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Author Topic: Handlebar Risers - Opinions?  (Read 2687 times)
RealAG
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Posts: 14

Roseville, Michigan


« on: September 13, 2018, 03:17:42 PM »

Thinking about swapping my stock risers on a 97 Standard for these:

Biker's Choice Chrome Deuce Style Pullback Risers 56033-00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GZKTD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cxUMBb9PXC1QB

I’m a 5’9 shrimp and just got a new Corbin seat that sits me too far back for comfort. Id like the handlebars to sit about 1-2 inches higher and another 1-2 inches towards me. Does anyone have any experience with these risers? Like them? Hate them? Other suggestions?

Thanks!
-AG
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mello dude
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Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole

Dayton Ohio


« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2018, 03:28:30 PM »

Risers are something I havent considered for my project, let me know how it goes if you get them.
btw, I cant find mine, I may be up to buy your stockers.

thx
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« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2018, 03:59:21 PM »

Thinking about swapping my stock risers on a 97 Standard for these:

Biker's Choice Chrome Deuce Style Pullback Risers 56033-00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GZKTD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cxUMBb9PXC1QB

I’m a 5’9 shrimp and just got a new Corbin seat that sits me too far back for comfort. Id like the handlebars to sit about 1-2 inches higher and another 1-2 inches towards me. Does anyone have any experience with these risers? Like them? Hate them? Other suggestions?

Thanks!
-AG
I have no experience with these risers. And I could not determine from the ad where they are made. At that price I suspect China, Taiwan, etc. There have been incidents of risers breaking and leaving the rider without control of the bike. I would investigate it further before making the purchase.
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Tfrank59
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'98 Tourer

Western Washington


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« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2018, 06:06:01 PM »

One thing that keeps me from considering risers or higher bars is the longer cables and lines it requires -- for me too much cost and hassle.
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-Tom

Keep the rubber side down.  USMC '78-'84
'98 Valkyrie, ‘02 VTX 1800, '96 Royal Star, '06 Drifter, '09 Bonneville, '10 KTM 530, '04 XR 650, '76 Bultaco, '81 CR 450, '78 GS 750...
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« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2018, 07:09:19 PM »

One thing that keeps me from considering risers or higher bars is the longer cables and lines it requires -- for me too much cost and hassle.
You can reroute cables up to I think a 4" riser and be fine. I'm 5'10", and the risers make long distance riding much better.
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98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2018, 07:18:10 PM »

I brought deuce riser knockoffs from JP cycles yrs ago. still look great. sometimes u can find actual HD deuce risers on ebay cheap. oem throttle cables are tight and really should be replaced on a std or switch to I/S throttle and cables, then custom cables are not needed.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

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Redline +
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Northwest Washington


« Reply #6 on: September 13, 2018, 09:35:28 PM »

Harley Davidson Deuce risers are a good option for the Valkyrie. I can't speak for the aftermarket knock-offs, I choose to use genuine HD risers on my 2002 Standard.

The HD risers are not a direct bolt-on, Harley uses a counterbore in the top clamp and the risers have a step in the base that locates in this counterbore. This step needs to be removed to mount on a Valkyrie. The bolt holes in the top clamp also need to be enlarged slightly. With some fiddling, the wiring length is OK, hose lengths are OK, I did install longer throttle cables and an Interstate housing for a cleaner install.

The Deuce risers made a big difference for me, bringing the bars back so I'm not reaching for them, reducing shoulder and back fatigue.



Redline Cool
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Colin
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My old job

Orba, Spain


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« Reply #7 on: September 13, 2018, 09:53:40 PM »

I have genuine Deuce risers on my Valk, they were one of the best things that I have done to my Valk, the bars are now in a more comfortable position. As to cables you can re-route them or alternatively as I have done get an IS throttle boss (Pinwall) and as the cables exit down instead of forward you can easily keep standard cables and routing.
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Colin
Retired and living in Spain and riding my bike most weeks due to the great weather here.
VRCC Espana
My Bumble Bee re-build
Redline +
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Northwest Washington


« Reply #8 on: September 13, 2018, 10:07:58 PM »

As to cables you can re-route them or alternatively as I have done get an IS throttle boss (Pinwall) and as the cables exit down instead of forward you can easily keep standard cables and routing


You can see the Interstate throttle housing installed on the Standard pictured above.


Redline Cool
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #9 on: September 14, 2018, 01:31:38 AM »

I have the HD Deuce risers too.  (I don't know if they are OE or aftermarket)

They are 5.5", rather than the more usual 4" aftermarket risers (Valk OE risers are 3 1/8")

As mentioned, the domes on the bottom of these risers need ground flat, reroute cables behind the triple tree (or go to interstate throttle housings), and either drill out a few thousandths of material from the riser holes in the tree, or buy these riser conversion bolts (SAE to metric).

https://www.baronscustom.com/catalog/display/1182/index.html

http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/LA_Choppers_Handlebar_Risers_Mounting_Bolts_1_2_p/lac-risers-studs.htm

If you drill out the holes (to 1/2"), only a slight bit of material is shaved, and you can always go back to metric with no loss of function.

