Confusing brake issue

[Shade]

Had a new front tire mounted on my '99 Valk Tourer.  Rode the bike about 12 miles and the left rotor was "room temp" and the right rotor was hot enough to burn your finger.  Took it back to the dealer who dissassembled the right caliper, cleaned it, lubricated the pins.  Once installed the wheel turned smoothly with no binding.
Rode 12 miles with the same outcome..left rotor cool, right very hot.
Back to the dealer.  He dissasembled the left rotor and cleaned it and lubricated all moving parts. He also replaced the brake fluid.  He checked the rotors and they seem to be true.  The wheel spins freely until the brake is applied, then it stops as it should. The pads are fine.
Rode another 12 miles.  Again, cool left rotor and very hot right rotor.
The dealer is at his minds end, and I can't blame him.

Can anyone assist in solving this mystery?

[Ricky-D]

Obviously the right rotor is being heated because the pad (inside or outside) is rubbing hard on the rotor.

The reason why the pad is rubbing needs to be discovered.

Which pad that is doing the rubbing needs to be identified.

A rotor that is misaligned can be a reason for the rubbing.  Easy enough to check that possibility.

The brake is a floating caliper so it is important to verify the caliper can move back and forth freely. (inboard to outboard)

The whole front wheel assembly tightens to the right side shock absorber so the only problem from that side related to tightening or looseness could be a wrong spacer installed on the right side or the caliper bracket being in the wrong position by being bent or something like that.  Or, the wheel not being tight caused from a loose axle. Read that as the axle not tightened properly.

Determining which brake pad, inside or outside will point you in the correct direction to look for the answer.

***

[John U.]

This is very unlikely but check that you still have OEM pads in the problem caliper. EBC pads (and maybe others) run quite a bit hotter than OEM.
Let us know how this turns out.

[Patrick]

I think I would start by re-setting the axle correctly and see what happens..

[98valk]

bad caliper? piston is not retracting back into the bore of the caliper. as was said that floating disk is not floating. check the pins for mild rust/corrosion or the installer bent the disk assembly on the tire machine.

[hubcapsc]

I think I would start by re-setting the axle correctly and see what happens..

Agreed... and once I had a similar problem when I neglected to clean the pin that the pads slide
on (I know you said the dealer cleaned and lubed the pins that the caliper slides on)... I yanked out
the dirty pin, cleaned it, problem solved...



-Mike

[Tx Bohemian]

In the 12 miles you talk about, is there any braking involved such as stop lights, signs, etc... or is it 12 miles straight home and only braking to turn into your driveway??

To me if the wheel turns freely it wouldn't be a binding caliper/pads as much as one set doing most of the work.  The idea about different brands/types of pads is interesting.

Good luck with the identification/cure.

[brillo1542]

Everyone is focused on the hot rotor.  Is it possible that the "cool" rotor is not working?  Has that side been checked out?

[Tx Bohemian]

Everyone is focused on the hot rotor.  Is it possible that the "cool" rotor is not working?  Has that side been checked out?

The op stated he returned the second time to have the "cool" side checked.  He stated the mechanic worked on the "rotor" which I take it he meant the caliper. (maye I'm wrong in assuming)

[Tropic traveler]

We had a similar problem with Kim's Valk earlier this year. Front brakes kept getting tighter & tighter, making squeaks right after releasing the brake handle. Got so bad that it became very hard to back up the bike. After riding a bit the brakes would release completely. Neither rotor was hotter, seemed normal. A complete bleeding & fluid change did no good. Turned out the LF caliper pistons were gummed up & SLOWLY retracting. Disassembled the LF caliper, cleaned the pistons and caliper bores, reassembled & re-bled... problem solved. Her bike did sit a lot before we bought it.
Being as your problem started immediately after a wheel removal I would lean towards looking in that direction, maybe something didn't go back together just right. Also don't overlook the possibility of having a bad brake hose on that side. Could be collapsed on the inside & not allowing the fluid to back flow.

[Jeff K]

We had a similar problem with Kim's Valk earlier this year. Front brakes kept getting tighter & tighter, making squeaks right after releasing the brake handle. Got so bad that it became very hard to back up the bike. After riding a bit the brakes would release completely. Neither rotor was hotter, seemed normal. A complete bleeding & fluid change did no good. Turned out the LF caliper pistons were gummed up & SLOWLY retracting. Disassembled the LF caliper, cleaned the pistons and caliper bores, reassembled & re-bled... problem solved. Her bike did sit a lot before we bought it.
Being as your problem started immediately after a wheel removal I would lean towards looking in that direction, maybe something didn't go back together just right. Also don't overlook the possibility of having a bad brake hose on that side. Could be collapsed on the inside & not allowing the fluid to back flow.

