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CMA_Carl
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« on: May 11, 2019, 10:08:35 AM » |
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Brake mount is touching the brake disk? not good! What say you? I cleaned up the ends of the sleeve between the bearings on a grinder, maybe I took off material?
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« Last Edit: May 11, 2019, 04:07:09 PM by CMA_Carl »
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2019, 10:37:26 AM » |
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You shouldn’t be grinding on any spacers. They are a specific length for a reason
Post up a picture of the parts alignment you are talking about
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« Last Edit: May 11, 2019, 10:40:15 AM by Chrisj CMA »
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JimC
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« Reply #2 on: May 11, 2019, 11:39:25 AM » |
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Did you use proper procedure for tightening the front fork pinch bolts when you put it back together?
You have to leave the bolts loose, rock the bike with the front brake on to center the wheel, then tighten the pinch bolts to hold it there. The procedure is in the manual.
Jim
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Jim Callaghan SE Wisconsin
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Savage
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« Reply #3 on: May 11, 2019, 12:02:24 PM » |
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I had this problem after letting a dealer do my front tire change.
Front caliper was rubbing against the disk on one side.
It was caused by improper fork pinch bolt tightening during reassembly.
I fixed it by loosening the fork pinch bolts and following the appropriate procedure as outlined in the manual and by JimC above.
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Columbia, South Carolina
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Chrisj CMA
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« Reply #4 on: May 13, 2019, 04:41:55 AM » |
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So Carl, if the rear wheel is the older style it has a slightly longer hub because the center of the early brake disks are thinner than the newer ones. Your disk is the newer, thicker one. If it is mounted on an early wheel, the longer hub will have that disk slam up against the caliper plate (mount)
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« Last Edit: May 13, 2019, 04:46:30 AM by Chrisj CMA »
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indybobm
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« Reply #5 on: May 13, 2019, 05:27:07 AM » |
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If this is the front wheel, the problem is probably the clutch side disc. Easy solution. Loosen the lower pinch bolts on that side and push/pull the left fork in/out until the caliper is centered over the disk. Then tighten the pinch bolts. After loosening the left fork pinch bolts, it will be free to move over the big end of the axle. When done you should be able to place a straight edge on the outside of the fork and it should just touch the end of the axle.
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
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SCain
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« Reply #6 on: May 13, 2019, 05:33:39 AM » |
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So Carl, if the rear wheel is the older style it has a slightly longer hub because the center of the early brake disks are thinner than the newer ones. Your disk is the newer, thicker one. If it is mounted on an early wheel, the longer hub will have that disk slam up against the caliper plate (mount)
If this is the case like Jeff is saying, you can use a shim washer between the spacer and brake caliper, 1/16th" should do it. |
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CMA_Carl
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« Reply #7 on: June 15, 2019, 08:21:15 PM » |
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thanks for all the help. I took the rear wheel off and put new bearing and a new inter spacer before putting it back together. the inter spacer that i cleaned up on the grinder was .005 thousands short....? but when it was back together it was good. no more grinding on the brake mount.
however... now i have a slight wobble... old metzler with low miles and a new bridgestone on the rear. How much rear tire run out is too much... this happens daily on the kansas turnpike at 80+ mph. wind makes it worse... changing lanes across tar stipes is bad also... never had the problem before. Help!!
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sixlow
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« Reply #8 on: June 16, 2019, 05:49:38 AM » |
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Could be your shock bolt bushings. See if the bolts are centered. Do a search here for the green bushings made for the VTX as they are much better.
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CMA_Carl
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« Reply #9 on: June 16, 2019, 07:23:15 AM » |
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i have progressive shocks on the rear and front. there are no shock bushing issues with these. when i had stock shocks....150,000 miles ago i had those issues and fixed it with a aftermarket shock abs/rubber bushing. but that all went away with the progressive shock.
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The emperor has no clothes
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« Reply #10 on: June 16, 2019, 07:32:02 AM » |
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thanks for all the help. I took the rear wheel off and put new bearing and a new inter spacer before putting it back together. the inter spacer that i cleaned up on the grinder was .005 thousands short....? but when it was back together it was good. no more grinding on the brake mount.
however... now i have a slight wobble... old metzler with low miles and a new bridgestone on the rear. How much rear tire run out is too much... this happens daily on the kansas turnpike at 80+ mph. wind makes it worse... changing lanes across tar stipes is bad also... never had the problem before. Help!!
I'm assuming by "rear tire run out" you are referring to out of round ? If so, in my opinion any is too much. If you have some out of round with your tire, I'm sure that's what's giving you your issues at speed. |
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Steve K (IA)
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« Reply #11 on: June 17, 2019, 07:14:30 PM » |
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thanks for all the help. I took the rear wheel off and put new bearing and a new inter spacer before putting it back together. the inter spacer that i cleaned up on the grinder was .005 thousands short....? but when it was back together it was good. no more grinding on the brake mount.
however... now i have a slight wobble... old metzler with low miles and a new bridgestone on the rear. How much rear tire run out is too much... this happens daily on the kansas turnpike at 80+ mph. wind makes it worse... changing lanes across tar stipes is bad also... never had the problem before. Help!!
I'm assuming by "rear tire run out" you are referring to out of round ? If so, in my opinion any is too much. If you have some out of round with your tire, I'm sure that's what's giving you your issues at speed. "Run out" would be side to side movement...wobble, as the wheel turns. |
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 States I Have Ridden In |
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