1998 standard no power

[BryanBozz]

Ive got a 19989 Valk standard and when I turn the key on there is now NO power to lights or anything at all. I had this once before many years ago and it was a starter solenoid. I  just replaced that and still nothing. I thought I heard a pop noise coming from the left side when this originally happened but dont know what it could be. I know there are 3 or so electrical components behind the left side cover but am not sure what to try next. The battery it fine, the large metal fuse bar in intact and all fuses are good that I can see. Im moving in a couple months and this will be stored for shipping. I cant afford to take to the shop so any help is appreciated.

[Chrisj CMA]

Is the kill switch in “kill”? If it’s in “run” function it back and forth thirty or forty times if still nothing try repairing the starter switch. Them contacts can get stuck in the slot they ride in and no longer get pressed up to make contact. Procedure for that Is in shop talk

Also make sure the battery connections are clean and tight

[Moofner]

You can also try a push start and see if it turns over and fires. I had to ride home once after my starter switch went full buggered.

You'll have no headlight but the bike will fire if there are no other electrical issues and the run switch is working.

[da prez]

Let your location be known. There is help nearby.

               da prez

[MarkT]

Check the battery ground on the back of the aluminum engine block.  When that fails it behaves just as you said.  Run a jumper wire from the battery to a steel ground - turn on the key - if your lights come on you've found the problem.  Move that wire to the left footpeg bracket mount bolt - then it's a steel ground.  You'll have to ream out the round connector but the wire is already long enough.  FYI Honda doesn't use star washers on aluminum grounds which is ISO2000 (I think) std here in the US.  The aluminum surface gets oxidized and blocks low volt connections with too much impedence.  I had this happen on a road trip and had to move the wire in the cold and dark when I figured out what it was. I've since moved that wire on all my Valks.

[MarkT]

Mark, thanks for the useful idea.  I'll look at running a separate wire from battery minus to a frame piece nearby.  That would be "belt and suspenders".  No need for a real heavy wire if the run is short.  Connecting to aluminum is always "iffy".

I haven't checked the amps vs. gauge chart but as a SWAG I wouldn't go less than 8 gauge.  It has to carry cranking power.  Just moving the existing wire is easiest.

Speaking of that here's a table - from off-roaders.com: