Electrical garage trolls at it again!

[pais]

   Went out Sunday(yesterday) evening and jumped on the Valk. She didn't even groan or try to push me off. No but, seriously 
   The bike had been sitting for a week and hadn't touched her. I had forgotten to hook up the tender and upon start up it did not sound quite right but, it started.      Rode the mile and a half to Autozone. In 10 mins I was back on her and nothing 
   Jumped her w/the micro charger(what a great purchase, almost forgot I had it). She roared to life and down the road I went  Decided to take a quick spin around town  Half a mile down the road, needed to use the horn. Hit the button, nothing, radio cut out and engine bogged for a split second  Did a quick U-turn and to the ranch I went.
   Plugged the tender in and got a green light(charged?). Expecting the red light.
   I always chuckle when I see a post here from Britman. His most recent one is "The electrical dunce is here again", lol. IF he is a dunce then I must find a Thesaurus because I take it to a new level when it comes to electrical!
   Looking for some help here, please.

[Jess from VA]

I think if a battery is shot and the Battery Tender cannot bring it back (it stops trying), and it gives you a green (not a red).  That happened to me, once.

You can try a regular charger (I'd use a 2amp low setting), but a new battery is probably in order.  (always use a timer, don't set it and forget and have a fire)

As usual, a careful check of all connections for tightness and corrosion is always in order too.

I'm also a member of the auto electric and me go together like a fish needs a bicycle club.

[Gryphon Rider]

There's something wrong in your charging system.  If it were merely a weak battery, the horn incident wouldn't have happened.  It might be a bad connection within the charging/battery circuit, which can be fixed by disconnecting, cleaning, and reconnecting the connections, but I'm thinking alternator.

Once you've cleaned and tightened your battery and engine ground connections, check battery voltage when off and when the engine is running.  If the voltage doesn't increase when running, your charging system has a problem, likely your alternator.

[WintrSol]

The tender showing green argues for a failed battery (high internal resistance), or a bad connection(s). The horn shutting things down says the same. But, if it is a failed battery, that indicates the charging system is going out. Take the battery to get it tested - if it tests OK, then open and clean all the major connections, at the battery and at the frame ground. If it is failes, when the new battery is installed, verify the charging system, per GR. Also, if the Voltage rises too high, that will cause battery damage, the kind that increases the internal resistance of the battery.

[..]

   Went out Sunday(yesterday) evening and jumped on the Valk. She didn't even groan or try to push me off. No but, seriously 
   The bike had been sitting for a week and hadn't touched her. I had forgotten to hook up the tender and upon start up it did not sound quite right but, it started.      Rode the mile and a half to Autozone. In 10 mins I was back on her and nothing 
   Jumped her w/the micro charger(what a great purchase, almost forgot I had it). She roared to life and down the road I went  Decided to take a quick spin around town  Half a mile down the road, needed to use the horn. Hit the button, nothing, radio cut out and engine bogged for a split second  Did a quick U-turn and to the ranch I went.
   Plugged the tender in and got a green light(charged?). Expecting the red light.
   I always chuckle when I see a post here from Britman. His most recent one is "The electrical dunce is here again", lol. IF he is a dunce then I must find a Thesaurus because I take it to a new level when it comes to electrical!
   Looking for some help here, please.

Hey! I resemble that remark 

[gordonv]

If your battery doesn't have enough power to start your bike, it's an issue. What is the issue, there are 2. Not charging (alternator) while running, or won't accept power (battery dead).

If you jump start your bike, and it runs after the removal of the "good battery", you have enough juice to power what needs it. If over time you start loosing electrical items (horn/radio) then your alternator is NOT powering your needs.

The battery is needed for starting the bike. After starting, it's there to be charged for the next start up. You can remove the battery while the engine is running, and your vehicle should be fine. If your demand for power is too large for your alternator, then it will draw extra power from your battery (amps/heated gear/extra lights). In the case of the Valk, are alts are rated at 540W (?), and that is a lot and more than for the OEM bike's need.

You might have a bad battery, but for sure you have a charging issue. There is not a charge getting to the battery, and from the battery to the rest of the bike.

You have 2 choices, and unfortunately most people seem to that the first. 1) Buy a new battery, charge it properly, install and enjoy your ride (till it happens again). 2) Test you charging system. Test the V on the battery. Start the bike up, and check the battery again. Same V, then check the voltage at the alternator. If the same V as at battery, alternator needs fixing. If V is higher than battery (at 1500 rpm), then something is stopping the power from getting to the battery, and your bike has been running off a battery till there isn't enough power left to run it.

You HAVE TO CHECK IT with a volt meter, not just change out the battery.

[Gryphon Rider]

If your batter doesn't have enough power to start your bike, it's an issue. What is the issue, there are 2. Not charging (alternator) while running, or won't accept power (battery dead).

If you jump start your bike, and it runs after the removal of the "good battery", you have enough juice to power what needs it. If over time you start loosing electrical items (horn/radio) then your alternator is NOT powering your needs.

The battery is needed for starting the bike. After starting, it's there to be charged for the next start up. You can remove the battery while the engine is running, and your vehicle should be fine. If your demand for power is too large for your alternator, then it will draw extra power from your battery (amps/heated gear/extra lights). In the case of the Valk, are alts are rated at 540W (?), and that is a lot and more than for the OEM bike's need.

You might have a bad battery, but for sure you have a charging issue. There is not a charge getting to the battery, and from the battery to the rest of the bike.

