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Antony
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« on: April 15, 2019, 10:54:53 AM » |
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Hi folks.
Can anyone tell me the difference between the fuel taps on the Valkyrie CD, CT vs the CF Interstate?
they are different part numbers, but comparing the 2 different parts, I can't see the difference with the exception that the non Interstate models have the small black plastic lever to turn fuel on and off. The CD & CT use part number 16950-MZ0-033. The Valkyrie Interstate uses 16950-MBY-033.
Is the only difference the small black plastic lever on the non Interstate model?
Will a non Interstate tap be compatible with an Interstate?
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: April 15, 2019, 11:01:03 AM » |
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Small black plastic lever? That makes no sense, never seen that. All model Valkyries up to 2003 should be able to use the same petcock. Many times Honda may either use a new manufacturer or update something and it gets a new part number but the part should still fit all models
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Bighead
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« Reply #3 on: April 15, 2019, 11:23:15 AM » |
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That is a chinese POS. Not a Honda petcock. All std-tourer and IS petcocks are the same.
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #4 on: April 15, 2019, 01:23:56 PM » |
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I have worked on a lot of Valkyries and seen even more and never seen one of those on a Valkyrie. |
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98valk
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« Reply #5 on: April 15, 2019, 01:37:34 PM » |
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the only difference btwn the I/S one and the others is the length of the brass tube is different for the I/S which affects the amount of fuel for reserve.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #6 on: April 15, 2019, 02:33:24 PM » |
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Maybe that black lever is to allow you to use the valve if your stock chrome knob is missing or damaged? It would have to come off to use your chrome knob, regardless.
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« Last Edit: April 16, 2019, 06:19:53 AM by Gryphon Rider »
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Bighead
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« Reply #7 on: April 15, 2019, 03:10:36 PM » |
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the only difference btwn the I/S one and the others is the length of the brass tube is different for the I/S which affects the amount of fuel for reserve.
Yes but it will work on either correct? |
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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Antony
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« Reply #8 on: April 15, 2019, 05:06:01 PM » |
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That's interesting, because it's identical to the one currently on my interstate that has failed. It looks like it has rotted out from the inside[. I have worked on a lot of Valkyries and seen even more and never seen one of those on a Valkyrie. |
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #9 on: April 15, 2019, 05:57:32 PM » |
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That's interesting, because it's identical to the one currently on my interstate that has failed. It looks like it has rotted out from the inside[. I have worked on a lot of Valkyries and seen even more and never seen one of those on a Valkyrie. We'll get rid of it and order a Honda petcock. Some have opted for quality substitutes like a pingel. |
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Jims99
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« Reply #10 on: April 16, 2019, 04:52:53 AM » |
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I personally would not use cheap items that could fail and leave me stranded. Go oem or Pingel for the piece of mind. It’s worth it.
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The light at the end of the tunnel, is a train.
99 tourer
00 interstate
97 standard
91 wing
78 trail 70
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RWhitehouse
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« Reply #11 on: April 17, 2019, 06:50:40 AM » |
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My experience with Chinese knock-off parts has been pretty much universally bad. Particularly when it comes to "mission critical" components. You think you're saving a few bucks off the bat, but when that part fails you not only now have to do the job twice, plus any inconvenience it's failure caused, but now buy the quality item anyway- so it ended up costing you more time, money, and hassle than if you'd just bought the good one from the start.
I had a buddy that bought a set of the cheapo $30 "billet aluminum" handlebar risers- the super generic ones you see all over amazon/ebay. "$100 for risers seemed ridiculous, these are perfectly fine". He put them on and all seemed well. We did the Three Sisters ride last weekend, and halfway through the weekend trip he told me the handlebars were loose. I got my toolkit to tighten the bolts under the clamp, and of course found at the first semblance of torque they stripped out. Ended up jury-rigging it to get home but they went in the bin immediately afterward. The "billet aluminum" was chromed pot metal. The threads came out as dust and chunks. That sort of cheapness was genuinely unsafe and easily could have caused an accident.