I've had to do that also, not on my bike, but a friends Valk. Took the pistons out and chucked them up in the drill press and polished the piston and reinstalled. Works perfect.

[mikeb]

bad caliper? piston is not retracting back into the bore of the caliper. as was said that floating disk is not floating. check the pins for mild rust/corrosion or the installer bent the disk assembly on the tire machine.

i would go with this one you need to pull the caliper off carefully pop the pistons out using a air gun
one at a time clean the pistons with brake cleaner and carefully clean out the area in housing too their are two seals and a small area in between the two seals that gets an corrosion build up too and needs cleaning so the two little cups can & will move freely this is not hard to do just takes a  bit of time ..i have only had to replace the seals once and that was on a 1981 wing . i think if you clean the pistons before you try to push them in it will stop the extra crud from getting in and causing the damage i clean mine everytime i pull an tire off.. front or rear  use no tools to reassamble the pistons in to the caliper just your hands if you have to force it something is wrong stop and look it over good use clean brake fluid as lube to put the parts back in and yes you need to bleed them again too.. if the pistons are pitted try some 1500 grit sand paper if they dont clean up smooth replace them.
  

[Slammer]

The fender finally made it today. No telling where the USPS sent it first but it must have been the scenic route!!!!!!!!

Thanks Again and if I can ever help you out don't hesitate to call

Dusty

[Jeff K]

The fender finally made it today. No telling where the USPS sent it first but it must have been the scenic route!!!!!!!!

Thanks Again and if I can ever help you out don't hesitate to call

Dusty

Lost?

[Karen]

Make sure the axle is completely pushed all the way in. Don't ask me how I know this...

[mikeb]

The fender finally made it today. No telling where the USPS sent it first but it must have been the scenic route!!!!!!!!

Thanks Again and if I can ever help you out don't hesitate to call

Dusty

Lost?

duh i think ill post it  um um here

[Dag]

The fender finally made it today. No telling where the USPS sent it first but it must have been the scenic route!!!!!!!!

Thanks Again and if I can ever help you out don't hesitate to call

Dusty

Confusing brake issue ?
Coincidence that I found this message under this title 
Usually it takes less than one week 

[mikeb]

at least ya found it 

[asfltdncr]

If the dealers takes a failed brake job so lightly as to keep putting you on it without test riding their work on their own, I am not going back to those knuckleheads.

[alph]

Everyone is focused on the hot rotor.  Is it possible that the "cool" rotor is not working?  Has that side been checked out?

I agree with you.  I’m thinking that the left caliper isn’t working.  Every time I’ve ridden my cycle both calipers are way too hot to touch, even if I’m just riding one mile!  Now, if he tells me that he’s riding 12 miles, using his rear brakes and not the front, then he’s got to have a messed up caliper on the right side, I’d have it rebuilt if everything else has been gone through.

[mikeb]

Everyone is focused on the hot rotor.  Is it possible that the "cool" rotor is not working?  Has that side been checked out?

I agree with you.  I’m thinking that the left caliper isn’t working.  Every time I’ve ridden my cycle both calipers are way too hot to touch, even if I’m just riding one mile!  Now, if he tells me that he’s riding 12 miles, using his rear brakes and not the front, then he’s got to have a messed up caliper on the right side, I’d have it rebuilt if everything else has been gone through.

put the bike on a lift and spin the tire by hand  hit the bike once and  look and see what brake it working .take's a friends help. i bet the tire wont spin freely after you release the brake handle  gently tap the side that has been getting hot with the wooded part of the hammer handle and then check if it spins freely ..if it loosens up you know it was sticking
if it spins freely blame the side and ya do not need to tap  with the hammer blame the cold side ..

[Kamisue]

happened on my rear brake.  one piston got a scratch and wasn't retracting.  the caliper would get cockeyed when I hit the brakes and not release.  I tried rebuilding with new seals and got a NOGO.  I tried emory cloth on the piston with the scratch and still NOGO.  I ended up replacing the caliper and the new one worked first time and everytime since.  I'd bet one or more of the pistons isn't retracting.  It doesn't take 12 miles or even one mile to see it. Put the wheel up in the air and spin it and apply the brakes.  You'll see it jack to one side or the other if a piston is sticking.  If both are sticking then something is keeping the brake fluid from flowing back into the system.  My right front is just now starting to do the same thing and I'm gonna pull it apart and give it a good cleaning and some more grease on the pin.  good luck.