Vacum Hose Plug ??

[TexasDragon]

Hello from Texas !!

I was working on another project on my 99 Interstate and found this.




On the right side, the front and rear vacum tubes look like this. The end looks like a broken hose but does not look like the hose that is attached to the intake. Is this what a plug would look like ? Seems odd that it would look broken off at the end.


I just want to make sure before I remove the tank and airbox to fix.


The only problem I'm having is the bike idles perfectly at start up, but once I've been riding for a while it jumps up to 2500. I can rev it up at a stop light and will go back down slowly but not unless I do this. Either way its not normal. I hope I just needed a idle adjustment, but now with hose looking like this, I thought it might be part of my problem.


I'm wondering if my po did the de-smog (half of it at least-stelth version) or if this is really a vacum hose that has gotten old and broke away? If he had done a full de-smog, the air line tubes wouls have been taken off, right ?

[The emperor has no clothes]

No, it's not normal. I'm not sure why it's like that though. Has the bike already been desmoged ?

[TexasDragon]

No, it's not normal. I'm not sure why it's like that though. Has the bike already been desmoged ?

That's what I thought at first but if you look at the second picture, the air lines are still there and those are part of the list of parts that get removed during the de-smog.


I guess my next question is, is this what the vacuum hose looks like and broke off. Is that the nipple ?

[The emperor has no clothes]

Some guys do a desmog leaving the chrome tubes in place. In your pic it looks like there is a metal bracket of some sort attached to the hose ?

[TexasDragon]

Some guys do a desmog leaving the chrome tubes in place. In your pic it looks like there is a metal bracket of some sort attached to the hose ?

You're talking about the first pic right ? Yea, that's what started all of this confusion. If that was just a vacuum line, it wouldn't have that black nipple or plug or whatever it is by my finger. That is why I thought it was de-smogged. Then I saw that not all of the parts that are normally taken off when doing the de-smog were taken off.

Not all of those vacuum hoses go straight to the carb, right ? They would go to part of the smog system ?

[Roidfingers]

The easy desmog is to cap all your intake nipples , remove the read valves and plug the top of the chrome tubes. Leaving the tubes on the bike.  Oh except number 6 nipple which is a vacuum for the petcock if your have an OEM one. If you have a pingel petcock, then all intake nipples would be capped. I would redo all of them, which can be done with out pulling tank and airbox.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Some guys do a desmog leaving the chrome tubes in place. In your pic it looks like there is a metal bracket of some sort attached to the hose ?

You're talking about the first pic right ? Yea, that's what started all of this confusion. If that was just a vacuum line, it wouldn't have that black nipple or plug or whatever it is by my finger. That is why I thought it was de-smogged. Then I saw that not all of the parts that are normally taken off when doing the de-smog were taken off.

Not all of those vacuum hoses go straight to the carb, right ? They would go to part of the smog system ?

There are a few ways guys have done it. I prefer to remove all the stuff. I don’t see myself ever wanting it back on. Have you seen this in shoptalk ?

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/desmog.htm

[TexasDragon]

What is the cylinder order ? I just went and looked further and the hoses from the intake on my left front and right front and rear have been plugged.

[Hook#3287]

What is the cylinder order ? I just went and looked further and the hoses from the intake on my left front and right front and rear have been plugged.

Plug wires should have the numbers on them.

[Hook#3287]

There are a few ways guys have done it. I prefer to remove all the stuff. I don’t see myself ever wanting it back on.

I've done the easy way on all of the "DeSmogs" I've done.

#1  I'm inherently lazy
#2  I have a inability to REMOVE chrome.
#3  I can actually see my nanny state requiring all vehicles be original to acquire an inspection sticker.

[TexasDragon]

Well, all I can confirm now is that the left front and right front and rear intakes have been plugged.

I cant tell if it was done for some variation of the de-smog or if they just got dry and brittle and the PO just plugged them and went on. It seems to run fine. I noticed this as I was looking for the idle adjustment. It idles fine at first start and then after riding for a while it will idle over 2000rpm at a stop light. I can rev it up and it will go back to normal. I think this is a throttle issue but a vacuum problem could have some part also.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Well, all I can confirm now is that the left front and right front and rear intakes have been plugged.