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pancho
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« Reply #12 on: April 19, 2019, 07:51:51 AM » |
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While I agree one hundred percent with the people who say you must be suspect of "clone" parts, and need to do your research, some of them are good and worth a second look. The first that comes to mind are the $100 Valkyrie front rotors I purchased from the Disk Brake Factory in China a couple of years ago and they arrived at my door FedX 4 days later,, they are working fine with sintered pads, very little wear, no problems and look great. http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,84708.msg833602.html#msg833602This petcock Antony found looks like it may be a winner to me, at least it was worth me spending $15 to get one to examine. I like the idea that the front cover is held on by screws and can be removed. I like the OEM idea of the vacuum operation, so have stayed with factory and have had to rebuild mine twice. Didn't scare me away Antony, I'll let you know what I think after I get it, check it out and use it for a bit. |
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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indybobm
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« Reply #13 on: April 19, 2019, 09:05:50 AM » |
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As noted by someone else, that petcock does not have a weep hole to indicate a bad diaphragm. Also you cannot be sure how the internal parts respond to ethanol. It is intriguing though.
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
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pancho
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« Reply #14 on: April 19, 2019, 11:56:12 AM » |
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I'm not seeing a post that mentions anything about the weep hole indybobm, and there isn't a picture that views it from the bottom. Doesn't matter, I'll check it out when it comes, be interesting to see how well the switch side is built and if the Honda cover set will fit it. I'll use it and rebuild the OEM and keep it for a spare.
Worth $15 to me.
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« Last Edit: April 19, 2019, 11:58:06 AM by pancho »
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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gordonv
Member
Posts: 5760
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #15 on: April 19, 2019, 12:34:35 PM » |
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If no drain hole, drill one in, you can take it apart to inspect where it would need to be.
Might be worth wild buying.
As for the lever, it is the same on my Shadow petcock, and is removable and the valkyrie lever fits over it. That is OEM, but unknown if this aftermarket one is exactly the same size in a few locations.
So far my OEM petcock that will not turn off when driving down the hwy, will not leak fuel with no vacuum sitting level on the table in any position. I've got more research to do before putting the tank back on my bike, and I've already bought a rebuilt kit.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS   |
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98valk
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« Reply #16 on: April 19, 2019, 01:37:46 PM » |
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While I agree one hundred percent with the people who say you must be suspect of "clone" parts, and need to do your research, some of them are good and worth a second look. The first that comes to mind are the $100 Valkyrie front rotors I purchased from the Disk Brake Factory in China a couple of years ago and they arrived at my door FedX 4 days later,, they are working fine with sintered pads, very little wear, no problems and look great. http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,84708.msg833602.html#msg833602This petcock Antony found looks like it may be a winner to me, at least it was worth me spending $15 to get one to examine. I like the idea that the front cover is held on by screws and can be removed. I like the OEM idea of the vacuum operation, so have stayed with factory and have had to rebuild mine twice. Didn't scare me away Antony, I'll let you know what I think after I get it, check it out and use it for a bit. I agree with that, one must do research. just recently on a facebook page they were talking about one who bought china chrome handle bar risers, listed as billet aluminum. on a ride one cracks. they were able to make it home and upon inspection it was chromed pot metal aka die-cast zinc. |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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pancho
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« Reply #17 on: April 21, 2019, 12:14:31 PM » |
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Not sure what your petcock problems are Antony, but many new posters may not be aware of the valve in the petcock rear cap. If the ball becomes stuck, or the pinhole at the 10 oclock position clogs, it can hold a vacuum and allow the petcock to flow in the on and reserve position when the bike is off. This is a common problem, I have cleared it by submerging the piece in B12 and blowing and sucking on a hose connected to the vacuum port until it is clean.  |
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« Last Edit: April 21, 2019, 12:16:23 PM by pancho »
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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Gryphon Rider
Member
Posts: 5227
2000 Tourer
Calgary, Alberta
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« Reply #18 on: April 22, 2019, 06:47:16 AM » |
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So far my OEM petcock that will not turn off when driving down the hwy, will not leak fuel with no vacuum sitting level on the table in any position. I've got more research to do before putting the tank back on my bike, and I've already bought a rebuilt kit.
What you are describing will not be fixed by a rebuild (cover set) kit. Your problem is with the on/off/reserve function of the valve; the kit will only fix problems with the vacuum function of the valve, or fix leaks related to the vacuum side. |
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Antony
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« Reply #19 on: May 07, 2019, 09:56:46 PM » |
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So far my OEM petcock that will not turn off when driving down the hwy, will not leak fuel with no vacuum sitting level on the table in any position. I've got more research to do before putting the tank back on my bike, and I've already bought a rebuilt kit.
What you are describing will not be fixed by a rebuild (cover set) kit. Your problem is with the on/off/reserve function of the valve; the kit will only fix problems with the vacuum function of the valve, or fix leaks related to the vacuum side. It turns out my petcock was completely pooh'd  |
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