Switch Rant

[zackod]

Neither running/fog light will come on.  Fog Lights and Fog Light switch/harness are Honda OEM, installed by Honda dealer.    Bike is garage kept.   I checked all fuses and removed the fog light switch panel.   All connections solid (no corrosion) and Fuse is good.  Dealer determined I need a new fog light switch/harness ($60) and high/low bean switch box ($118).    I already had my light switch box (and my Kill Engine switch) replaced under warranty mid-2017.   This will be my 3rd light switch.  Cost to get my fog lights back online approx $370 (warranty expired April 2018).  Bugs me to no end my 19 y.o Suzuki Bandits switches never fail me, but my Honda has needed four switch replacements (2 Light / 1 Kill / 1 Fog).   1st world problems I know, but DAMN.

[Robert]

Yup remember when you did this and were told that WD40 sprayed in the switches and then work the switches may work.

[Jess from VA]

CRC or radio shack electronic cleaner spray is better than WD40.

I always hit mine after rain rides and washes.

The interstate has like 27 toggle switches (& locks).

[zackod]

I remember what you told me Robert, but I was still under warranty back then.  In 2017, free Light/Kill switches and free dealer install spoke my language.  For me functioning fog lights was a mandatory safety item.  I don't have the skills or patience you do, so going to pay the dealer to install.  I had totally forgot the fog lights are inter-connected to the high beam switch. IE Turn high beams on, fog light are designed to turn off.   Meaning fog light issue can mean a light switch box issue, or in my case, both switches.  Dealer did state the part number for the light switch is different now then when they replaced in 2017, meaning Honda may have recognized the issue and re-designed.   Note to me - All good / ride on / get it fixed / stop bitching.

[Bill Havins]

When WD-40 dries it becomes an insulator.  It can actually cause switches to stop working, especially in low current applications.

Here is a much better product to use:  https://caig.com/deoxit-shield-s-series/

The best way to use the Deoxit S-Series is to, first, clean the switch contacts with one of their contact cleaners, and then apply the S-Series protectant.  A friend of mine who rides and also works for a very reputable LED manufacturer swears by Deoxit.  It is a tad pricey, but it is ideal for open contact type switches.

Bill

[Robert]

I remember what you told me Robert, but I was still under warranty back then.  In 2017, free Light/Kill switches and free dealer install spoke my language.  For me functioning fog lights was a mandatory safety item.  I don't have the skills or patience you do, so going to pay the dealer to install.  I had totally forgot the fog lights are inter-connected to the high beam switch. IE Turn high beams on, fog light are designed to turn off.   Meaning fog light issue can mean a light switch box issue, or in my case, both switches.  Dealer did state the part number for the light switch is different now then when they replaced in 2017, meaning Honda may have recognized the issue and re-designed.   Note to me - All good / ride on / get it fixed / stop bitching.

First let me say sorry at my wording.

I doubt the switches are any different now than then and the real problem is the loss of contact will come back. Repairing something is not always about replacement, especially when a little lubricant will do the job better than a new part.

[AdrianR]

I remember what you told me Robert, but I was still under warranty back then.  In 2017, free Light/Kill switches and free dealer install spoke my language.  For me functioning fog lights was a mandatory safety item.  I don't have the skills or patience you do, so going to pay the dealer to install.  I had totally forgot the fog lights are inter-connected to the high beam switch. IE Turn high beams on, fog light are designed to turn off.   Meaning fog light issue can mean a light switch box issue, or in my case, both switches.  Dealer did state the part number for the light switch is different now then when they replaced in 2017, meaning Honda may have recognized the issue and re-designed.   Note to me - All good / ride on / get it fixed / stop bitching.

First let me say sorry at my wording.

I doubt the switches are any different now than then and the real problem is the loss of contact will come back. Repairing something is not always about replacement, especially when a little lubricant will do the job better than a new part.

Always dig your advice dude...killer logic...anyway, yeah, I had that problem last night...I just squirted electronics parts cleaner into the sides of the switch...CRC brand without lubricant...do you use one with lubricant?  If so, which one?  I could also use it with my guitar amps.  Radio Shack use to have a great one, but their gone and so is the product.

[Robert]

I remember what you told me Robert, but I was still under warranty back then.  In 2017, free Light/Kill switches and free dealer install spoke my language.  For me functioning fog lights was a mandatory safety item.  I don't have the skills or patience you do, so going to pay the dealer to install.  I had totally forgot the fog lights are inter-connected to the high beam switch. IE Turn high beams on, fog light are designed to turn off.   Meaning fog light issue can mean a light switch box issue, or in my case, both switches.  Dealer did state the part number for the light switch is different now then when they replaced in 2017, meaning Honda may have recognized the issue and re-designed.   Note to me - All good / ride on / get it fixed / stop bitching.

First let me say sorry at my wording.

I doubt the switches are any different now than then and the real problem is the loss of contact will come back. Repairing something is not always about replacement, especially when a little lubricant will do the job better than a new part.

Always dig your advice dude...killer logic...anyway, yeah, I had that problem last night...I just squirted electronics parts cleaner into the sides of the switch...CRC brand without lubricant...do you use one with lubricant?  If so, which one?  I could also use it with my guitar amps.  Radio Shack use to have a great one, but their gone and so is the product.

For the switch on the bike use the CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor, once applied it stays and you dont have to reapply it all the time like the lighter stuff. Do not use it as a lubricant either it really does a lousy job of it, but as a corrosion block its hands down the best for me. Much better than products like BOESHIELD T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection/Inhibitor and Waterproof Lubrication, 12 oz, at double the price.

You do know for your instruments you can use WD 40 also its lighter and does not last as long or but it does the job. For the connections or internals to the amps from the guitars you could use this CRC. But it would be a little heavy and messy if you got in on the outside of the connections.

This was the only thing I found to hold up here in SFla with washing the bike and the weather and kept the switch working great for a long time.