I cant tell if it was done for some variation of the de-smog or if they just got dry and brittle and the PO just plugged them and went on. It seems to run fine. I noticed this as I was looking for the idle adjustment. It idles fine at first start and then after riding for a while it will idle over 2000rpm at a stop light. I can rev it up and it will go back to normal. I think this is a throttle issue but a vacuum problem could have some part also.

I think I would begin with all new vacuum plugs.

[TexasDragon]

Well, all I can confirm now is that the left front and right front and rear intakes have been plugged.

I cant tell if it was done for some variation of the de-smog or if they just got dry and brittle and the PO just plugged them and went on. It seems to run fine. I noticed this as I was looking for the idle adjustment. It idles fine at first start and then after riding for a while it will idle over 2000rpm at a stop light. I can rev it up and it will go back to normal. I think this is a throttle issue but a vacuum problem could have some part also.

I think I would begin with all new vacuum plugs.

Why replace the plugs that are in there now ? I'm trying to figure out if I need to replace the vacuume lines or not ? If these 3 cylinders are supposed to be plugged because of that (de-smog), I just need to know if these are the right 3 that should be plugged.

[gordonv]

No, it's not an easy desmog, or desmog of any kind. Seems to be pure laziness. Vacuum lines broke and they got plugged.

Either fix it, replace all the vacuum lines, since you know they're shot. Or desmog it properly, which ever method you wish.

Then see how your idle issue is.

[John Schmidt]

Cylinder numbering:
rt. side, front to rear....1, 3, 5.
lt. side, front to rear....2, 4, 6.

In the desmogs I've done, I remove all the crap on top of the motor and replace the bolts with some loktite. Remove the hose and cap off(plug) the vacuum nipples on the back side of all but #6 carb(that's for the petcock). The chrome tubes I just cut them off in front of the spot where they plug into the top of the head. Then mix some JB Weld Quick and fill the ends where you cut it off. I usually will fill it once, let it harden a bit then another layer for good measure. The first layer I often will mix with a tiny bit of cotton or shred of a paper towel, reason being is it's liquid and if not mixed like that will settle on the bottom and not completely fill/block the chrome tube. Do it right the first time so you don't have to make time to go back and do it again. Sounds like the PO didn't.

[Lyle Laun]

Yes, the 3 that are plugged already is how mother honda did it from the factory. It doesn't indicate a poor boy desmog has been done. Your idle symptoms indicate a failed vac line.

Regards
Lyle

[The emperor has no clothes]

Well, all I can confirm now is that the left front and right front and rear intakes have been plugged.

I cant tell if it was done for some variation of the de-smog or if they just got dry and brittle and the PO just plugged them and went on. It seems to run fine. I noticed this as I was looking for the idle adjustment. It idles fine at first start and then after riding for a while it will idle over 2000rpm at a stop light. I can rev it up and it will go back to normal. I think this is a throttle issue but a vacuum problem could have some part also.

I think I would begin with all new vacuum plugs.

Why replace the plugs that are in there now ? I'm trying to figure out if I need to replace the vacuume lines or not ? If these 3 cylinders are supposed to be plugged because of that (de-smog), I just need to know if these are the right 3 that should be plugged.

What I meant was to replace the vacuum lines and caps.

[RonW]

Below, the stock runners with tubes & stock caps. Look between the intake runners with a flash light to see if the *smog reed valves* are still there on the middle part of the engine. Disconnect the middle plug boot if it obstructs the view. Might even take a photo with a flash.

[98valk]

looks like redeye plug kit

https://redeye.ecrater.com/p/3301919/three-vacuum-caps-honda-valkyrie#

[Ricky-D]

Well, all I can confirm now is that the left front and right front and rear intakes have been plugged.

I cant tell if it was done for some variation of the de-smog or if they just got dry and brittle and the PO just plugged them and went on. It seems to run fine. I noticed this as I was looking for the idle adjustment. It idles fine at first start and then after riding for a while it will idle over 2000rpm at a stop light. I can rev it up and it will go back to normal. I think this is a throttle issue but a vacuum problem could have some part also.