On the other hand, these 4" risers require no mods of any kind (at least on interstates with interstate throttle housings). I have them on my other Valk.
https://www.aeromachmfg.com/RISER_SET_4_VTX_Retro_1300_p/am-4120c.htm

Or, go with one inch riser spacers for metric bikes with one inch handlebars. (cheapest)

I'm also 5'9".  I prefer the 4" risers for cranking and banking and the 5.5" risers for kicked back cruising.  Note the 5.5" risers at full lock turns put the bar ends/your hands close to your thighs.  Not touching, but close.

No one has reported deuce risers (original HD or aftermarket) ever breaking.   These 4" aftermarket riser top clamps have cracked through to the bolts.




  
« Last Edit: September 14, 2018, 03:29:08 PM by Jess from VA » Logged
9Ball
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South Jersey


« Reply #10 on: September 14, 2018, 02:18:06 AM »

Risers are something I havent considered for my project, let me know how it goes if you get them.
btw, I cant find mine, I may be up to buy your stockers.

thx

I have several spare sets...
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
9Ball
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South Jersey


« Reply #11 on: September 14, 2018, 02:29:08 AM »

Thinking about swapping my stock risers on a 97 Standard for these:

Biker's Choice Chrome Deuce Style Pullback Risers 56033-00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GZKTD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cxUMBb9PXC1QB

I’m a 5’9 shrimp and just got a new Corbin seat that sits me too far back for comfort. Id like the handlebars to sit about 1-2 inches higher and another 1-2 inches towards me. Does anyone have any experience with these risers? Like them? Hate them? Other suggestions?

Thanks!
-AG


In the meantime you can rotate the bars down some to gain a little extra pullback.

Make sure to pad the gas tank with a couple of pillows so that you don’t dent the tank when you loosen the bolts.  A second pair of hands can also help to hold the bars while you sit on the bike to check for best position.

Finally, make sure you don’t rotate them too far downward or you may hit the tank when you turn the handlebars to the max left and right positions.

Good luck.  I’ve had the Aeromach risers since 2000 and they look like new.  Pricy but top quality...and stock throttle cables and brake lines work without modification.

https://www.aeromachmfg.com/RISER_SET_4_VTX_Retro_1300_p/am-4190c.htm
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VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S
Kunkies
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Posts: 279


Charlotte, NC


« Reply #12 on: September 14, 2018, 03:32:43 AM »

I installed AeroMach risers on my 2000 GL1500CT (Valkyrie Tourer).  They extend 2", and consistent with comments above, means you don't have to swap out any cables.

The extra 2", brings grips closer providing more control and comfort.  No more "reaching" which may cause fatigue in your shoulders, and upper back.

One of the best mods I've done.
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97BLKVALK
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VRCC#26021

Detroit Lakes, MN


« Reply #13 on: September 14, 2018, 04:26:36 AM »

Harley Davidson Deuce risers are a good option for the Valkyrie. I can't speak for the aftermarket knock-offs, I choose to use genuine HD risers on my 2002 Standard.

The HD risers are not a direct bolt-on, Harley uses a counterbore in the top clamp and the risers have a step in the base that locates in this counterbore. This step needs to be removed to mount on a Valkyrie. The bolt holes in the top clamp also need to be enlarged slightly. With some fiddling, the wiring length is OK, hose lengths are OK, I did install longer throttle cables and an Interstate housing for a cleaner install.

The Deuce risers made a big difference for me, bringing the bars back so I'm not reaching for them, reducing shoulder and back fatigue.



Redline Cool

Exactly what i did.  Great Picture Redline! cooldude
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1997 GL1500C - Purple
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MarkT
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VRCC #437 "Form follows Function"

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« Reply #14 on: September 14, 2018, 06:20:12 AM »

I have the same risers as Redline on Jade.  I re-routed the throttle cables aft of the triple tree and rotated the bars down so my wrists are straight.  This helps a lot for comfort and dealing with carpal-tunnel and hand numbness.  I keep my handle bars low on all my bikes and learned long ago to move my knee out of the way for full-lock turns.  Easy to get in that habit; while full-lock turns generally only happen if needing to make a U-turn.  On Jade I have both a Brake-Away throttle lock and a Rostra electronic cruise control - handy mods for a long-distance cruiser.  Other relevent mods - a Russell seat, backrest and highway pegs with fwd controls - I'm 6ft with 31" inseam; don't reach for the bars.

