Rear End Maint. (10000m check-up)

[mrgeoff]

    Well,have 38500m on my 99 Tourer and did my 10000m Rear End Service...Found everything well maintained from last time I did the rear end...I changed out the Yoke this time and will keep the old one for a spare...I decided to spray the new boot with a silicon spray and a zip lock bag over night...Once I got the Yoke in it took about 15 minutes to get the boot on properly...I rolled the rear end of the boot back and it took several times before I got the hang of rolling it onto the Swing Arm...I was pleasantly surprised...As for when I was placing the wheel back on the rear hub drive I ran into trouble...I think that fat new O-Ring was holding me back from fully seating the rear wheel...I eventually ended up placing a spacer (Open End Wrench) between the left end of the axle and the frame while I had the axle slid in and tightened the axle nut until the rear wheel finally was pressed into the Hub...I thought I was stronger then I was...It was wearing me out until I decided to use a spacer to draw the wheel in...It worked fine...I didn't have this problem the last time I did the Rear End Service...Guess that new Fat O-Ring was sealing really good...I was just about worn out trying to push and tug that rear wheel...But now I learned that there is more then one way to get that wheel on...Everything else went on like it was suppose to...Took her for a ride and am very pleased...So...just take your time and all things will work out...Oh, and I didn't even have to cuss...(a lot)…!!! Thought this might help some one in the future...!!!
Sandman...!!!

[John Schmidt]

I get the bike up just far enough to give the tire maybe 2" clearance off the floor, doesn't need to be any higher to R&R the rear end. When I reinstall the wheel, I line it up without engaging the splines and run the axle all the way through without the spacer or brake mount. That allows you to slide the wheel back/forth on the axle but the big thing is.....you're not having to lift and pull at the same time. The wheel is already lined up so all you have to do is engage the splines and it slips in place. Then just pull the axle out just far enough to allow you to insert the spacer and brake mount.

[mrgeoff]

   Good info John...I did do this first but it was just not going into the gears all the way...I had no problem the last time I did this...but...just when you think you have done it all...another situation seems to appear...But the good thing is...It is running great now...Maybe I need to start working out more...I hate it that a 20year old wears out a 66 year old...Got to eat my Wheaties...!!!

[Valkpilot]

I get the bike up just far enough to give the tire maybe 2" clearance off the floor, doesn't need to be any higher to R&R the rear end. When I reinstall the wheel, I line it up without engaging the splines and run the axle all the way through without the spacer or brake mount. That allows you to slide the wheel back/forth on the axle but the big thing is.....you're not having to lift and pull at the same time. The wheel is already lined up so all you have to do is engage the splines and it slips in place. Then just pull the axle out just far enough to allow you to insert the spacer and brake mount.

This also keeps you from cutting the "elusive 3rd" o-ring in the drive, which happens easily if you approach the rear drive at an angle and "tip" the wheel into position.