I would suggest you do two things. First of all, remove the chrome covers that cover the linkage and generously spray all the linkage with a lubricant while working the throttle continuously. This ought to insure you have no problem with any kind of stickiness with the linkage.
Secondly then would be to perform a carburetor synchronization.
If everything performed properly at an earlier time and nothing has been altered, these two steps should get you back to a good running condition.

***

[RonW]

Anybody ever use a bolt to plug the hole for the nipple on the intake runners? Instead of covering up the un-used nipples.

[Hook#3287]

Anybody ever use a bolt to plug the hole for the nipple on the intake runners? Instead of covering up the un-used nipples.

No, but don't see why you couldn't.  It would make syncing the carbs more work.  If you could find bolts that closed like a hydraulic bleeder, that would be cool.

[98valk]

Anybody ever use a bolt to plug the hole for the nipple on the intake runners? Instead of covering up the un-used nipples.

it's been done. search feature, person gave sizes.

[RonW]

Oh, never thought about having to do a sync. It follows as surely as the rear wheel follows the front wheel, how would you remember where you stored the nipples after you remove them when you need them.

[9Ball]

For reference, Intakes 1, 2 & 5 should have the plugs.  Intakes 3 & 4 have the pair valve tubing, and intake 6 is used for the vacuum petcock.

Your plugs on the intakes look like they are from redeyetech, but it’s hard for me to tell from the picture.  They could also be Honda OEM.  Redeyetech has had at least 5 different variations over the years in the search to perfect the plugs, and his latest version is the best.

The OEM plugs will crack over time and with heat exposure and need to be replaced.  The plugs you have are not part of any desmog attempt.  The redeyetech plugs are of a better material than rubber and will last a lot longer.  When the plugs deteriorate you will notice an intake leak.  Don’t try to use plain rubber plugs from the auto parts store as they don’t hold up very well.  If you get popping on deceleration, that can be enough to blow a plug off the nipple if it isn’t clipped securely.  I had this happen once with Cobra pipes and the air leakage from the missing plug made a lot of noise.

If you need to see the Honda reference, look at parts #24 and #6 in the diagram.  This shows the plugs and clip shown in your first picture.

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1999-honda-valkyrie-gl1500c/o/m151390#sch613698

If your bike was desmogged you wouldn’t have pair valve tubing and the chromed tubing might have been removed depending on the full desmog...the lazy version leaves the chrome tubing in place.

You can replace the vacuum intake nipples with bolts, but save the nipples because you will need them for doing a carb synch.  You shouldn’t have to do carb synch very often so plugging them is an option.  I just use the redeyetech plugs.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Your plugs on the intakes look like they are from redeyetech, but it’s hard for me to tell from the picture.  They could also be Honda OEM.  Redeyetech has had at least 5 different variations over the years in the search to perfect the plugs, and his latest version is the best.

The OEM plugs will crack over time and with heat exposure and need to be replaced.  The plugs you have are not part of any desmog attempt.  The redeyetech plugs are of a better material than rubber and will last a lot longer.  When the plugs deteriorate you will notice an intake leak.  Don’t try to use plain rubber plugs from the auto parts store as they don’t hold up very well.

Intakes 1, 2 & 5 have the plugs.  Intakes 3 & 4 have the pair valve tubing, and intake 6 is used for the vacuum petcock.  See parts #24 and #6 in the diagram.

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1999-honda-valkyrie-gl1500c/o/m151390#sch613698

If your bike was desmogged you wouldn’t have pair valve tubing and the chromed tubing might have been removed depending on the full desmog...the lazy version leaves the chrome tubing in place.

You can replace the vacuum intake nipples with bolts, but save the nipples because you will need them for doing a carb synch.  You shouldn’t have to do carb synch very often so plugging them is an option.  I just use the redeyetech plugs.

I think BonS's vacuum plugs are even better. But, I don't know if he's still in stock.