« Last Edit: September 14, 2018, 06:24:10 AM by MarkT » Logged


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RealAG
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Posts: 14

Roseville, Michigan


« Reply #15 on: September 14, 2018, 01:54:14 PM »

Thank you everyone for the massive amount of feedback. I’m thinking of ditching the amazon pair from my post and going with the AeroMach. I’ll post an update when I’ve made the change.

Thanks again!
-AG
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #16 on: September 14, 2018, 02:37:13 PM »

You won't be sorry.  They work well, and are an easy install (DO pad the tank, once the 2d bolt is loosened, even superman isn't fast enough to stop the bars smacking the tank).

They're overpriced, but the trade-off of plug and play with no screwing around is a partial payback.

Keep in mind, the Aeromach's come with separate top clamps, the OE single top clamp does not fit them.  Many have velcroed various electronic stuff to the fat OE top clamp.

I always antiseize bolts like riser bolts.  (It can be many years before you may want them loose for something else)
 
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..
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #17 on: September 14, 2018, 03:02:30 PM »

(DO pad the tank, once the 2d bolt is loosened, even superman isn't fast enough to stop the bars smacking the tank).

 

 cooldude
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JimC
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Posts: 1818

SE Wisconsin


« Reply #18 on: September 14, 2018, 04:05:24 PM »

Does anyone have a set of aftermarket risers installed on their Interstate?

What is the rise and pullback of the originals on the interstate?

What did you use size wise?

I want to raise the bar up about an inch, and bring it back to me about an inch from stock.
I would be buying the cheapo ones not the Aeromac ones, but I want to make sure I have the correct length. Some places measure them to the top of the riser from base, others measure them from base to the center of the handlebar.

Jim
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Jim Callaghan    SE Wisconsin
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« Reply #19 on: September 14, 2018, 05:25:50 PM »

Does anyone have a set of aftermarket risers installed on their Interstate?

What is the rise and pullback of the originals on the interstate?

What did you use size wise?

I want to raise the bar up about an inch, and bring it back to me about an inch from stock.
I would be buying the cheapo ones not the Aeromac ones, but I want to make sure I have the correct length. Some places measure them to the top of the riser from base, others measure them from base to the center of the handlebar.

Jim
I believe the stock risers are the same on Interstates and Standards and Tourers. If I remember correctly the Interstate bars themselves are an inch wider.
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Bighead
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Madison Alabama


« Reply #20 on: September 14, 2018, 05:45:23 PM »

Stock risers been good for 200k valk miles here. Never an issue. Split between standard and IS.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
98valk
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South Jersey


« Reply #21 on: September 14, 2018, 06:05:39 PM »

Does anyone have a set of aftermarket risers installed on their Interstate?

What is the rise and pullback of the originals on the interstate?

What did you use size wise?

I want to raise the bar up about an inch, and bring it back to me about an inch from stock.
I would be buying the cheapo ones not the Aeromac ones, but I want to make sure I have the correct length. Some places measure them to the top of the riser from base, others measure them from base to the center of the handlebar.

Jim
I believe the stock risers are the same on Interstates and Standards and Tourers. If I remember correctly the Interstate bars themselves are an inch wider.

I/S bars are 5mm shorter per side for better fairing wind protection.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

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John Adams 10/11/1798
Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #22 on: September 14, 2018, 07:33:23 PM »

Does anyone have a set of aftermarket risers installed on their Interstate?

What is the rise and pullback of the originals on the interstate?

What did you use size wise?

I want to raise the bar up about an inch, and bring it back to me about an inch from stock.
I would be buying the cheapo ones not the Aeromac ones, but I want to make sure I have the correct length. Some places measure them to the top of the riser from base, others measure them from base to the center of the handlebar.

Jim


Jim, there are a good number of long threads on here about bar risers, with pics and links and discussions.

OE Valk risers  are 3 1/8" tall.  Any decently made 4" risers (for metric bikes with one-inch bars) should be plug and play and give you good service.

Scootworks makes some heavy duty risers.  http://www.scootworks.com/shop.cgi/page=partshonhandle.htm/SID=PUT_SID_HERE

Theoretically, a set of one-inch riser spacers (and longer bolts) should be the cheapest way to go.  You just add them in to the existing risers.  Again for one-inch (diameter) bars.  I've seen them discussed on here before, but I could not find any to link here.

Rise and pullback generally include both the riser and bar together.  Plus, because the triple tree is angled, exact accurate measurements are not always available.
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JimC
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SE Wisconsin


« Reply #23 on: September 14, 2018, 08:08:13 PM »

Thanks Jess,
That answers part of what I am wondering.

Stock being 3 1/8 tall, is that to the center of the hole for the bar?
If that is the case, a four inch rise should do close to what I want because they are angled back also, correct?
I seldom see measurements on them, they just call it a 4 inch, or 5 inch, etc.

I want to bring my bars up above the bottom edge of the fairing where it sits now, and toward me a little because I want to mount something to the bar between the clamps.

