cleaned the connectors, and checked the 55A fusible link, as previously stated. Fuses (both boxes) have been checked, and the starter switch has been cleaned up.

What I plan on doing today - checking the negative battery cable at the engine block, and cleaning up connections. I'd rather put in the time now than when I'm 6+ hours away and stranded.

[gordonv]

20 minutes away from home, all kinds of things go out - turn signals, tail lights, speedo and tach, all lights on the front fairing with the exception of the low beam headlights.

That opens up the initial can of worms - no tach, speedo, turn signals, horn, or tail lights. Radio works. I have been studying the wiring diagram on this bike and I am more and more perplexed the longer I study. The only consistency to this issue, I observe, is the tie to the front fairing controls.

Short answer, I'm thinking since its a new to you bike, about the main wire harness connector.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,25289.0.html

Long answer, look over the eletrical diagrams and see which circuites are down.
http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/rpage10i.html

Sounds like you're doing the right things, but will just take time to figure out.

[athomas915]

Thanks, gordonv. The bike is now up and running again, with all the lights this time.

Turns out, it was a 15A fuse I skimmed past that was broken. I was staring at the circuit diagrams for the bike until I decided to give the fuse box another shot. I was so angry that such a small issue caused such large problems, but I also have a rideable bike, so I guess that's life. Live and learn.

Thanks again to everyone who contributed and safe riding.

[carolinarider09]

Glad you got it fixed.

Not exactly the same but on my first trip out west with some friends, one of the bikes, a Harley had a cruise control failure.  Cruise would not engage.  My friend did some things, I don't remember what maybe moved some fuses around but could not find the issue.  Don't know if we stopped at a Harley shop or not.

On the way back, In Sioux Falls, SD I asked him if he had checked all the fuses.  He said he had.  I said ok, lets re-check them with a meter.  I had a very small digital meter in my top case (and I can't say why I did not suggest it before) I broke it out and tested the fuses with the meter.  Found one that was blown and when it was replaced, everything worked

I felt a little guilty not sort of forcing him to use the meter.  So, I carry the meter on ever trip