Weird clinking noise

[Savago]

Dear friends

I noticed this week that my I/S@99 (with 82K miles) is making a clinking noise while riding around 25 to 30mph.

It is not loud but it is definitely there. It will happen either with clutch engaged or disengaged as also on neutral with the bike moving.

Any usual suspects? I thought maybe u-joint or maybe wheel bearings? I pray to Jesus that is not the final drive again...

I have the impression that the noise coming from the rear wheel area...

Further info:
a) It has a new OEM alternator  (Hitachi made in Japan)
b) I'm running Rotella T4 oil on it.
c) Final drive has Mobil 1 synthetic oil.
d) Final drive was replaced last year (and lubed with Honda Moly).

Best regards

Savago

[Tfrank59]

I imagine you've checked that it's not just a rock or nail in the tire?  I've had that happen more than I'd like to admit.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Can you jack it up and spin the tire in neutral ? I wouldn't think ujoint or rear differential. Wheel bearings maybe. Most likely a rock or something like tfrank said.

[Jess from VA]

Brakes are notorious for weird noises.  Esp those spring steel clips on ours.

On the other hand, I spent several days chasing down a noise that turned out to be a small rock in the tire tread. But it didn't clink, it ticked.  

[Savago]

All good feedback.

I will put the bike in a jack and see if there is anything stuck in the rear tire.

Concerning the brakes: pressing the foot pedal to engage the rear brake won't change the clinking sound.

[SirLancelot]

Does the rhythm of the clink change with road speed?

[Ricky-D]

All good feedback.

I will put the bike in a jack and see if there is anything stuck in the rear tire.

Concerning the brakes: pressing the foot pedal to engage the rear brake won't change the clinking sound.

Try the front brakes.

***

[Dusty]

All good feedback.

I will put the bike in a jack and see if there is anything stuck in the rear tire.

Concerning the brakes: pressing the foot pedal to engage the rear brake won't change the clinking sound.

Try the front brakes.

***

I'll second this suggestion . Mine was front pads rattling around. I bit of front brake pressure while riding made it go away.

Dusty

[Savago]

Does the rhythm of the clink change with road speed?

Yep, it does.

It starts around 20mph and goes away past 30mph.

[Tfrank59]

Does it go away at 30 or just become inaudible?  If the noise actually stops at a certain speed, it might indeed be wheel bearings.  You might not be able to fully diagnose in that case without disassembly, though with the wheel(s) off the ground you should detect something--some wheel slop, feels rough on rotation, something just not right  If you can rule out not something stuck in the tire, brakes not being the cause, and the wheel bearings seem okay, then it's time to look at the final drive, which is of course NOT what you want to hear but it would be the likely culprit and would require full disassembly  (NOTE: if the clicking corresponds to wheel rotation (1:1), then it wouldn't perhaps be the drive shaft, as its rotation is many times more frequent than the wheel's)

[greggh]

I had a similar problem
Was making a Tin like noise at low speeds and moderately  low speeds.
The culprit was a a header pipe weld had broke where the headers pipe feeds into the exhaust canister.
Just my 2 cents

[Valker]

Is it like this one? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wn7gJc4QasM
This was something broken loose in my exhaust pipes. I had them glass packed to stop it.

[Hook#3287]

Riding down the road, when you pull in the clutch, does the sound change?

If not, when you apply the brakes, with the clutch lever in, does it change?

If not, when you release clutch lever, does it change?

If not, when you gas it full, does it change?

If not, I'd look at wheel bearings next, by elevating either both or one wheel at a time, to inspect movement.

I think, even if it's in the drive train, when you apply full power, the noise would change some.

But, maybe not.

Good luck.

[greggh]

Is it like this one? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wn7gJc4QasM
This was something broken loose in my exhaust pipes. I had them glass packed to stop it.

No mine was not that loud or that constant
The head pipe weld was broken

[Chrisj CMA]

Dear friends

I noticed this week that my I/S@99 (with 82K miles) is making a clinking noise while riding around 25 to 30mph.

It is not loud but it is definitely there. It will happen either with clutch engaged or disengaged as also on neutral with the bike moving.

Any usual suspects? I thought maybe u-joint or maybe wheel bearings? I pray to Jesus that is not the final drive again...

I have the impression that the noise coming from the rear wheel area...

Further info:
a) It has a new OEM alternator  (Hitachi made in Japan)
b) I'm running Rotella T4 oil on it.
c) Final drive has Mobil 1 synthetic oil.
d) Final drive was replaced last year (and lubed with Honda Moly).

Best regards

Savago

My guess is left rear wheel bearing.  when you get the back end up in the air grab the rear wheel at the bottom and try to move it side to side.  Any movement will be minuscule (more like a tic sound) but its the tell tale sign of a bad wheel bearing.

[Savago]

Ok, ordered a low profile motorcycle jack (1100lbs, hope it can lift an I/S):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009W997X6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let's see this weekend what I can find out.
 

[Tfrank59]

I just went down to Harbor Freight and bought the one that's rated for 1500 pounds. I think it was a hundred bucks. I've been using that for about 4 years for both of my motorcycles and it works great. But for my Valkyrie I had to build the adapter that's in the shop talk page where all the dimensions and everything are provided

[sandy]

Ok, ordered a low profile motorcycle jack (1100lbs, hope it can lift an I/S):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009W997X6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let's see this weekend what I can find out.
 

That lift you ordered isn't going to be stable. It's meant for a tablelift where the front wheel is clamped down. You need to cancel that order and get a motorcycle jack.

[Savago]

@Sandy: Good point!
 

I have the bike in a wheel chock with jacks in the engine crash bars, do you think that wouldn't hold the bike in place while using the lift?

A few photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/UKBbd6Jsc7D6Mumb8

[The emperor has no clothes]

@Sandy: Good point!
 

I have the bike in a wheel chock with jacks in the engine crash bars, do you think that wouldn't hold the bike in place while using the lift?

A few photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/UKBbd6Jsc7D6Mumb8

Savago, looking at your pics, it probably will work with chock setup. But, I'm with Sandy. Cancel your order and get the proper Jack. You can get them at Sears or Harborfreight for $89, sometimes on sale for less. It will be more stable, and you will be able to lift the whole bike. Working on the front end if you need to in the future.

[Jess from VA]

I agree.  That jack will lift the back with the front secured in chock and jack stand to guards, but you can get a good bike jack that will do it all for close to the price of the one you showed us.

I got some Chinese deal (probably) from Pep Boys (auto parts) and been using it for 15 years on two interstates (for like $50).  You do need to build a little wood adapter (or buy a metal one) to use with the bike jack though.  My wood one has also lasted 15 years and many uses.

This assumes you have a place to keep a full size motorcycle jack, they're pretty heavy and I wouldn't want to have to carry it around or up into an apartment.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lbs-capacity-atvmotorcycle-lift-60536.html

This is the exact one I got a Pep Boys years ago.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Big-Red-1-500-lb-Motorcycle-Jack-T66751X/100594527

https://www.sears.com/craftsman-motorcycle-atv-jack/p-00950190000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

[kodiakfisher]

I will offer up a few suggestions as I have chased them both and keep in mind my hearing isn't the best anymore.

First culprit would be to tighten the exhaust header nuts ONLY 7ft lbs of torque or just barely snug. They come loose and at lower speeds you can hear the exhaust tink/ping out.

The other thing that happens as fall approaches and humidity in the air increases is condensation inside our exhausts and this also provides a nice tink/ping sound as the bike warms up and the steam goes out one of the holes on the bottom of the exhaust about where the passenger foot pegs are.

Kodiakfisher