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2qmedic
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« on: November 25, 2009, 08:09:24 PM » |
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Hello All, I just had the rear tire off for spline maintenance. All good there.  The problem is that when I took the right saddlebag off, the bottom was cracked approx 1/2 way around ???. Egads, I could see some light through the crack!!!  So, do any of you have a recommendation for repairing the crack and reinforcing the strength a little bit? Thanks for your help |
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junior
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« Reply #1 on: November 26, 2009, 01:44:18 AM » |
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sem makes some really good plastic repair compounds, check with your local paint and body supplers
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #2 on: November 26, 2009, 04:10:13 AM » |
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Our plastic stuff is made out of ABS sewer pipes... here's how I fixed a crack in my sidecover - the repair is still holding up... http://hubcap.clemson.edu/~hubcap/d.sidecover/-Mike |
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Thunderbolt
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« Reply #3 on: November 26, 2009, 04:51:40 AM » |
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have not used it. It was not too expensive. I had the same thing and used some two part epoxy, seems to be working so far.
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2qmedic
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« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2009, 06:22:15 AM » |
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Ah ha,
Good info,
I tried the 2 part epoxy to re-secure the nut plates to the inside of the fairing. not sure what I may have done wrong but 2 of them came back out. That panel is still in place but I also have to fix this somehow.
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JCAL
Member
Posts: 6
1999 Valkyrie
Central, Louisiana
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« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2009, 08:05:38 AM » |
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I have extensively used “ITW Performance Polymers / 25 ml. syringe off white 15 min. plastic welding system” get it at Autozone sometimes Walmart and other places to repair 4 wrecked bikes for friends over the past 5 years Bought one of the plastic welders from Harbor Freight, it has its problems mostly control of the flame/heat in sensitive areas. Concluded a smaller flame or controllable flame tip would be needed I was only able to use it in structural areas out of sight but it worked ok for that. Concluded it would take some practice to get proficient with it, you might pick it right up, don't know. You must make sure that the ITW Performance Polymer plastic welding system bonds to ABS in the area to the left of the tubes under “BONDS” ABS must be listed there otherwise it won't work. I lightly sand areas to glue then wipe clean with acetone, “make sure it is dry”even around cracks and use a needle or long splinter or thin wire to make sure the glue gets down in the crack. Where I can I reinforce the area with another piece of ABS plastic to ensure success, much like a washer or backing plate behind a bolt. I use a heat gun to mold the backing plates in the corners or in areas that have curves. I bought an old goldwing saddlebag off ebay to use for backing plates, etc. I have been successful in bending the backing plates for the type repair you have but you sometimes need to cut them in smaller strips and mold and glue them separately to work with compound curves. Hope this helps.
Jim
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asfltdncr
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« Reply #6 on: November 28, 2009, 08:59:50 AM » |
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To 2QMedic,
This also happened to me and from what I understand, is quite common. I used a two part clear epoxy made by Devcon plastic bonding agent. It comes in a small gun with two cylinders and is available through Walmart-paint section where I live.
I drilled a small hole on both ends of the crack to stop further cracking and carefully ground a small "v" along the crack. I put a piece of tape on the outside to retain the glue and you can take the tape off when it jells up. The grinding and glue should be done on the inside of saddlebag. I did this about 3 years ago and have not had a recurrance.
Good Luck.
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Larry
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« Reply #7 on: November 28, 2009, 10:49:14 AM » |
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Ah ha,
Good info,
I tried the 2 part epoxy to re-secure the nut plates to the inside of the fairing. not sure what I may have done wrong but 2 of them came back out. That panel is still in place but I also have to fix this somehow.
Had some problems with my fairing too with a couple of the repairs not taking. I wound up drilling out the recesses very slightly to give more for the glue to take hold and anchor those brass bosses (proper name?). They are holding fine now. I used JB Weld for those as well as to fix a cracked pod where the bottom attachment is. A large crack like you have would probably need some sort of backing to reinforce the repair. Something like fiberglass cloth would work well. Just have prep the repair site well. Could even just use ABS cement to build up the repair abit. Just put ABS on first and then press the cloth into that and then a bit more ABS to finish. A bit of sanding to smooth it out and paint and there u go. |
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To Ride or Not To Ride? RIDE of course!!!
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asfltdncr
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« Reply #8 on: November 28, 2009, 04:04:32 PM » |
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ABS Glue is black and may spoil the looks unless entirely hidden.
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LadyDraco
Member
Posts: 1861
TISE
Bastian, VA. Some of the best roads in the East
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« Reply #9 on: November 28, 2009, 04:30:55 PM » |
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I have a fixed bags and a fairing with JB Quick ... Did it on the inside .. They have 50 k on them and still good as new... There is a few good ABS epoxy's out there ... I just haven't used it yet... |
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Life is what you make of it~If it don't fit make alterations...
One does not speak unless one knows.
Never underestimate the power of a woman !
It's a Poor Craftsman who blames their Tools !
This is the way
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2qmedic
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« Reply #10 on: December 05, 2009, 10:09:58 AM » |
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Thanks for the info folks, this helps. Now I just have to find the time???? Life seems too busy!! Thanks again  |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #11 on: December 06, 2009, 10:39:17 AM » |
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I haven't ever seen anything that will last when discussing ABS glue. The only thing I have known to be any good at all is welding which they do on automobile bumpers. Sanding and painting for a final job.
Both my bags have the same cracks in the bottom, probably from carrying too much weight. The cracks are at least 10 inches long and I drilled holes at the ends of the cracks to eliminate the stress risers.
My solution was to drill many very small holes (.030) and stitch the cracks back together with 30# mono-filament line. The stitches are about 5 or 6 to the inch and I've had no more trouble since fixing them maybe 4 or 5 years ago. My main thought was to be able to repair again if what I was doing was not going to work. Gluing the cracks was last on my repair list.
***
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #12 on: December 07, 2009, 08:41:05 AM » |
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I haven't ever seen anything that will last when discussing ABS glue.
There would be a lot of unhappy campers if ABS glue didn't hold their DWV together... I found a stress crack on one of my side covers that gets nicely re-stressed every time I take the cover on and off, and it has help up well...   -Mike |
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #13 on: December 08, 2009, 08:02:21 AM » |
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Yup! I see that!
On that particular connecting point I make sure to lubricate it amply with vasoline every time I have to remove the cover.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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hubcapsc
Member
Posts: 16781
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #14 on: December 08, 2009, 08:56:32 AM » |
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Yup! I see that!
On that particular connecting point I make sure to lubricate it amply with vasoline every time I have to remove the cover.
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That's a good idea... I've been lubing mine with rubbing alcohol since I noticed the crack... I get enough stuff pasted to the back of my covers without putting vasoline in there  -Mike |
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