Front blinker/running light issue

[The emperor has no clothes]

I've just noticed an issue with my fronts. This morning as I was getting ready to ride to work I noticed my right side running light was out. I thought maybe the bulb was burnt out. But when I hit the left blinker and then cancelled it, the right side running light comes back on and the left running light goes out. I tried this back and forth a couple times on the way to work with the same results for each side. When I got home today and checked it again it worked properly but I could see a faint bleed thru of the blinker on the opposite side of the other blinker, but the running lights came back on when they were canceled. I haven't done any wiring stuff in a while, so I don't think it's something I screwed up. I'm kind of leaning towards the blinker switch on the handlebar may need cleaning. But I really have no idea what would be causing this. Any ideas ?

[indybobm]

Sounds like it is time to clean the contacts in the turn signal switch.

[Tfrank59]

Sounds like it is time to clean the contacts in the turn signal switch.

   At least that's where I'd start.   BTW, nice that you can ride to work these days!!

[sandy]

You need to lube the high speed knifilin pin. Be sure to use Honda moly paste with 59.5% moly.

[john_berry]

If this is about your Standard Valk, Take a look at the connectors inside the headlight where the lights plug in. My instincts tell me you have an ground wire not completely plugged in on one of the lights.

[nogrey]

If this is about your Standard Valk, Take a look at the connectors inside the headlight where the lights plug in. My instincts tell me you have an ground wire not completely plugged in on one of the lights.

+1 to this suggestion. I had a similar issue and found that the common (ground) wire had come loose in the headlight bucket. Things in the bucket see a lot of weather so not a bad idea to clean the connectors and reconnect with a little dialectric grease on the back side. You can get dialectric grease at any auto parts store, usually in the same section you find gasket glue, JB weld etc. I would also just go ahead and open up the clamshell and disassemble, clean and lube the switch contacts. As a winter project, I’ve been going through a new (to me) 2001 interstate. I noticed that when I’d switch between high and low beam that there was always a delay, and sometimes it was pretty long. I had to disassemble the clamshelll (a second time as I had already cleaned the blinker contacts) and clean and lubricate the hi/low beam switch. 

[Jersey]

You need to lube the high speed knifilin pin. Be sure to use Honda moly paste with 59.5% moly.

He can't do that without Special Tool #4377.  Ask the dealer about that, they might lend one out.

[WintrSol]

I'm kind of leaning towards the blinker switch on the handlebar may need cleaning. But I really have no idea what would be causing this. Any ideas ?

Just FYI, if you don't already know, there are actually two switches for each side bound together - one that turns the blinker on, and one that turns the running light off, so, instead of the blinker going dim-bright-dim etc., it goes to off-bright-off etc.; if both switches don't return to the normal position, you can have your symptoms. If a good cleaning and lube doesn't fix it, then go after the loose contacts in the connectors.

[NewValker]

Rob, mine does that occasionally, if I cancel by pushing the switch in. If I thumb the switch the opposite way, both stay on.
Seems cooler temps makes it worse.
Then sometimes it works as it’s supposed to.

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it....
Craig

[Leathel]

Are running lights std on all US Valkyrie models or just a tourer thing? My UK model doesn't have them.

My old US VT1100C had running lights and it did help it stand out to cars...

I have fitted bright LED lights on the Valk to help it stand out 

[Bambam650]

Yes, I believe so.  My '97 Standard has the running lights up front.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Thanks guys. I've got tomorrow off, I will start with cleaning the blinker switching.

Leathel, as far as I know ALL models have the running lights. I can't think of a good reason they would change the Euro models. Maybe a previous owner did something. Maybe one of our European members will chime in.

[Leathel]

Its not common to have running lights from factory here, Mostly US models have them, Newer bikes have white daylight LEDs

I doubt mine have been played with as its only had 2 owners and was stock in every other way... so maybe std without them for UK models

[WintrSol]

Its not common to have running lights from factory here, Mostly US models have them, Newer bikes have white daylight LEDs

I doubt mine have been played with as its only had 2 owners and was stock in every other way... so maybe std without them for UK models

One way to tell - take a bulb out of one front signal, and if the socket has two terminals, it is equipped for DRL. The wires to the turn switch may not be installed, though.