You have 2 choices, and unfortunately most people seem to that the first. 1) Buy a new battery, charge it properly, install and enjoy your ride (till it happens again). 2) Test you charging system. Test the V on the battery. Start the bike up, and check the battery again. Same V, then check the voltage at the alternator. If the same V as at battery, alternator needs fixing. If V is higher than battery (at 1500 rpm), then something is stopping the power from getting to the battery, and your bike has been running off a battery till there isn't enough power left to run it.

You HAVE TO CHECK IT with a volt meter, not just change out the battery.

I would not recommend running a vehicle without a battery.  Electronics are sensitive to voltage spikes, and the battery serves to dampen voltage and current fluctuations from the alternator.  Even using a weak battery is better for the electronics than no battery.

[pais]

    Well, pulled the seat and took a look Wednesday night. 
     Put the volt meter on the battery and it showed 1 volt. Mind you, that was after having the tender on it since Sunday evening. Guess that's why they call it a tender/maintainer! 
     Thursday morning I put a 2 amp charger on it and went to work. Came home last night and nothing had changed. Even went out and checked my truck battery, to make sure free, HF volt meter was actually functioning. I was able to get good reads on the battery.
     Pulled battery and called the Interstate battery guy that serves our maintenance shop. He will drop one by today and I shall go from there.
     Once I gave some thought to it. I've had the Valk since Sept. 2013. Same battery in the bike since and I have no idea when PO put said battery in.
     Again, I'll let use guys know what happens after I get new battery in and get a reading while bike is running.
     

[Gryphon Rider]

Be aware that running with a weak or damaged battery can overload the alternator, causing premature failure of the alternator and/or its electronics.  When you get the new battery, be sure to fully charge it with a 1.4A-2A charger before installing it in the bike.  Next, measure the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine off, which for a new battery should be 12.9V-13.2V.  Finally, measure with the engine running at 1500RPM, when the voltage should definitely increase, normally to 13.8V-14.3V if the charging system is doing its job.

[MarkT]

If your batter doesn't have enough power to start your bike, it's an issue. What is the issue, there are 2. Not charging (alternator) while running, or won't accept power (battery dead).

If you jump start your bike, and it runs after the removal of the "good battery", you have enough juice to power what needs it. If over time you start loosing electrical items (horn/radio) then your alternator is NOT powering your needs.

The battery is needed for starting the bike. After starting, it's there to be charged for the next start up. You can remove the battery while the engine is running, and your vehicle should be fine. If your demand for power is too large for your alternator, then it will draw extra power from your battery (amps/heated gear/extra lights). In the case of the Valk, are alts are rated at 540W (?), and that is a lot and more than for the OEM bike's need.

You might have a bad battery, but for sure you have a charging issue. There is not a charge getting to the battery, and from the battery to the rest of the bike.

You have 2 choices, and unfortunately most people seem to that the first. 1) Buy a new battery, charge it properly, install and enjoy your ride (till it happens again). 2) Test you charging system. Test the V on the battery. Start the bike up, and check the battery again. Same V, then check the voltage at the alternator. If the same V as at battery, alternator needs fixing. If V is higher than battery (at 1500 rpm), then something is stopping the power from getting to the battery, and your bike has been running off a battery till there isn't enough power left to run it.

You HAVE TO CHECK IT with a volt meter, not just change out the battery.

I would not recommend running a vehicle without a battery.  Electronics are sensitive to voltage spikes, and the battery serves to dampen voltage and current fluctuations from the alternator.  Even using a weak battery is better for the electronics than no battery.

  +1,000  First place to look for trouble is the connections to battery / alt.  Esp the battery ground - move it to a steel frame bolt, off the aluminum block. Left side driver's footpeg bracket mount is a great place,  You need to hog out the connector with a Dremel, that's all.  Also check the connections at the dogbone.  Might find it loose. Add blue loctite.  I added electrical connection compound and sealed the whole thing with Liquid Tape.

[pais]

  Well, finally this is what I have to this point.
   Installed new battery this morning.
   12.8 volts in off position.
   12.6 volts with key turned on.
   Damn it, forgot to check voltage during start up!
   14.3 volts at 1500 and 2500RPM's
    Bike started right up. Don't remember the last time the bike started so quick. When I took the bike out of storage back in April it started hard. Tried to start as I took my thumb off the starter button. Throughout the season the bike started after turning several times but, it started. I had actually ordered a Yuasa from Amazon before going to Inzane but it was damaged upon arrival and just used (gambled with) what I had.
    So I guess my battery was shot? When I took it out of bike and tried to charge with my 2 amp charger, it did not take a charge. When I tested it I was getting 1 volt. I did not try to jump again. Just waited on new battery and the test results are what I listed above.
   
    How do I check voltage @ the alternator? I am for sure electrically challenged.

[Harryc]

14.3 volts at 1500 and 2500RPM's
How do I check voltage @ the alternator? I am for sure electrically challenged.

You don't have to. The 14.3vDC at 2500rpms says the alternator is healthy. You are good to go. Consider installing a volt meter on the bike for peace of mind. That's what I did ...

[MarkT]

I have a Passport Escort.  You can set it to display voltage and it's pretty accurate.

"Honestly occifer, I don't speed, I'm just monitoring the voltage - have electrical issues."

That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

[gordonv]

14.3 volts at 1500 and 2500RPM's
How do I check voltage @ the alternator? I am for sure electrically challenged.

You don't have to. The 14.3vDC at 2500rpms says the alternator is healthy. You are good to go. Consider installing a volt meter on the bike for peace of mind. That's what I did ...

What you are looking for is a voltage higher than just the battery. This then shows power is getting to the battery. How much power is the issue. 13.9+ is showing good strong charging from the alternator.

If you did not get the increase while running, then you would check the alternator. You place the positive lead on the bolt on the end of the alternator.

[pais]

    As usuall, thank you for all the help!