Thanks, Jim
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Jim Callaghan    SE Wisconsin
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Northwest Washington


« Reply #24 on: September 14, 2018, 08:08:55 PM »

I/S bars are 5mm shorter per side for better fairing wind protection.


Really? 5mm... that's .197"... just a bit over 3/16"... why would Honda bother with that?  
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Cracker Jack
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Posts: 556



« Reply #25 on: September 14, 2018, 08:17:09 PM »

I/S bars are 5mm shorter per side for better fairing wind protection.


Really? 5mm... that's .197"... just a bit over 3/16"... why would Honda bother with that? 


I'm sure glad they did that, sure makes my hands warmer in winter with the extra protection. uglystupid2
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #26 on: September 14, 2018, 09:33:54 PM »

Stock being 3 1/8 tall, is that to the center of the hole for the bar?

I really don't know, and gave my old risers away along time ago.  You could get a pretty good idea with a ruler/tape on your own bike.

Funny that reminds me.  I gave them to a guy and just asked for postage.  He stiffed me for the postage.  (Not on VRCC)

If you don't know, you can always loosen the clamps and get a little movement up and down just with any stock setup.  But most all my bikes needed taller risers from stock (except dirt bikes).

If I wanted to bend forward all day, I could ride crotch rockets (or bicycles).  crazy2

 

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MarkT
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« Reply #27 on: September 15, 2018, 07:03:38 AM »

I found, small increases in the rise don't help me much.  Now put a big riser in there, and definitely worth the trouble for me.  Yeah a little more work to install.  Mainly moving the cables.  At least I didn't have to replace them.  Doesn't look pretty but this ain't a show bike.

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Ken aka Oil Burner
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« Reply #28 on: February 03, 2019, 10:07:49 AM »

Dragging up a 5 month old thread here, I know. Question is related, and didn't see a need for a new thread.

Those with the HD Deuce risers, or aftermarket variations of those: Best way to machine the step off of the bottom without damaging the finish on the base?  Bandsaw, grinder, end mill? I'm not a machinist, but can likely find someone with a milling machine if need be. I have access to a metal lathe, but not sure how I'd set it up.

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Lyle Laun
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Calgary, Ab


« Reply #29 on: February 03, 2019, 10:58:33 AM »

Just go at it with a grinder, it’s not much of an upset.

Lyle
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Get out & Ride !!
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Jess from VA
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No VA


« Reply #30 on: February 03, 2019, 01:09:20 PM »

Grinder.  Just paint with clear coat (or something) and no rust, no issues.
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Brian
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Monroe, NC


« Reply #31 on: February 06, 2019, 03:39:09 AM »

Just my two cents from my experience with the cheap imports. I added risers to my Suzuki  C90 trike when I added a fairing. Not knowing exactly what rise and pullback I needed I went cheap. First the aluminum threads for the triple tree bolt stripped out. Then the knurling inside the handlebar clamps would not hold the bars up and tight. The style of risers I have do have smooth covers. I had to drill a tap for a set screw in each cap that now holds the bar in place without interfering with the covers. Maneuvering a trike does put more stress on the risers and they do twist in the rubber mounting of the triple tree on this C90. One more issue with these, in the trash bin they go. Now I understand why mother Honda put that solid cover on top of both risers. It stops the twisting.
Good luck.
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h13man
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Indiana NW Central Flatlands


« Reply #32 on: February 06, 2019, 05:51:18 AM »

For additional options, 2002-2007 VTX 1800C risers are 5" tall with 3" pullback but are $140 for a set.
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Bambam650
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Cincinnati, Ohio


« Reply #33 on: February 06, 2019, 04:11:07 PM »

I have these on my '97 Standard and really like them. No modifications required. The quality is top notch.

https://www.baronscustom.com/catalog/display/775/index.html
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3W-lonerider
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Shippensburg Pa


« Reply #34 on: February 07, 2019, 02:57:03 PM »

Just my two cents from my experience with the cheap imports. I added risers to my Suzuki  C90 trike when I added a fairing. Not knowing exactly what rise and pullback I needed I went cheap. First the aluminum threads for the triple tree bolt stripped out. Then the knurling inside the handlebar clamps would not hold the bars up and tight. The style of risers I have do have smooth covers. I had to drill a tap for a set screw in each cap that now holds the bar in place without interfering with the covers. Maneuvering a trike does put more stress on the risers and they do twist in the rubber mounting of the triple tree on this C90. One more issue with these, in the trash bin they go. Now I understand why mother Honda put that solid cover on top of both risers. It stops the twisting.
Good luck.
i was worried about the same thing with mine being a trike.
did'nt want to go into a turn hot and heavy only to have the risers break.
so i'm still using stock.
as far as the top bridge being solid. that definitely makes sense. i can see without the top bridge being solid the forces would try and twist the singles
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