[The emperor has no clothes]

A good cleaning took care of it. Thanks guys 

[Leathel]

Its not common to have running lights from factory here, Mostly US models have them, Newer bikes have white daylight LEDs

I doubt mine have been played with as its only had 2 owners and was stock in every other way... so maybe std without them for UK models

One way to tell - take a bulb out of one front signal, and if the socket has two terminals, it is equipped for DRL. The wires to the turn switch may not be installed, though.

single socket

[WintrSol]

Its not common to have running lights from factory here, Mostly US models have them, Newer bikes have white daylight LEDs

I doubt mine have been played with as its only had 2 owners and was stock in every other way... so maybe std without them for UK models

One way to tell - take a bulb out of one front signal, and if the socket has two terminals, it is equipped for DRL. The wires to the turn switch may not be installed, though.

single socket

Interesting. Now we know the rules for the US weren't extended to your neighborhood, which is too often the case.

[Bambam650]

For $10 you can easily convert your front turn signals to running lights.

https://www.radiantz.com/Dual-element-circuit-p/19.htm

[The emperor has no clothes]

Its not common to have running lights from factory here, Mostly US models have them, Newer bikes have white daylight LEDs

I doubt mine have been played with as its only had 2 owners and was stock in every other way... so maybe std without them for UK models

One way to tell - take a bulb out of one front signal, and if the socket has two terminals, it is equipped for DRL. The wires to the turn switch may not be installed, though.

single socket

Interesting. Now we know the rules for the US weren't extended to your neighborhood, which is too often the case.

Must some European laws against the use of running lights ?

[cookiedough]

A good cleaning took care of it. Thanks guys 

where did you clean?

I have a weird issue turn signal lights worked fine until I had to move both front brackets mounted to the forks down as low as possible to install last year my windshield on my tourer.  Now, no turn signals work or sometimes come on after 30 seconds or longer, very weird.  Doubt is my turn signal switch housing since worked fine prior to moving both front turn signals down lower.

[The emperor has no clothes]

A good cleaning took care of it. Thanks guys 

where did you clean?

I have a weird issue turn signal lights worked fine until I had to move both front brackets mounted to the forks down as low as possible to install last year my windshield on my tourer.  Now, no turn signals work or sometimes come on after 30 seconds or longer, very weird.  Doubt is my turn signal switch housing since worked fine prior to moving both front turn signals down lower.

I took the switch completely apart and cleaned. I think probably the most important part to clean is down inside the little white plastic box. You can do that by moving the switch to one side, cleaning with a Q-tip and doing the same with the other side. I went back and forth a few times with some degreaser on the q-tip.

[RonW]

I think probably the most important part to clean is down inside the little white plastic box. You can do that by moving the switch to one side, cleaning with a Q-tip and doing the same with the other side. I went back and forth a few times with some degreaser on the q-tip.

You can deep clean the contacts by removing the thumb lever. All it takes is removing 2 internal screws.

With the thumb lever out of the way, you can remove the holder (B). The holder is just friction fitted in a recess and simple to pluck out. This allows you to separate the stationary contact from the movable contact.




This way it's easy to clean the copper contacts and the coil spring under the contacts, and any encrustation on the legs of the contacts. The legs slip up and down in the side slots.





The stationary contact has a ledge that overhangs the movable contact (left pic). This makes it hard to work contact cleaner into the crevice even with a thin straw without separating the contacts. Grundge  tends to collect or gets trapped on the turnsignal contact which sits on the top row. Not as much on the running light contact on the bottom row.





Also, the movable contact has a spring loaded ball that slips in and and out of divots. Crud can build up in the divots.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I thought about taking the white plastic box apart and getting in there really good. But I went the easy way. If it does it again I’ll take more time and do a thorough job of it.

[WintrSol]

Excellent instructions, RonW
Also, a good way to clean it in preparation for adding the SignalBoss.